Help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
SMF is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

mcmelik

Smoke Blower
Original poster
Apr 28, 2009
146
10
Aurelia Iowa
I just finished my freezer build. I was seasoning it tonight and and had everything going great and all of a sudden my PID box started smoking.
I got it unpugged as fast as possible and took the top off and my solid state relay was toast. Nothing left at all. It had been running for about an hour and a half and was holding steady at about 245 -250 and all of a sudden it just burned up on me. I followed Smokednarwals wiring diagram and I don't know what happened it just when't up in flames. It looks like everything else is OK but it is going to have to take another solid state relay because the one i have is no longer with us, What the Hell did I do wrong??????
 
It could either be a short in what the SSR was controling or you did nothing wrong and it was simply the SSR itself that went bad.

In electronics we have what is called infant mortality. That is bad semiconductor components tend to fail early on if they are going to fail at all.

The componets that are most prone to failure are those like the triac device in the SSR that carry all the heavy load currents or final amplifier transistors in stereo amps, RF finals and such.

When those types of componets let go, because of where they are in the circuit, it's usually in a spectactur fashion because they are exposed to higher levels of power. Thats when all the magic smoke, that is the secret stuff that makes all electronics devices work, gets out and escapes into the atmospehere. When the magic smoke gets out, there is no fixing it so you must replace the component with one that has it's supply of magic smoke intact.

Get another relay and double check all your wiring and do a resistance check on the whatever the load was, be it a fan or heating element.

As stated make sure you are using the correct voltage rating for the power you are using. You can use 220VAC parts with 110VAC voltage but not the other way round. i.e. your supply voltage can never exceed the rating for the device but these days most power control devices are rated for worldwide supply voltage usage.
 
Thanks for the advice guys it is much appreciated. As I am no electrician.
I got a hold of the people at Arbur Instruments today and they gave me some good advice also. Very good people to work with by the way. I gave them my application and the told me what SSR will work. BUT one thing that they mentioned that no one else has is to make sure I have Hi temp grease between my SSR and my heat sink for proper installation. Which I didn't have. It is on order now along with a new SSR and heat sink. But my deer pastromi will probable have to get smoked on my CGSP instead of my new freezer build which I was SO looking forward to using. I guess that will have to wait till my next smoke. Thanks again
 
Wonder if the thermal paste used on computer heat sinks would work? The Arctic Silver stuff has great thermal conductivity for heat sinks - even on my 125W quad core AMD.
 
Yes it does. When you order the SSR and Heat sink you get the grease and mounting screws with it
 
AS the voltage ratting is very important so is the amp ratting... make sure that the heating element and the SSR have the same or the SSR is higher Rated.. Also insure that the PID is in a cool spot, maybe outside the box. this will help the temperature..

Good smoking...
 
SmokingMeatForums.com is reader supported and as an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.

Latest posts

Hot Threads

Clicky