To be my first build

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daddyzaring

Smoking Fanatic
Original poster
Nov 7, 2009
622
12
I am picking up this cabinet tomorrow.  I am thinking of just cutting out all but about 1/2" of the outer edge of each shelf and set expanded metal over them.  I will really need help with how to do the ventalation and everything else.

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looks like itll work pretty good once you get the ventilation worked out. As dennis said the metal is kind of thin so you may need to insulate it some if you cant get the heat to hold, but with a cabinet that size, you should be able to get the temp up as long as you have a decent burner.
 
I haven't seen it yet, but I figured it can't be much thinner then the Charcoal GOSM I have.
 
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Well I will be picking it up in a couple hours.  I am sure I will have lots of questions on how to do all of this.
 
Okay, just got it home.  It is alot bigger and heavier than it looks in the picture, W24"xD18"xH74".  It is big enough I could get all the way in it, and I am a fairly big guy. LOL

I'll try to get some pics later, but I will really need some help on how to do this guys.

Thank you,

Jeff
 
Can anyone tell me where I might be able to find some 1/2" heat resistant insalation, or what I should look for?  I think there would be plenty of space to insalate all three wals and the door.  I also will need to figure out how to do some kind of vents on the bottom as well.  I am figuring on making the chimney centered on the top back.  I think the two biggest things I could use help with is what type of insallation, where to find it, and how to do the air flow.  Also, I really wanted to do this as a charcoal smoker (just my prefence), but I am wondering if as big as this thing is it will be able to heat it up and keep it heated?

Would ribs, or most meats smoke okay hanging?
 
The large space isn't that big of a deal, once you get it warm its easy to maintain, to a certain extent. Is the door set-up in a manor that you will be able to seal it when it shuts?

I don't see why it wouldn't keep heat like a drum does. Insulating could be a fare amount of work if you are wanting to do it like the one BBQ Engineer built. I don't want to offer to many idea's until I see a pic of. That just makes it a little more easy to offer idea's.

I do see alot of guys using the old padded moving blankets to lay on top of there SFB rigs when the temps drop down. Maybe that's an option.

One thought I heard from a guy was that he hangs his meat. LOL I really didn't know what to say when he told me the way he knows his ribs are done is when they fall off the hook. It seems to me a guy might want to make a way that he would not have to pick the ribs up off the floor just to get them to the plate.
 
It seals up pretty good for the most part, the top left corner of the door is a little dented, and there is a  little more space down the hinged side then the rest, but don't think it's too bad.

I am thinking of putting some 1/4" insulation or some kind of padding along the insides of the walls and maybe door, and just enclosing it with some sheet metal.

I am also wondering if I need to strip the paint off, or if it will be alright to wait until it wears and/or burns off itself from usage. 

Here's some Pics.

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I think I remember a post here where a member insulated the outside of his GOSM with some kind of rigid board, if that interests you you might do a search in the propane section, sure would be a lot easier than doing the inside.  You might also think about having two doors, one for the smoker section and one for the burner section.

Gene
 
I don't know how that insulation would work, it might be a pain keeping it in place.

On MGNorCal's thread he used a rigid rock wool board that could be used inside and covered with sheet metal there is a link to where he bought it, just make sure the sheet metal isn't galvanized.

Gene
 
I am sure I can find some way to fasten it up, and I think it is cheaper then those panels.
 
What is your plan for a fire?

It looks like you could make it work with a charcoal basket (uds style) and maybe use one of the lower shelves for a diffuser plate to even out the heat.

Then the rest of the shelves could just be a piece of expanded between the sides of the cabinet.

I have never messed with the propane side of things but I would guess to say it wouldn't be much different then the basket route. The diffuser plate would probably still be the same.

The stack, I would think wouldn't have to be any larger then 3" max. That is unless you are trying to make it where the stack will exit the box down low. But then you have to make it like a reverse flow and get the smoke to the top and it flows back down and out.

Remember you don't want to control your heat from the stack, you want to do that from the vent holes for the fire.

I think I would use 1 of these, and about 2' of 2" emt for a stack. I know its galvanized but if you get the top hot enough to cause a problem you arnt going to eating that food anyways.

f0d4cd24_emt%20fitting.jpg


You could probably use a pipe nipple and the lock ring off these fittings for the air intake for the fire. I could be wrong but I think HF has 2" ball valves for like 10 bucks. These are the brass ones or home depot has pvc valves for about that same price. You can try this like a uds also, one thread with a cap and one with a valve.

I can see this build working out very nice, with not alot of expense.

You might save a little money by locating felt like the BGE uses for its lid, and use that to seal your door instead of the fireplace rope.

If you get somewhat of a plan and your materials my plasma will make pretty short work of the vent hole circles and cutting up the expanded grate. I would be glad to help ya out if needed.

