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door gasket

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
So I've got my smoker almost all the way complete the only prob I'm haveing is that when I burned out the propane tank some of the curve in my door was lost and now does not match the radius of the tank.
I've tried to bend it back but I'm haveing no luck.
Does anyone know where I can find some compressable gasket to line the edge of the tank so when the door shuts it seals it.
I've seen people use fiberglass rope to seal but not sure if that will work since it doesn't compress very much.
I'm thinking maybe a silicone would hold up to the heat?
post #2 of 9
Hogwart, I hope you get really good answers because I am having the same problem. Have you tried heating the door and using a chain and jack or a hammer. To use the chain hook the chain to something sturdy so that it will lay across the door where it needs bent , put the jack between the door and the chain and get it tight , heat the door with a torch and work the jack. I dont know if it will work but I am going to try it this weekend.
post #3 of 9
The best bet given the situation that you have described is a compresable foam from Allied Kenco:

Smoke House Door Gasket
Simply glue this gasket to your smoke house door or door frame using Hi Temp Silicon Red Sponge Style
1" Wide
1/4" Thick
Good up to 500 degrees F.
Sold by the foot in blocks of 5 ft. (5,10,15,20,or 25 ft)

You can check it out at this link: http://www.alliedkenco.com/catalog/p...oducts_id/2677
post #4 of 9
Instead of or in addition to, couldn't you use one of these clamps on each side of the door to hold down? You can get them from Harbor Freight for $4.99 each. This is what Meadow Creek uses on their smokers and I plan on using on mine. Just a thought.

post #5 of 9
Thread Starter 
Ok I got the curve back on my door.
at work yesterday I saw a bunch of 3/4 inch all thread with nuts on it being thrown in the trash so I grabbed a couple of them.
I took the lid completely off turned it upside down and welded some thick square washers on the edge of the lid, ran the all thread through them then wrenched it down.
Had to squeeze the edges of my door together 2 inches just to put a 1/4 inch bend back in it once I released the pressure. fits like a glove now.

post #6 of 9
Hogwart,Was your door 3/8" thick. Was wondering if that would work for mine?
post #7 of 9

I know this thread is old but this is still xlnt information on how to fix a sprung door.


I am having the same problem..... the door sprung. I will use this technique to fix mine as well. I however will not be taking the door off or welding anything to it. I will bend some 1/4 " plate into a wide V shape and then tighten down on the nuts. This way I can easily take it back apart to check the fit. 

post #8 of 9
I was just looking at my highlift off road jack (tractor jack)as a solution.

Although I have a porta power type hydrolic ram also.

I have a jack mate that can be used on the hi lift to make it a spreader bar (for auto rescue)or a giant clamp, thought that could be of use also.
post #9 of 9

Harbor Freight has some 3/4 Pipe clamps that would work as well, possibly without welding anything to the door or taking it off.  As long as the lip of the clamp does not slip off.



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