Best gasketing ?

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motocrash

Master of the Pit
Original poster
OTBS Member
Aug 25, 2017
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Winchester,Va
I've been doing a little research and get the same song and dance under reviews of almost every product.It seems 50/50 either " love the stuff,great product"  or " fell off,burnt up,didn't last,don't waste your money".Any input would be appreciated as usual.....
 
Perkins rope gasket.    tack 1/2" angle to make a right angle for it to lay against then run a bead of silicone to hold it there.

Last for years on smokers used daily  
 
 
Perkins rope gasket.    tack 1/2" angle to make a right angle for it to lay against then run a bead of silicone to hold it there.

Last for years on smokers used daily  
That would work for the FB door.

How' do I make angle work on a curved surface like the tank door ?
 
Spend a few hours dialing the door in so you have minimal gap.    (Large hammer, blocks of wood, bottle jack).   You will be suprized how much it moves.

A lot of the time can fix a wayward door by opeing it, sticking small piece of wood near the hinge and then tweaking it slightly.
 
 
Spend a few hours dialing the door in so you have minimal gap.    (Large hammer, blocks of wood, bottle jack).   You will be suprized how much it moves.

A lot of the time can fix a wayward door by opeing it, sticking small piece of wood near the hinge and then tweaking it slightly.
Not understanding...make relief cuts in the angle to bend?
 
For the doors do as above then use the silicone trick  

clean the door well and appy a fat bead of silicone.

on the cook chamber I usually tape lunch wrap ( not sure what y'all call it) around the edge then cover with cooking oil.

Close the door and leave for 1-2 days.

Easy and works well.

Zero door gaps is esential to a smoker working well.
 
I've used both products mentioned above choosing one for the application needed. Regardless of what you use, surface prep I feel is key to having success with it. At work I deal with sealants, gaskets, adhesives etc. for military rotocraft and surface prep is actually more important than anything. Any residuals left on surface will cause failure or longevity of product. With painted metal, break surface or remove paint and solvent (alcohol-acetone) clean will give you an acceptable contact surface. Alot of complaints from people about failures of sealant products come from not prepping correctly and blaming the product instead.
 
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Wimpy,being a shade tree mechanic I had thought the problem probably rested firmly with surface prep from the people with negative reviews of products. Adhesives as you said need something to "latch" onto.Though sometimes there are inferior products - That's why I started this thread.

Thanks to all above for your input and I welcome more.

Bill
 
Ahumadora, do you mean wax paper or saran wrap by "lunch wrap" ?

I think you mean wax paper here in the states....

Thanks,Bill
 
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