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new build.. I NEED SOME HELP!!!!!!!!

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
OK guys I'm trying to get this finished in time to cook up 60 lbs of pork spare ribs for the Husker game on sat... HELP ME OUT!! What I'm trying to figure out is how I should cut my baffle. Please get me as much input as you can.. My cooking space is 2088 sq in and the baffle is the same size only 2 in above the bottom of the grill.. What I need to figure where, how big, and how far apart to cut the holes.

[ I have 2088 inches of cooking space

[you can see how we are trying to make the baffle work.. its 2" from the bottom of the cooker and covers the whole floor

If you look at the top of the smoke box you can see the baffle. The piece with the 2 bolts sits right on top of the baffle. the same with the pic below.


The box is recessed 6" back into the cooker.. If you want any more pics or need any info please let me know and i will get it.. any help or input would great guys.. i really want to post some kick ass QVIEW next weekend!!
post #2 of 15
Wow that is heavy duty, those cooking grates will support the weight you put on them. Best suggestion I have to offer for for the baffle is I would sit back and tip a few of those Bud Lights, the answer is in the can. Works for me anyways !!!

Look forward to updates of your project.....
post #3 of 15
I want to offer suggestions,, but I am not sure how that fire box fits into the main chamber.
post #4 of 15
Im with rio grande on this one. Ive been a fabricator for over 20 years, but Im not following what you want done. Maybe some different pics and some different angels. I would be happy to offer and advice.
post #5 of 15
I have to say I am kind of at a loss too. Are you putting a box on top for the smoke chamber, and the piece thats cut at an angle on the end going to be the firebox when done? If you can give some dimensions of the final product it would help. There are several calculaters out there that might help.
post #6 of 15
The cooking grates will sure hold 60# of ribs, looks like it would handle Hogzilla with ease...icon_mrgreen.gif
post #7 of 15
Hey Elwood,

I remember seeing this before in this post...


My initial thoughts are this...

The baffle plate completely covers the floor, and you are wanting to cut holes in the floor to allow heat and smoke into the upper chamber. In a typical reverse flow situation, the baffle plate extends almost to the end opposite the firebox, and the smoke/heat enters the smoker chamber at the space that you left open, and then REVERSES FLOW going across the meat. What you are attempting to do is more of a modified tuning plate design if you are going to cut holes in the baffle plate. This makes me question which side is your smoke stack / outlet?

If your smoke stack is on the same side as the firebox, by cutting holes in the baffle plate short of the end opposite the firebox, you might not get proper flow and temp at that end?? Just a thought. I am a little concerned that 2" for flow under the baffle plate might not be large enough for flow. Also, can you give us some dimensions on the firebox? It might need a bit more height, but I am guessing based on pictures. Actual dimensions may be just fine!

It sure promises to be a kick (pork) Butt smoker when it is finished. Keep posting pics, I love to see builds come together, and there is certainly a wealth of people here to help out. Heavy duty is good! PDT_Armataz_01_37.gif
post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 
ive got some more pics and a diagram to show what we are trying to do.

this is what we are trying to do... a reverse flow.. what we are trying to figure out is if our baffle is to low in the cooker and how should we cut the vent in it?? only one across the whole thing at the end? we are new to building and are figuring it at as we go.. this whole thing has been done in less than a month and with a budget of less than $5oo.00 including the 60lbs. of ribs for Saturday.. so yes we did use rebar and yes it will hold a ENTIRE COW!!!! but it was cheep and available and you never know when you might want to cook a whole cow..

This is how we have the fire box fit to the smoker box

if you remove the 2 pieces of steel that you see bolted down you would be looking into the fire box

this would be the hole
any more ?'s
post #9 of 15
Ok, that helps a bit. Let me see if I got it. Those angle iron tabs welded in, those are going to hold the baffle/floor?. And the piece with the 2 bolts is up against the firebox? You want the heat and smoke to travel under the baffle that would be held up by the small piece of angle iron right? Towards the other end, opposite of the firebox? Let me make sure I am right before I go any further.
post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 


that would be the plan.. as im reading more things on here im starting to think that i need to raise the baffle/floor up more to get more air flowing...
post #11 of 15
Yes, I agree with BBQengineer, the floor should be raised. I would say just weld on the same pieces of angle on top of the ones that are there, doubling the height. When you say how big and where to cut the holes, are you talking about the holes that the heat and smoke will go thru to reach the grates and meat above? Thanks BBQ Engineer, that link helped. I remember now seeing that post.

Actually, now that I think about it, why not raise the floor to the top of that cut out for the firebox. That way, you are maximizing your heat, and if you don't need allot of heat, you can always tone it down with the draft, but if you do need the extra heat, you would have it, does that make sense?
post #12 of 15
I am assuming that you want the holes for the smoke and heat to go thru. Why not just shorten the baffle/floor on the opposite end of the firebox, say about 2-3 inches from the end and let the heat and smoke wrap around it. I am including a diagram I just made. This is my first time doing this so I don't know if it will turn out. I apologize in advance if it does not.

post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
im liking you ideas.. Scott you were right we should have moved it up! my only question is how consistent is the heat going to be at the grates? wouldn't the ends be hot spots?
post #14 of 15
The thicker the floor/baffle, the more even the heat will be in the chamber, meaning that the thicker of steel you have, the more it will absorb and radiate it out. It will also bring the temps back to where you want them quicker when you open the doors to check on things. You will still have some hotter spots, on the baffle right next to the firebox, and at the opposite end where the smoke/heat wraps around the baffle on its way to the meat. But hotter and cooler spots can be advantages to a degree. If you are smoking a larger chunk and a smaller item, you arrange them accordingly. The larger meat item on the warmer areas and the smaller items on the less warmer areas, that way you can get things to finish cooking around the same times. Its a live and learn kinda thing. When I made my reverse flow, I had a real hot spot opposite end of the firebox. I welded a lip that hung below the baffle, thus keeping the heat under the baffle longer and created an even temp throughout.
post #15 of 15

I agree with Meathunter on the height of the baffle plate and the relation of the baffle plate to the top of the firebox. Also, as a general rule of thumb, the open space for the heat and smoke to wrap around the baffle plate should be equal to the height...for instance if it is 4" off the floor, then leave 4" at the end open. I like Meathunter's idea of welding a rim on the bottom to keep the heat under the plate longer and minimize side to side deviations. When you get your rig built, you might also toy with the level of the smoker to control heat and draft. I am just starting to learn how a big trailer mounted reverse flow will behave in relation to subtle inputs, but it will give you some flexibility to change the operation and temperature profiles.

Good luck and keep us posted!

On Edit: Meathunter...pretty good graphic you roughed out...that should tell the tale! PDT_Armataz_01_37.gif
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