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diff between 30" and 40" MES - Page 2

post #21 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Foster View Post

I don't get it. Even my two slice toaster has more wattage than these things do. My toaster oven even more.

 

If I ever went electic, (not very likely) the first thing I'd do is get some elements from a garge sale toaster oven or two or something along those lines and put some balls in the thing. Then I'd add a PID controller to kept temperature under tight control.



You might want to check and see what the amp draw on your toaster is.  I bet it is a lot less than that of the MES Smoker.

 

This is from the Owners Manual...

 

Quote:

WARNINGS & IMPORTANT SAFEGUARDS continued


• Avoid bumping or impacting electric smoker.
• Never move electric smoker when in use. Allow electric smoker to cool completely before moving or
storing.
• Be careful when removing food from electric smoker. All surfaces are HOT and may cause burns. Use
protective gloves or long, sturdy cooking tools.
• Do not cover cooking racks with metal foil. This will trap heat and cause severe damage to electric smoker.
• Drip tray is only for the bottom of electric smoker. Do not put drip tray on cooking racks this may damage
electric smoker.
• Wood chip bowl is HOT when electric smoker is in use. Use caution when adding wood.
• To disconnect, turn controller “OFF” then remove plug from outlet.
• Remove plug from outlet when the appliance is not in use, before putting on or taking off parts, and before
cleaning. Allow to cool before handling.
• Dispose of cold ashes by placing them in aluminum foil, soaking with water and discarding in a
non-combustible container.
• Do not store electric smoker with HOT ashes inside unit. Store only when all surfaces are cold.
• Accessory attachments not supplied by Masterbuilt Manufacturing, Inc. are not recommended and may
cause injury.
• Never use electric smoker for anything other than its intended purpose. This unit is not for commercial use.
• Always use electric smoker in accordance with all applicable local, state and federal fire codes.
Longer extension cords are available and may be used if care is exercised in their use.
• If a longer extension cord is used the marked rating should be at least as great as the electrical rating of the appliance.
• The extension cord must be a grounding -type 3-wire cord.
• Outdoor extension cords must be used with outdoor use products and are marked with suffix "W" and with the statement "Suitable for Use with Outdoor Appliances.
• CAUTION - To reduce the risk of electric shock, keep extension cord connection dry and off the ground.

• Extreme caution must be used when moving an appliance containing hot liquids.
• Do not clean this product with a water spray or the like.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
Combustion by-product produced when using this product contains
chemicals known to the State of California to cause birth defects,
other reproductive harm, or cancer.
The materials used in this product may contain lead a chemical known to the State of
California to cause birth defects and other reproductive harm.

post #22 of 25

I don't need to do that although I do have the meters to do it. The power consumption is printed right on the bottom per UL standards and I think the NEC too. Turn any appliance over or look on the back for the power consumption to be stamped or printed somewhere on the unit. It's usually in watts so divide just by 120 or 115 to get the approximate current draw in amps. Some applicances give consumption in VA but that is usually for computers, TVs and the like or things that present an asymetric or non sinusoidal load like a switching power supply. Heating elements pretty much present a pure resistance so they give consumpiton in watts.

1200 watts is a good one but my understanding is that most of them are shipping with only 800 watt elements.  

post #23 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Foster View Post

I don't need to do that although I do have the meters to do it. The power consumption is printed right on the bottom per UL standards and I think the NEC too. Turn any appliance over or look on the back for the power consumption to be stamped or printed somewhere on the unit. It's usually in watts so divide just by 120 or 115 to get the approximate current draw in amps. Some applicances give consumption in VA but that is usually for computers, TVs and the like or things that present an asymetric or non sinusoidal load like a switching power supply. Heating elements pretty much present a pure resistance so they give consumpiton in watts.

1200 watts is a good one but my understanding is that most of them are shipping with only 800 watt elements.  



All of the new ones have 1200 watt elements.  If it is 800 or less it is not a current model.

post #24 of 25

That's good to know. I thought it was the other way around. Some things do get better afterall.

post #25 of 25

I purchased the 40" MES w/1200 watt element in December, and smoked all thru the cold winter months.  Heat up and recovery was very fast when outside temps were 20*F.  For the $$$, you can't beat the benefits of the MES.  The clerk at Cabelas was trying to get me to buy the same $600 Bradley Beer-B-Q just sold. 

 

Pony up the $299, get the extended warranty and you won't be sorry!!!

 

 

Todd

No Creosote! A-Maze-N Smokers

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