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Just a couple UDS questions

post #1 of 16
Thread Starter 
Alright, just a couple of UDS questions before I start drilling.

1) I bought galvanized nipples for my intakes. Is this going to be a problem? I have heard it go both ways.

2) What's the deal with the temps varying so much in these things? What and where is the best place for a side thermo to give me the most accurate temps? I only have one digital and I need that for meat.

3) Are these really that hard to get control of the temps with? Seems like there are some major issues with this.

4) Where can I find the plans for the no-weld charcoal basket?

Thank you guys very much.
post #2 of 16
Your welcome. cool.gif
post #3 of 16
Thread Starter 
What do you mean learn the temps of the grill? Sorry for such simple minded questions but I feel as if I'm going on my first date with this UDS stuff. Would you mind giving me the plans or a good way of finding them for the basket?

What is the best way to learn how to control the temps? I'm goin going to have 3-3/4" holes with plugs and 1-3/4" with valve
post #4 of 16

No weld basket

No weld drum basket
post #5 of 16
as long as you leave the lid on temp control is way easy.
post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 
Hey thank Bubba and phreak. My drum is being brought to my house this sunday so I'm going to try and get it all built up monday. Any good is it worth buying a thermo with a long stem on it for the side thermo? Know anywhere to get cheap grates?
post #7 of 16
And be careful and patient when you're bringing it up to temp.

post #8 of 16
Thread Starter 
I found a lid at the local hardware store. It has some red paint (?) on the underside. How do I get that off? I'm assuming it needs to come off before I put food under it. Also I bought some 3/4 nipple for my intakes. I do not have a welder. Does anyone know if a 1" hole drilled into the drum will allow me to thread the nipple in?
post #9 of 16
You can either grind the lid clean or burn it off. Yes a one inch hole will let you thread the nipples in. I also used some conduit nuts to help keep the nipples in place.
post #10 of 16
very true...
post #11 of 16
Be careful burning the paint off the lid. If the lid is thin it may warp then it won't seal well, which is important for them to hold stable temps. A wirewheel on a drill should make short work of taking the paint off.

post #12 of 16
I just found out that I can't start a nuclear reaction to get a nice hot basket. My next cook will be with the slow and patient start. I did not mean to cause any confusion about temp stability in my other post.
post #13 of 16
Thread Starter 
I got ya, I probably read way too far into also. I'm just very cautious about relying on my uds because I've never seen one outside of pictures much less used one. I do now have a choice between using a barell lid or taking my weber lid off when using my uds. Which is better? What's the best/easiest way to vent the barell lid. i know you can't control it if you jus drill holes in it but didn't know if that matters.
post #14 of 16
Depends. biggrin.gif The Weber lid will give you more head room for doing taller things like beer can chicken or even the ability to add another rack. But it may not seal as well if it doesn't fit over the lip of the barrel which may lead to temp control issues.

The best way to use the Weber lid that I have seen is BBQ Bubba's method of cutting the top 2" from the bottom of a Weber kettle and mounting it inside the drum. Then the Weber lid fits perfectly.

That's what I want to do as soon as I find a "donor" Weber kettle. Hope Bubba doesn't mind that I used his picture . . . again.

The flat lids work fine and many people use them.

I don't know about best, but the easiest way is to use the bung holes if they exist. I guess the next easiest way is to drill eight 1/2" holes around the top of the lid.

You shouldn't have to close the vent holes during a cook -- in fact, I don't think you would want to. But if you did, you could just use some flexible refrigerator magnets. The only time you would really want to close them is at the end of a cook to snuff out the fire and save the remaining charcoal. But if your drum does not have any leaks, this is not necessary. You can just close the intakes and the fire goes out pretty quickly.

Hope this helps.

post #15 of 16
Nice post Dave, you ARE becoming the drum master! cool.gif
post #16 of 16
Just repeating what I've learned. I had good instructors. biggrin.gif

Hope you don't mind me using your pics.

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