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30" Master Built electric smoker

post #1 of 35
Thread Starter 

This is my first I need help Temp. Keeps rising in smoker. I can set the temp on the digital display @225 then time. When smoker reaches 225 the light will go off but heating element never cuts off. Does anyone have any idea what my problem could be?

post #2 of 35


I wonder if it is a defective controller. Not sending the signal to the element to shut down. I know the temps will continue to coast for a time, but have not heard of never shutting off. I would call Masterbuilt, I hear they have excellent customer service. And they promptly send out replacement parts.

post #3 of 35

 The element is switched by a relay. Most likely the relay points have stuck together so it keeps the element on even with no switching power being sent. Cool the unit off, plug it in and press the on button without setting temp or time. If it heats up the relay should be the problem.

 They would likely replace the whole box if that is the case.

 

Chuck

post #4 of 35
Thread Starter 

Thanks Chuck I have already called MB customer service talked to a nice young lady which seem to think that I needed a new controller, and although it was 13 months old they would send me one for free of charge. It came in a couple days ago plugged it in unit did same thing. I am about to try what you suggested to see if the relay is stuck. But as far as MB sending new cabinet that is out of the question they wanted to charge me more than what I paid for it new from Gander Mountain, also I would have to transfer several parts from the old one. If the relay is stuck is there any other fix that I could do and not have to go through MB?

post #5 of 35
Thread Starter 

Chuck tried your suggestion of just turning the unit on and see if the temp would rise with out setting, it did not so I guess that clears relay. Guess it could still be the main box on bottom.

 Berefood I may have to get PID controller.

post #6 of 35
Thread Starter 

Chuck tried your suggestion of just turning the unit on and see if the temp would rise with out setting, it did not so I guess that clears relay. Guess it could still be the main box on bottom.

May have to get PID

post #7 of 35
Thread Starter 

Tried setting it at 200 let it reach temp heard the relay click red heat light went off. I unplugged it let it cool then plugged back up no heat so do you think it is the relay? Another question when the door is open on the right side 3/4 up from floor there is a probe what is this and could it be bad?

post #8 of 35
Thread Starter 

The heating element must cutback but never completely off because the temp in the cabinet never stops rising. The temp has been as high as 300 when I cut it off. The heating element has easy access with the chip tray pulled out and I think the relay is in a box on the bottom of the unit. The last test was with the new controller.

post #9 of 35
Thread Starter 

I will check the box out on the bottom of the unit and see if there is a relay visible. By the way do you have any idea what the probe is 3/4  up from the bottom on the inside right of the unit?

post #10 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by berefood View Post

The relay is what lets electricity pass thru to the heating element.  It sounds like it is malfunctioning at some point in the heating process but not all the time. You did get a free controller so the cost of a relay might not be a bad investment.  If you liked the way the smoker worked prior to the problem I would look into a new relay. Cost being the main factor.  Factor the cost vs a PID. The PID is far superior and will last much longer but you loose some of the functions of the smoker.
After I replaced my heating element lugs I plugged in the smoker, turned it on so the green power light is on but did not program it to call for heat. With the 120VAC meter on one lug and the other on the chasis I was reading 120VAC to ground. The other lug to chasis was oVAC. So the controller relay switch would be on the negative lead? If there is a short between the negativer lug and switch on a non gfci outlet then the heating element would stay on without being programed to heat?
-Kurt
post #11 of 35
Thread Starter 

Thanks Kurt I will check that in the morning.

post #12 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlake View Post

Thanks Kurt I will check that in the morning.
I don't t know if this would be your problem but shouldn't the relay switch be on the hot lead? I don't have a problem with my smoker but the hot lug attached to the heating element leg when just powered on and being energized sounds dangerous. I wonder if others have checked each lug to ground when only powered on?
-Kurt
post #13 of 35
Thread Starter 

Checked it this morning same as yours one leg had 120V to ground the other 0 VAC. That wire goes to a box on the bottom side of the cabinet where I would guess the relay would be.

post #14 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlake View Post

Checked it this morning same as yours one leg had 120V to ground the other 0 VAC. That wire goes to a box on the bottom side of the cabinet where I would guess the relay would be.
That's probably why the entire junction box/cover plate interior is insulated with rubber. With the lousy flag connectors that come with the mes and the rate that they disintegrate, leaving a bare wire sticking up in that junction box like mine was that could be a bad design. I unplug when done smoking but a controller left on from an expired timer that has a failed connector and bare wire finding it's way to ground is an energized chassis. I guess a gfci would trip but unnerving. A buddy of mine that's an electrical engineer tested for this and had concerns.
-Kurt
post #15 of 35
Thread Starter 

Tried all I know took the cover off the small box located on the bottom of the unit found small relay was able to read the values. placed an order for one a few min. ago.

post #16 of 35
Thread Starter 

Update I forgot to check the relay to see if it was bad or not. It is a normally open relay, when I checked It was open. Does this mean my problem could still be the relay. all the help. I will post an update I will post an up date when I get the new one installed. 


Edited by dlake - 2/5/17 at 5:25pm
post #17 of 35

Masterbuilt just sent me a new controller for a 30" gen-2 MES. I had several problems, one of which was the heating element not shutting off.

 

The new controller seems to have fixed everything.

 

However, I have read a LOT of the posts about problems with the MES, and when Masterbuilt sends a new controller, it seems to fix the problem for about 3/4 of the people, meaning that about a quarter still have a problem.

 

I'd wait until the controller arrives and see if you are one of the lucky 75%. I was in that group and am up and smoking again.

post #18 of 35
Thread Starter 

I looked at the relay wrong it is a N/O and it read ok. Confused

John I installed the new controller hasn't helped.


Edited by dlake - 2/5/17 at 5:27pm
post #19 of 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by dlake View Post
 

John I installed the new controller hasn't helped.

Oops, I missed that. Sorry.

post #20 of 35
Thread Starter 
The new relay came in, just installed it no change set temp at 200 never stopped rising unplugged unit at 300. Don't know what to do now. HELP
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