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So would this work?

post #1 of 25
Thread Starter 
Alright, my Toastmaster griddle has finally gone to the great griddle resting place in the sky. But I kept the temperature control back in hopes of possibly adding this to my Brinkman for better temperature control than I get by just plugging the unit in.

I can provide pictures of the temp control if necessary. It is basically a 110 volt unit that has a dial on it, a temperature probe and two electrical "slots" where the element on the griddle slipped into.

Now I don't know jack about resistance, voltage, amps and such. In fact, electrical work in general is very intimidating to me. But I do know the basic concepts that are going on inside of the temperature control. If I modify my Brinkman to route power through this control do I need to be worried about ohms, amps and other scary electrical stuff? Of course, I would mount the temp probe somewhere inside the tank, preferrably near the upper rack since I use that one most often.

I know that this isn't the type of thread you might be comfortable replying to, but I would value any advice you have. I would like to gain the upper hand with this unit for those hot Kansas days that add an extra 30 degrees to the smoker.

Thanks all!

post #2 of 25
I know that this isn't the type of thread you might be comfortable replying to, but I would value any advice you have. I would like to gain the upper hand with this unit for those hot Kansas days that add an extra 30 degrees to the smoker.
How bout cookin in the shade?PDT_Armataz_01_25.gif
post #3 of 25
Friend I can't tell you anything about an electric smoker I'm a wood burner myself but we do have a few electric guys on here that should be along shortly to help you out.
post #4 of 25
Aj I don't see why that wouldn't work but it would take some doing. You might take the temp control apart to see how it is put together. What kind of temps are you getting now?
Could you take the temp control apart and take pics of it? That way we can see what is going on.
post #5 of 25
IMHO I think it might be risky at best. It's designed for controling a heat source that retains heat (the metal pan) with the aid of the food your cooking unlike the electric coil that's on the smokers which dispurses heat through the air. I think it might burn up really quickly and hopefully not start a fire. Sounds like a potential fire hazard to me hon.

I haven't done much electrical/electronic stuff for many years and I am admittedly very conserative when I tinker. Be careful!
post #6 of 25
From the sounds of it, it looks like all you're doing is putting a variable resistor in the path of the voltage. as all household outlets work off of 110V you're safe there. post some pics and I could help you further. If you hook it up right you should be ready for your next smoke in no time.

Again, post some pics and I can help you out more. I knew 2 years of military electronics training would go to good use someday.PDT_Armataz_01_28.gif
post #7 of 25
Thread Starter 

Some pics

Here are some pictures of the element.
post #8 of 25
Thread Starter 
That is in the shade!
post #9 of 25
oh...hmm...It would take some doing but the only way i can think of to make it work would be to take out the probe, grab your soldering iron, and wire the heating element into the knob. the only problem is like what Debi said, the griddle was heated to a certain surface temperature, and the application you are modifying it to will be for heat radiation. In that case, the mod will work to the best of my knowlege, but you better grab a sharpie and black out those graduations cause they won't be any use to you anymore.
post #10 of 25

Electrical dohickey

It sounds alot like a reostat control for say an electric frying pan. If you have an appliance repair/parts store you could match up a heating element/coil that would most likley be easily attached inside your smoker.
post #11 of 25
Considering it's design purpose I'd expect it to fry itself before it put out enough heat to warm a smoker.
post #12 of 25

temp control

Hey everyone.

That temp control will work. I made one for my little cheif using a temp control from an electric frying pan. I just opened the control up and attached a wire to each of the ends on the control and I put a female plug for an extention cord onto the wires. Then I drilled a hole in the back of my smoker. The size of the probe. Then just plug the smoker in the the temp control and then the control into the wall. This lets me still use the smoker with out the temp control if need be. Mine has been working great for me. Drop me a line if you need any help.

post #13 of 25
its only wires, it'll work fine. but I'd expect the graduations on the knob to be off. thats the biggest problem I see, other than that, Like kookie said, it will work fine
post #14 of 25
AJ what you need to know is how many amps your coil in your smoker pulls.You also need to know how many amps the temp control is rated for[how many amps it will handle before melt down.]If you overload the temp control because its not rated for as many amps as your smoker draws it will melt down and you WILL have a problem.Most devices have an amp rating printed or stamped on them.The lettering may be small so you have to look close.Think of it as a rope rated for 500 lbs of pull and you hook it to a bulldozer and it starts pulling,whats going to happen,the rope is going to break cause theres more force on it than it is rated for.Take my word for this.Im not a know-it--all just an electrician.
post #15 of 25
Thread Starter 
Thanks all for the advice so far. The cover says 1650 watts. I am not sure what a Brinkman Gourmet smoker ECB is pulling, but I will do some looking on the net.
post #16 of 25
Check your spec sheet or the web. I am pretty sure that the Brinkman heating element is 1500 watt. (That is what I have found) I don't think that you will get extra heat, but you could choke it down if you wanted.

Tinker at your own risk, no one lives forever.

Just curious? What is the dial reading as far as temp range goes?
post #17 of 25
I just went and found a simular device and tore it apart to see what made it tic. I looks like we just have simple thermostats, the power is either on or off. Turning the knob adjust the breaker points gap/ sensitivity and the temp of the unit causes physical movement of the reeds. When things get to the hot end of the range the power is turned off, and when the temp gets to the low end of the range, it is turned back on.
post #18 of 25
If the thermostat thing doesn't work, you could always go to your local electronics supplier and buy a variable resister. Just splice the power cord and make the appropriate connections. Play around with it to figure out what temps you get out of what position as there will be no graduations on it. This will be a guarinteed to work mod as long as you set it up right and you won't have a thermostat messing around with your temps making them peak and valley worse than wall street on a busy day.
post #19 of 25
Thread Starter 
The dial reads from Off to 400. And what you described ZAPPER is exactly what is going on inside of this thing.

I plan on giving this a try this weekend and seeing if I can get it to work. If not, I won't be out anything.

Thanks all!
post #20 of 25
Ask the folks at http://www.rgreene.com/ about a Fenwal thermostat they have industrial units that will work. Chances are if you speak to them about what you are doing and give them a sample they will find a demo unit for you
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