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My first attempt at a build. - Page 5

post #81 of 110

The 20" is fine and will work. Often times too tall an exhaust results in your draft stalling because the heat cools and becomes heavy. I would come up one more inch on the fire grate.

post #82 of 110

kam59 mentioned he was one of the folks that developed the "Feldon Calculator"....   That being noted, I have copied and pasted a note from Feldon's calc......   specifically about the exhaust...    I follow Feldon's recommendation when choosing exhaust length....  BUT...  build the exhaust any length that suits your desires.....

 

 

Chimney Size
Enter the diameter of your chimney pipe to find out how long it should be.
  • A chimney that is too short may produce insufficient draft (drawing of air). A chimney that is too long may cause the air to cool before it exits, reducing effective draft and worse, dripping of exhaust materials onto food!
  • Many horizontal smokers have an exhaust between 30-40 inches in length, but there is no hard and fast formula.
  • If you are building a horizontal smoker with a vertical cooking cabinet, realize that the cabinet partly acts as an exhaust, thus you may greatly shorten the chimney.

post #83 of 110

Morgan put that statement in his calculator hoping folks would use some discretion in choosing too tall an exhaust or too short an exhaust. Morgan designed the online calculator for folks to use with Aliens permission he does not build cookers.  When I build a cooker or run numbers for folks I choose an exhaust diameter I know will work as far as balance to the cooker. Some common sense is needed when choosing an exhaust diameter because any calculator you use can only figure the volume needed based on the numbers you plug into it.

Example:

A 24" x 60" cooking chamber with 22" square firebox using a 6" exhaust would be 19" tall I would bump it to 24" and the cooker would work well.

Take the same cooker and put a 4"  exhaust on it and you would be sitting at 42" tall

A 3" would be at 75" tall.

Neither of these are viable options in my opinion as they are too tall to create a decent draft and burn clean.

I hope this helps. :)

post #84 of 110
Thread Starter 
Here's a pic of the stack at 30" tall.

post #85 of 110
Draw a line at 24". If you feel it gives you a balnced look run with it. 4" taller than one 6" shorter than the other. Happy medium. :)
post #86 of 110
Thread Starter 
I'm using a 4" inside diameter stack. My plenum hole on the inside of the cook chamber is 5 1/2" X 4 3/4". Im using 1" angle for my cooking grate track. Here's a pic of how the 1" angle will cover a portion of the hole. The tape measure is where the track will be. . Do you think the track will mess up my draft? I made the hole bigger than 4" thinking that would compensate for the rail being in the way.

post #87 of 110
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12ring View Post

I'm using a 4" inside diameter stack. My plenum hole on the inside of the cook chamber is 5 1/2" X 4 3/4". Im using 1" angle for my cooking grate track. Here's a pic of how the 1" angle will cover a portion of the hole. The tape measure is where the track will be. . Do you think the track will mess up my draft? I made the hole bigger than 4" thinking that would compensate for the rail being in the way.

You will be fine. Little Mama's is the same way.

 

post #88 of 110
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the quick responses. It sure helps when you're trying to build it a few hours here and there and guys are quick to help when a question is asked.
post #89 of 110
Thread Starter 


Got the frame welded up. Going to weld on some casters and then get a few buddies over here to help me lift it on. Hopefully my measurements are right.
post #90 of 110

Looks nice. :) Tack you a piece across the short end temporarily to help keep the uprights from spreading.

post #91 of 110
Quote:
Originally Posted by kam59 View Post
 

Looks nice. :) Tack you a piece across the short end temporarily to help keep the uprights from spreading.

yes....YES....definitely do this...(don't ask me how I know this ;)  )

post #92 of 110
Thread Starter 
I'm trying to figure out my fire box intake but I'm having trouble. Feldons says I need 15 sq". I was going to do two cut outs measuring 2.5" X 3" but they can't be centered in the door and I think them being off centered will drive me crazy. Hers a pic of the 2.5" X 3" Intake. Any suggestions? And I wanted to keep my intake low as possible. I wanted it at or below fire grate level.

By the way, that poster board is actual size. Like a dummy though, I did it upside down. The rounded side is actually the bottom.



post #93 of 110
Thread Starter 
This is another option. The dotted line simulates where the grate will be if I raise it 1". Those triangles are exactly 15 sq inches.

post #94 of 110

 

Why not do three openings in the door that way you will be balanced. :) You can always have more than needed.

post #95 of 110
Thread Starter 
Is there any draw back to puttin the cook chamber door banding (door sealer) on the inside? I guess I would have to raise my rack up 1/2" or so so it's out of the way of the cooking rack??
post #96 of 110
Thread Starter 
I made some progress today. Got it up on the frame, casters welded on and cut the CC door banding cut.

post #97 of 110
Thread Starter 
I think 45's will look better on the door but who knows it you will even be able to tell. I may have done the extra work for nothing.


post #98 of 110
Looks good. It will be stronger that way. U gona burn wood in it or charcoal?
post #99 of 110

Looking good!

post #100 of 110
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by motolife313 View Post

Looks good. It will be stronger that way. U gona burn wood in it or charcoal?

Yes definitely a stick burner.
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