Food Proofer Conversion is happeneing

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Terry - I think probably Dward is right on, but only if you want a TOTALLY SEPARATE electronics project to save like I dunno $200 or so $.

Keep in mind, IF you build your own, you ARE on your own.

So that's YOUR call.

I was an Electrical Contractor for 23 yrs, (even though that has VERY little to do with this, other than super basics)

I am of very low income and assets,( everything is about $ expenditure for me, even socks selection) and I STILL say--------- buy from Auber and be DONE.

NO jacking around..

Re: Smokeware cap-    The damper function, you leave open fully.

If you study, almost alllll smokers of any kind, have an open open unrestricted output.

ALLLLLL airflow is controlled incoming.

So the Smokeware is a beautiful "topper", but you leave it all open.

Waiting for the in side door photos to insulate that Polycarb window.     Marc
 
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Thanks for the drawings.  My line of thinking was to run two elements to get the smoker up to the big wattage, the primary being a 2600 watt element and the secondary being a 1500 watt.  Having that kind of heating power I would not use either of the heating elements that are factory installed in the unit.  But I would use the fan to keep the temps even.
 
Sledhead - Re the chimney stack - Interestingly, I have a couple feet of Diesel chromed stack, about 5+ inch, sitting in shop.

I have contemplating using it, under the Smokeware top.

Other than doing so to increase draft, I don't know.

And, how much it helps draw or not, I don't know.    Marc
 
Hey Marc,

I understand what you are saying.  I would still be getting PID from Auberins so would think that I would have any tech support that I need.  I am in Canada and with a 1.35 exchange rate to buy it complete costs me over 600.00 plus shipping.  I am very confident that I will be able to purchase all the components including the controller for around 300.00.  Also Auberins has on their website a parts list for the WSD-SMD including a wiring diagram for anyone that wants to purchase the individual components and build it themselves and show an "Economic and Standard" version.  So I am not afraid to tackle the project.





Here are hoots of the magnetic latch.  There is a steel plate screwed to the side of the opening and the magnets are on the latch side.  When you pull on the handle a pin comes out and pushed the door open.



The hinges mount on the side of the opening and also onto the side of the door





Here are the pics of the door edge.  There is a screw in each of the corners that holds all of the pieces together.  There is a bit of a curved edge that is kind of hard to see.  From the polycarbonate glass to the top of the curve where the door gasket is approximately a half inch in height.




 
I love those flexible magnetic seals when used in coolers, proofers, and the like. But I question how they would hold up when exposed to cooking temperatures.

You may find that you need to replace the door seals with something else to withstand the high temps. If those seals start to break down, they could release bad tasting or potentially harmful compounds.

Just be sure to find out what they are made of and be sure it is rated for the temperatures to which they'll be exposed.



Tabbed in.
 
I have spoke with Metro Industries who who makes the unit and they told me that the gasket will easily withstand temps in the 225-250 range.  so it should be fine, but is something I will keep an eye on once the unit becomes operational.  For my purposes I do not think I would ever go over the 225 temp range.  There is a slot in the door that is used for the gasket installation, I think it would be very easy to convert it to a rope type wood stove or fireplace gasket.
 
I saw the photos, great job.

My purpose was to see if you could put a layer of insul of ?what? thickness inside the window, and overlay w a cheap simple ONLY sheared, not bent edge sheet of AL, without incurring Labor $ for bending any edges/ flanges for attachment and insul space, other than shearing.

It SEEMS, after photos, you could use a flat sheet .......  possibly.

Tuck the edges under the seal strip gasket like 1/8" or so.

The issue is that available space, that I think you said was "1/2"

So, if so, kinda pretty thin insulation.

In any case, bent edges or not, Sheet metal screw right next to the gasket w low profile screws, probably Phillips head, not Hex head, for lower overall head height, not to interfere w door closure. 

Just my idea.

I just know that a sheared flat piece will be like $100 less than one with custom bent edges.

Although, that would allow thicker insulation.

Unless your'e Buds w a sheet metal shop guy.

That was my only point.    Marc 
 
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Sledhead, I have a stalled in-progress insulated warmer conversion sitting out in our shop.  I expect to get back to it after deer season.  I don't want to hijack your thread but you seem to be heading down a similar track as me. 

In my warmer the original 200 degree F, 1650 watt, 120 volt unit has a heater and fan unit as a removable package unit wired with the fan control independent of the heat or humidity elements.  I expect to pull it out for smoking. 

The gap left below the door (where the controls are on the package unit are) would be a good place to add a removable pan with the 240 volt element and an adjustable front intake vent panel.  I plan to use a top exhaust stack with a little drip pan suspended under it to catch any drips from moisture condensing in the stack.  I think the stack unit pictured above would work just dandy.

The electrical modification will use a 240 volt 2,600 watt element directly driven by an Auber WSD-1500GPH plug and play smoker controller.  The element will draw 10.83 Amps/240 volts at full load and the controller (120/240 volt capable) is rated at 12 Amps continuous load so at 240 volts the element is getting close to the max continuous output rating of the controller.  All of which caused me to wonder if the controller might eventually overheat if driven at full output for a long time.

