WSM Mods

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Some people have done what is called the "notch mod". http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?350...m-Cajun-Bandit&p=350136&viewfull=1#post350136

I see the benefits this may have, as the probe(s) can be inserted / lifted with the food.

I'm totally tempted to try it, but I think I'll probably chicken out and go with the grommet mod.
I lift my top grate out with food on it and the probe left in all the time. The probe wires are long enough, I just pull the extra slack up and if need be just dangle the therm body for a minute or two while I tend to the lower rack. But I am just putting my top rack on my Weber Kettle that sits right next to my WSM so it isn't going far at all.
 
I did the notch on my 18.5 WSM and am happy I did. It solves the little problem with no cost except a bit of elbow grease (and my dremel tool).

Dale53
 
I thought of doing the mod above but instead I used my dremel cutoff wheel to make a little slit in the lip of my WSM wide enough for two probe wires and deep enough so the lid doesn't crimp them.  Works great and I don't have to fit any probes through a small hole or leave them inside the cooker when I take my meat off.
 
I just installed two coaxial cable connectors (double female for RG-6 coax, available at Radio Shack, Home Depot, etc.) per Petewoody's suggestion. After drilling out the plastic innards of the connector, I removed two of the bolts that hold the brackets for the top grate, increased the hole size in both the WSM side and the bracket to 3/8", and threaded the connectors through the holes. Secured the connectors using flat washers on both sides as well as appropriate sized nuts. The connectors are able to accept my temp probes that have 90 degree bends in them with no problem.  A great mod for only a couple of bucks and no extra holes in the WSM.
 
I've noticed only about 2 or 3 modifications for the Weber Smokey Mountain Smokers for hanging meat inside the smoker. Unfortunately those methods require a CNC machine or a torch of some sort for welding. Neither of which I have nor are they economical for me. So I took a different approach and figured if an grill grate can hold multiple cuts of meat then I can hang multiple pieces from a grate. Here's what I did to modify my 18.5" WSM.

Tools you'll need
  • Cordless Drill
  • 1/4" drill bit
  • 1/2" six flute countersink
  • Needle nose pliers 
  • Regular or Lineman's pliers
  • Pencil
  • Level (optional)
  • Socket wrench
  • Allen wrench
  • Nail set.
Materials
  • 10.5" grill grate
  • 1/4" Rubber Lined Clamps (4)
  • Socket Cap Screws/Smooth 1/4-20-7/8" (4)
  • 1/4"-20 hex nut (4)
Instructions

I used the level to help me figure out what would approximately be level for the grill grate inside the lid of my WSM. Remember to straddle the lid thermometer when drawing the line around the inside so you know roughly where you want the grill grate to sit in it. I removed the rubber lining on the 1/4" clamps and then using the lineman's pliers I straightened my clamps out so I could re-bend them around the grill grate. I did this to the remaining 3 clamps. With the grate set in place and folding the clamps so they sit against the lid I used a punch to dimple the lid so the drill bit didn't walk on me.  I drilled the first hole from the inside of the lid. Then switched to the counter sink and used it to de-bur the metal on the outside so that the socket cap screw would sit flush. Then using a socket cap screw I set it through the new hole and clamp holes and then threaded the hex nut finger tight. From there I proceeded to do the remaining three holes. Using the socket wrench  and allen wrench I tightened the hex nut...not the socket cap screw. I wanted to avoid scaring the outside finish. The end result looks like the following. Now I can use short meat hooks or bacon hangers.


The whole setup up.


Closer inspection of the outside of the lid. We can see the 4 Socket cap screws.


The inside of the lid...lots of room its up pretty high. Also my top grate is removed for space.


Close up of the finished mod. Now hang the meat from the grate as needed.

There is approximately 16 to 18 inches of space between the 2.

Thanks.
 
I changed my mind and went for the notch. With a metal 4-inch disc on my cordless drill, took me about 7 minutes. The wires have enough room to slide when in the notch. Onward, Ho !
 
I've noticed only about 2 or 3 modifications for the Weber Smokey Mountain Smokers for hanging meat inside the smoker. Unfortunately those methods require a CNC machine or a torch of some sort for welding. Neither of which I have nor are they economical for me. So I took a different approach and figured if an grill grate can hold multiple cuts of meat then I can hang multiple pieces from a grate. Here's what I did to modify my 18.5" WSM.

Tools you'll need
  • Cordless Drill
  • 1/4" drill bit
  • 1/2" six flute countersink
  • Needle nose pliers 
  • Regular or Lineman's pliers
  • Pencil
  • Level (optional)
  • Socket wrench
  • Allen wrench
  • Nail set.

Materials
  • 10.5" grill grate
  • 1/4" Rubber Lined Clamps (4)
  • Socket Cap Screws/Smooth 1/4-20-7/8" (4)
  • 1/4"-20 hex nut (4)

Instructions
I used the level to help me figure out what would approximately be level for the grill grate inside the lid of my WSM. Remember to straddle the lid thermometer when drawing the line around the inside so you know roughly where you want the grill grate to sit in it. I removed the rubber lining on the 1/4" clamps and then using the lineman's pliers I straightened my clamps out so I could re-bend them around the grill grate. I did this to the remaining 3 clamps. With the grate set in place and folding the clamps so they sit against the lid I used a punch to dimple the lid so the drill bit didn't walk on me.  I drilled the first hole from the inside of the lid. Then switched to the counter sink and used it to de-bur the metal on the outside so that the socket cap screw would sit flush. Then using a socket cap screw I set it through the new hole and clamp holes and then threaded the hex nut finger tight. From there I proceeded to do the remaining three holes. Using the socket wrench  and allen wrench I tightened the hex nut...not the socket cap screw. I wanted to avoid scaring the outside finish. The end result looks like the following. Now I can use short meat hooks or bacon hangers.



The whole setup up.


Closer inspection of the outside of the lid. We can see the 4 Socket cap screws.


The inside of the lid...lots of room its up pretty high. Also my top grate is removed for space.


Close up of the finished mod. Now hang the meat from the grate as needed.

There is approximately 16 to 18 inches of space between the 2.

Thanks.

That is a fantastic idea!
 
I changed my mind and went for the notch. With a metal 4-inch disc on my cordless drill, took me about 7 minutes. The wires have enough room to slide when in the notch. Onward, Ho !

You won't be disappointed. I went from the pass through tube to the notch and it is much nicer to use now. I am so glad I did the switch.
 
Quick update for my WSM friends. Got my bacon hangers and meat hooks. They fit like a charm. ALSO of more interest here is I know others have used multipled WSM bodies to stack for more room. This great...but not overly practical.  Anyways I found this site that has created a Stacker body expansion. I figure for $33.00 its worth a shot. I'll let you know if its worth it.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Another update on this idea is it works as long as you have the stacker expansion so that the meat thermometer can be inserted AND also 8 lbs of meat hung from the lid is pretty heavy to be holding one handed. Beyond that it works perfectly fine with the bacon hangers.
 
Hi guys!

Thanks for the lamp idea! I did that last night and it worked out perfectly!

Final results:


Another shot with the lid on:


Thanks again for the great idea! 
biggrin.gif
 
At first I drilled a hole and installed a grommet as discussed in previous posts. After doing that I decided to use the notch method. I cut a notch with my Dremel tool and a cut-off wheel.

My notch is not as neat as the one pictured in a previous post but it works perfectly.  I  install a removable bracket in the hole I drilled previously to hang my Maverick ET 732 transmitter.

Remember the first rule of Dremel tools: "There's no problem that can't be made worse by using a Dremel tool."

Thanks to all for your comments.
 
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