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What type of ad-hoc temp control to add to my ECB

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
Hey folks, I have a ECB electric that gets to about 250F. My problem is that I need to be able to control that temp. Anyone have suggestions on a type of control to add to my little smoke 'n grill? BTW, I plan on upgrading once I have more experience.
post #2 of 24
If your talking about a Brinkman electric smoker, yes, top temp is 240-250 range...........why would you want to go any higher??
No mod's for that unit that i know of, iv'e seen mod's to lower the temp but never raise.
post #3 of 24
There will be a master electrician thru here soon, so hang in there. (I sure aint one!!!!) I had a buddy of mine install a dial, from an electric skillet, on my ECB about 8 yrs ago ........ that thing is long gone, but someone will give you details on that kind of controller/stat.
post #4 of 24
what bubba said..........

is he trying to get LOWER temps maybe?

more info dude..........
post #5 of 24
Thread Starter 
Yup. Want to lower it at will. So I can do a cold smoke or just smoke at 200F or so. Am I wasting my time?
post #6 of 24
I dont think so. Get below 200 and do some jerky. icon_mrgreen.gif
post #7 of 24
and cheese.......and cold smoke buckboard bacon, .like i am doing at the moment
post #8 of 24
pretty sure you can add a rheostat or potentiometer in line to better control temps...........pretty sure a electrician is coming alone soon.......
post #9 of 24
Let me know how that goes if it's doable!!PDT_Armataz_01_34.gif
post #10 of 24
Thread Starter 
Exactly and some jerky too. I tried to smoke some jerky last weekend but it came out dry. Tasted sort of like xtra well done steak instead of jerky. I figured it was because of the temp being too high. So, again, anyone have any suggestions on where to get some type of temp control box or something?
post #11 of 24
hang in there......its coming.........
post #12 of 24
Brentman, you need to add some "resistance" to your heating element/coil, a rheostat would be a good choice, but would be costy to get one heavy enough to handle the load. Graingers most likely have them,or you could do a search to get some ideas. i may have something that i "found" from a project that would work, if i do, might be able to ship it to you. i will look
post #13 of 24
Thread Starter 
I love this forum. Hey, if you do, let me know, I can send you a label as I have a FedEx account. If not, no worries.
post #14 of 24

I'm no expert but....

I started some research on this topic some time ago, and found that it would be expensive and not very safe to create a resistive load to reduce the heat of the element. What I found is that it is better to handle the process just like your electric oven. You need a "bang bang" circuit. This requires something to measure the temperature, and relay device with a tolerance range. When the actual temperature exceed the high tolerance, the power to the element is switched off. When it goes below the low tolerence, it turns it on.

Now I can't help you out with a hardware version (If Cheech is still around, he is the man and can tell you what he did). I'm experimenting with a software version that turns a solid state relay on and off from my control program for my charcoal smoker; still experimenting though.

post #15 of 24
I know some propane company's used to cary reostats. They were used to control blower motor speed on self containted gas log inserts. You plugged the -stat into the wall and then plugged the cord for the appliance into it. Might check with some of them.
post #16 of 24
If i was trying to do this i would....

Go to wally world(walMart) Buy a cheap toaster oven... take it apart and use the parts from the temperature control.... wire it in... Just me...

Make a little box to mount it in....
post #17 of 24
Please do tell why you feel this way, there is a lot of products out there useing reostsats, be it cookers/smokers/ genral heating devices.
Not sure about your Gang Bang controler being practical or even cost effective to applications that may be defined on this site

post #18 of 24
I have a temp control unit from an old griddle that I planned on using for this exact thing. I have yet to get around to it though. The reason why is because I have had better luck with opening the side door to let heat out.

I drilled a small hole just under the top grate and have a temp probe sticking through it to monitor the temp just below the grate. Then I open and close the door to regulate the temp. It isn't perfect, but it gets the temps down where I want them.
post #19 of 24
Buzz, you're absolutely right about mine being practical. It's practical for me, only because I already have the I/O board ($80), and the relay is only another $5

The reason I feel as I stated above is that the products out there using reostats typically don't operate at the temperatures or wattage that the elements in an electric Q require. Not saying it can't be done, but I chose not to for safety reasons. Anything that can create enough resistance to keep the element at full power could eventually heat up and possibly short out.

Again, I'm not saying it can't be done so I'm up for talking about the details with anyone who has some ideas. Nice topic!
post #20 of 24
It's not like the rheo would be takeing full wattage, but more so shaving off "used" amprage to the element/coil. and it is also widely used in the manufactureing industry .
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