Kill FireAntsThe War on FireAnts
Fireant control can be time consuming and costly. But, hey, this is war!
There are several methods to kill fire ants, some take a few hours, others a few weeks or months. The most important thing to remember when dealing with fireants is to be patient. And make sure you treat or remove all the mounds because if you miss even one young mound, they'll win. Re-infestation will occur in less than a year. Read on to find a fire ant killer.Natural Fire Ant ControlLye
An inexpensive, environmentally safe, natural fire ant killer is to melt Â½ bar of lye soap in 5 gallons of water. Wear rubber gloves, protect your eyes and be careful handling the lye as it is highly caustic and can cause extreme burns. Pour this solution in a circle around the ant mound to prevent ants from escaping, then stir them up and drench them thoroughly. This will kill the ants instantly without polluting your garden or harming pets.Boiling Water
Pouring boiling water on a colony has been recommended as a non-chemical solution to get rid of fireants. But if it does not kill the queen, it will not eliminate the colony.
To use boiling water as a method, start with a sunny, cool day when the ants are most active. Pour about 3 gallons of truly boiling water slowly over the mound. Some ants can survive up to 14 days underwater, so the key word here is boiling.
The ants die from being scorched, not drowned. But be careful not to scald yourself! Try to collapse as much of the mound as possible while pouring. The ants, their larvae, and their stored food are all scalded and dead within seconds.Drowning Them
Although this is not completely effective, it may help when only one or two mounds are found. Simply dig up the colony and dump it into a five gallon bucket filled with hot soapy water and let it sit for 24 hours. The temperature of the water and soap will hopefully kill them. Caution:
Disturbing the nest will cause the ants to swarm their invader, take caution to prevent being stung.Drenches for FireAnts
Mound drenches are insecticides diluted with water and then trickled down through the mound. They must come in contact with most of the ants, especially the queen, or they are not effective. Ants contacted by the drench die in less than 24 hours. It is best to use drenches in the spring and fall, when temperatures are between 70 and 85 F. In the hot summer months, ants stay deep in their mounds and are hard to reach with liquid insecticides.
Drenches should be used when there is a high risk of human contact or when fireants have invaded home lawns, school grounds, parks and other areas frequented by people.FireAnt Bait
To avoid harming pets and children, poison fire ant bait must be used carefully inside the home and outside in the yard. Baits are insecticides that have been mixed with an ant attractant. Worker ants carry the bait back to the mound and share it with the colony and the queen. Although it is effective in killing the queen, baits may take several weeks before the colony finally dies off.
Place baits in corners, under cabinets, and in closets. Some examples of baits would be mixing boric acid (15% by volume) in peanut butter and placing it in a jar lid. Equal parts of borax and granulated sugar, or a borax and corn syrup mixture. Be sure to frequently refill the mixture and keep it away from high temperatures, high humidity, and intense sunlight. Baits can be rendered ineffective under these conditions.
Bait can also be spread around the nest in a circle. Spread it in a 1-3 foot circle, starting from the base of the mound. Spread it sparsely. If it is too concentrated, it will actually repel the ants.
Ants do not appreciate it when people dump things on their home. (Well, excuse me!) It's always good to remember when using an ant bait, do not dump the product directly on the mound or nest, broadcast it around and in other areas where ants are seen foraging for food.Grits
There is a theory that fireants will eat grits, the grits will swell up inside their bellies and then the ants will explode. Boom! This is in fact false, and an old wives tale. Ants cannot eat solid foods, and therefore this theory does not work.
When people dump grits onto or near ant mounds, the ants do not die from the grits, they simple build another door (mound) to their colony, deserting the one covered with the grits.Rice
Don't bother with this one, either. See Grits above.Gasoline
This method consists of pouring gasoline on the mound and often times lighting it on fire. This method, aside from the obvious hazard to you from an explosion, is illegal and environmentally hazardous, and it is inefficient and ill-advised. It poses a risk of ground and surface water contamination that is irreversible. Not to mention, in warm, dry environments, you find yourself causing more damage than anticipated (i.e., grass fires).Household Products
Many home products, such as chlorine bleach, ammonia, various detergents, plaster of paris, drain cleaners and so on are reputed as wonderful for fire ant management. Few, if any of these are effective for killing fire ants, and most pose a greater threat to pets, children, wildlife, and groundwater. In addition, it is illegal to use these products in a manner inconsistent with their labeling â€“ they are not labeled for control of any type of pest.
gas does work..but I guess it works on everthing else also..
Oh did ya try the fire and ridance prayer.