One last thing is, maybe check out Asners scrap metal on James st in KCK. He has alot of crazy stuff like grate material, some of it even stainless. I know scrap is high right now but its still probably cheaper then new.
 
For the fire I was just figuring on making a charcoal basket, raised about 2-3".

How does a diffuser work, not to knowledgable there?  The shelves look like they're just bolted in.  They have nuts on them, but the bolt part has a round flat head.  The head looks kind of like a rivet.  Expanded metal is the way I was going with the shelves too, thought towards the top I am thinking of running a couple of rods accrossed with hooks, to hab meat or sausage from.

I perfer charcoal, but for awhile I was contemplating electric or gas, before I decided to insulate it.

I was thinking if I couldn't find something already made, maybe taking a piece of 4-6" duct pipe, and cutting two 2.5" pieced off, and sticking them though each side of the wall near the bottom, and some how mounting a couple of those round three hole dampers to them.

a44e2db7_bbq-air-damper-zink-open-3.jpg


 

As for the chimney I was thinking 3" off the top center of the back of it, with a vent cap. 

Does it matter how long it is?  Does the length make any difference?

As for the doors, the look like they will probably seal pretty good.  I was thinking at most I may use a little high temp silacone.

I think this will probably be my permanent back yard smoker.  I still want to eventually get a nice pull behind, but I think this will work real good for now, and then some.

I will definately have to check out Asners scrap metal, there a place here in Bonner I am planning to check too.  I was just planning on sawing the hole, but I may take you up on the help.  I am still need to figure out if when I put the inside together If I should rivet it together, or weld or have it welded together?
What is your plan for a fire?

It looks like you could make it work with a charcoal basket (uds style) and maybe use one of the lower shelves for a diffuser plate to even out the heat.

Then the rest of the shelves could just be a piece of expanded between the sides of the cabinet.

I have never messed with the propane side of things but I would guess to say it wouldn't be much different then the basket route. The diffuser plate would probably still be the same.

The stack, I would think wouldn't have to be any larger then 3" max. That is unless you are trying to make it where the stack will exit the box down low. But then you have to make it like a reverse flow and get the smoke to the top and it flows back down and out.

Remember you don't want to control your heat from the stack, you want to do that from the vent holes for the fire.

I think I would use 1 of these, and about 2' of 2" emt for a stack. I know its galvanized but if you get the top hot enough to cause a problem you arnt going to eating that food anyways.

f0d4cd24_emt%20fitting.jpg


You could probably use a pipe nipple and the lock ring off these fittings for the air intake for the fire. I could be wrong but I think HF has 2" ball valves for like 10 bucks. These are the brass ones or home depot has pvc valves for about that same price. You can try this like a uds also, one thread with a cap and one with a valve.

I can see this build working out very nice, with not alot of expense.

You might save a little money by locating felt like the BGE uses for its lid, and use that to seal your door instead of the fireplace rope.

If you get somewhat of a plan and your materials my plasma will make pretty short work of the vent hole circles and cutting up the expanded grate. I would be glad to help ya out if needed.

One last thing is, maybe check out Asners scrap metal on James st in KCK. He has alot of crazy stuff like grate material, some of it even stainless. I know scrap is high right now but its still probably cheaper then new.
 
A diffuser is just a piece of metal that acts like a tuning plate of sorts. If your fire was hot to one side of the basket the diffuser would help even out the heat. You could probally use a cookie sheet with a series of holes in it, may even be close to the right size.

For the rods near the top you can try to find metal brackets like what you would hang a closet cloths rod and use small bolts to mount them. Like these but metal.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

The lower vent, maybe you can buy or make a sheet metal piece just like the one pictured, cut the proper holes in the cabinet and use a machine screw and lock nut to snug the damper plate in place. I would choose the machine screw over a rivit so you can adjust how easy it will rotate.

The stack height will make a difference, you will have to start out with a set height, say 24" and test it out. The stack is a super easy change if you use the emt style fitting. IMO 24" is a good place to start.

Yes, the high temp RTV would be a good choice, just gotta be careful you don't glue the door shut. LMAO I almost did that with my offset. I put a bead down and put paint tape on top of it and closed my door most of the way then opened it back up and waited for it to dry.

When you get the shelving out you will know if you need bracing or not, the shelves may be helping to hold it square right now.

Things such as small angle to hold the shelves, you could rivit instead of bolting. Rivits that show from the outside offer a clean look over bolt heads.

A rain hat can be made for the stack with a little imagination and a pair of tin snips. Your just looking to keep the rain out, not prevent the smoke from making a grand exit.

In sitting here thinking,,,,, you might be wise to get the vents set up and the stack also, then do a test burn to see how fast the temps come up. What you are building is similar to a drum smoker and I can't remember where anyone has complained about poor results even in the winter. I could have missed that tho.
 
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