Old Country Wrangler: What to drill through 3/16" steel with?

Through 3/16" mild steel, to drill a 7/8" hole, I would use a hole saw. First, I would use a center punch to make sure the pilot bit doesn't "wander". Your spade bit is for wood, not steel. If you don't have a hole saw or don't want to purchase one, you can use a uni-step bit. They are not especially accurate and would require a starter hole.

Like the spade bit, make sure that the hole saw that you buy is for steel. Good luck, Joe.

Like Joe said, hole saw.  I use a 7/8" hole saw all the time for conduit connectors in mild steel.  I also use a uni step bit, but that thing costs close to 60 bucks.  Good luck!

Mike

I am very familiar with this kinda stuff, have done variations of this a thousand times over 50 yrs.

Well, ya, you could use a hole saw.

A step bit would be overall easier, to handle, and a much cleaner hole, but holesaw OK.

But holesaw takes some experience to use succesfully, For you, I strongly advise against.

&/8 is the hole size for "1/2" pipe, cut in steel by Electricians more than anyone.

They do NOT use hole saws.

One advantage of using the step bit is it is basically user error free.

The holesaw takes some various finesse.

Seeing as how you first tried w a spade bit, sorry, you have your skills in other areas.

You again, apparently have your skills in another arena, and do not do "shop work"

Everyone has different skills, this is NOT a cut down.

So, this seems to be a one time use for you.

So, I highly recommend the stepbit, better , easier, and cheaper then hole saw.

Spade bit?????

Uh, no, not for any metal thicker than like .020", and even then, not steel, just AL, copper, etc.

Soft stuff.

Joe Black said the step bit is not accurate - ?????????????

I respectfully TOTALLY disagree.

He may have had some bad experience.

The step bit cuts a MUCH cleaner hole than hole saws, and does not wander, vibrate, get goofy potentially in various ways like a hole saw does a bit, even with it's pilot) at ALL

Heres your cheapest bet -  Chinese, but for your use sufficient.


Sourced from here - https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=step+bit+7/8"

The step bits do NOT require a "sterter hole" at all.

BUT - It will last longer if you do predrill like with a 1/8" bit, cause the very tip seems to be the first to dull, but only after numerous uses.

Wish you were at my shop, done in a few heartbeats.

If you want a hole saw, cheapest good way to go for one  is- find specifically a "McCoy" with an integral arbor.   Marc

If you can spare the cash I'd buy a set of Hanson bits(that's a type of bit not a brand name) they're made to cut steel and do it with a minimum of effort. You should also buy some cutting oil to use when drilling to keep the bits cool and extend the life of the bits.

The metal shavings CAN do WAY  more damage if swallowed than in anyone's feet.

Feet are nothing, less'n you're diabetic.

The magnet idea is great for gathering loose stuff, BUT NOT if applied by where you are drilling, because the magnet will make many chips attracted  to around the steel surface it is on.

The rag or catch pan or similar, is a way better way to do it.

Kinda like NEVER use any kind of wire brush on your grates, ONLY unless you pressure wash them, or equivalent after brushing.

Google it.

Wire brushes on the grill were inventad by the Devil.

Google it.   Marc

Actually Marctrees the magnets will take about 95% of the shavings they collect with them when you pick them up off of the metal of the lid. There may a little temporary magnetism on the metal of the lid holding some small chips (that will wipe off with a rag) but the magnets will collect and carry off with them most of the  large stuff they collect. The magnets strangely enough don't seem to collect the largest of the shavings as their weight and speed will throw them out of the magnets range.

I agree with the wire brush statement. I once bit into a hamburger and ended up pulling a wire from a wire brush out of the roof of my mouth. The thing had come out of the brush when the cook scrubbed the grill, the cook did not scrap or wipe the grill and he must have cooked my patty on the blasted thing and served it to me. Man that hurt going in and coming out.

Okie - Ya, all makes sense.

My main concern, is actually ingesting it.

Imagine that possible long term nightmare.

And they still continue to market various wire brushes for grill use.

I have NEVER EVER seen a wire brush of ANY kind not shed bristles.

If I was washing with pressure washer or similar AFTER brushing, no problem then.

But if you're just gonna brush, and even wipe after, I think thats nuts.         Marc

Step bit aka unibit. Don't run it at too high an rpm, especially when it gets to the larger diameter part of the bit or you won't even make it to your second hole. Larger the diameter, slower the rpm.A greenlee double flute is about the best but a little pricey. $25-30 but I've had mine for almost 20 years. Bought it at Home Depot in the electrical section, not the tool section iirc. (Amazon has them, Greenlee 34403 Multi-Hole Step Bit, 7/8") Use some kind of lubricant. Even olive oil will help.

Hole saws make a messy hole, especially in steel as they tend to wobble before they get deep enough to not wobble. If you do use a hole saw, get the white one meant for metal/steel. Milwaukee is a good one. You could probably lay the thing on it's back but with a prop under it, open the door, also propped and the cutting wouldn't fall inside, plus you'd be able to put a little weight on the drill.

Hi DDBBQing,

I work as a machinist so I may be able to help you here. What I would do, and have done on my Oklahoma Joe offset unit(1/4" cold rolled steel) is get yourself a Milwaukee Hole saw. Use a 7/8" saw with the 1/2" arbor. You will need a drill with a 1/2" chuck and low rpms. Put a little oil on the saw as it works and be patient. The drill bit in the arbor will make the first hole and then hold the saw steady as you continue so you'll make a nice neat hole that you can clean up with a file. That Milwaukee is a bear so you won't have to lean on it too much. That's not what I would do in a machine shop but it is perfectly fine for the intended purpose. Good luck!

On the other hand if you are a little inexperienced in this kind of metalwork, maybe you have a friend who could give you hand? It might cost you a six pack and a plate of ribs, but it'd be a heck of a good day!