I'm often a belt AND suspenders guy so after discussing my desire to cool the controller with a computer type fan I was advised by Kane at Auber to have the fan blowing on the heat sink which is located on the bottom of the controller.  That way the unit could easily drive the element at full power on a hot day with no issues.  The current plan is that the fan will mount under the shelf holding the controller and blow through a vent onto the heat sink and the fan will be running whenever the power is on.  I found the 120 volt variable speed fan on Amazon for (if my memory is correct) around $23 USD. 

Auber has the ASD-1500GPH on sale for $203 USD right now and that includes two probes-one each for heat control and for your product.  For a ready to run plug and play unit that is fully programmable and which will run an auxiliary device like a smoke generator on a program that's a good deal.  The 120/240 volt capability is a nice bonus.  You can read about the 1500GPH at:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=381

Regarding running the WSD-1500GPH on 240 Volts, what's below is cut-and-pasted from Kane in an Auber email....

To use WSD-1500GPH for 240VAC power supply, since the 120V power plug is different than 240V, you need to cut the original plug, then install 240V plug, or you can use special made power strip/adapter to convert the power plug for 240VAC. The original power plug is NEMA5-15P. This controller needs three wires from 240V power supply: two hot wires and one ground. No neutral needed. The heater output socket is NEMA5-15R. Smoke generator socket is IEC C13.

The maximum current output is 12A/240V. Please make sure the power rating of your heater is less than this rating. Also, when you power it by 240V, both heater output and smoke generator output will get 240V as well.

If I feel I need to circulate air while smoking/cooking I've contemplated using a variable speed squirrel cage fan pushing air into the vertical louvered stack on the back wall and pulling air from the smoker.  Like this one maybe:

41hFtaHPrgL.jpg


The advice to leave the exhaust flowing without restriction is generally good advice for combustion heated units running on charcoal, wood or gas as they need a lot of airflow to both support combustion and to keep the smoke from getting bitter.  But from my experience that does not apply to electrically heated units so regarding a dampered exhaust, I would install one.  A smoke generator drawing it's combustion air from inside the cabinet, like the AMNPS or tube units, will need more air flow than an external smoke generator will but in any case it will not need as much airflow as a combustion fired unit does.  The adjustable damper gives you options and more control.

If you use an external smoke source you need very little air flow so long as you have enough to exchange the smoky air.  We have three electric units now, none as big as the warming cabinet, though.  If seeking to dehydrate while smoking (such as for jerky) I usually keep the vents wide open.  For hot smoking and BBQ we keep the vents wide open until the surface of the meat or sausage is dry and then continue with them around half closed which, in addition to using less energy lowers moisture loss.  I will note that getting a good bark on the critter parts requires the damper being more open in the later stages of BBQing.

Lastly, a cabinet like this won't necessarily be used for smoking all the time so if you are using it for plain old cooking or reheating then closing the vents will heat your cabinet and food faster and with less moisture loss.

I hope all this rambling helps.....

Lance
 
Another thought would be to score the silicone sealant at the door frame corners, unscrew the corners and remove the polycarbonate panel.  Then you could drop in a sheet of metal or even just screw an insulated panel to the outside of the frame. 

I suspect that most of us know a builder or roofer with an aluminum brake. Since the bending will be pretty much all edge work and not out in the field of the sheet one of those would likely work just fine for bending up most of the edges.  In a pinch (no pun intended) a pair of flat hand seamers would work as will clamping a pair of boards on the metal sheet at the bend line and hand bending the edges over.

My experience is that any HVAC shop that bends it's own plenums and specialty duct will be a lot less expensive for bending something like this up than will a welding or metal fabrication shop so check them out, too.

Lance
 
Hey Lance,

All really good info.  You are correct the bottom part of the cabinet is removable and does contain all of the heating elements and the fan.  Mine is all still functioning, so just figured leave it in and use the existing fan that is already connected to the plenum that is running up the back of the unit.  I was originally looking at the same controller as you have indicated but my price in Canadian dollars will still be in the 270 range.  I have not priced everything yet but i am thinking I could purchase all of the components and build the controller myself  for the same range and have one that has WAY more capacity.  Heck, I can buy the DIY kit from Auberins if I did not want to source it all my self for just over 400.00 Canadian. So for a controller that is three times the size for another 130.00 i think is well worth it and no worries about the controller overheating and leading to possible future failure.

So If I leave the bottom control unit in, I was going to build a rack that would hold my heating elements and simply slide it into the slot that was two up from the bottom.  I was planning on having that all neatly wired with heat proof wiring such as what is used in ovens that would plug into my controller so I could be easily removed if needed.  I was originally thinking of using an external smoke source (like a mailbox) but if I am running the internal fan it may actually force air back into the box not allowing any smoke to come in.  So, I may just go with a chip tray on one of the elements or use one of the AMNPS.

As to the door, I was thinking about just removing the polycarbonate and replacing it with a piece of sheet metal or aluminum.  If I were to do that I would be spending the money on the material and still have an uninsulated door.  I am really leaning towards still having a piece of sheet metal or aluminum and sandwiching insulation between it and the polycarbonate.  That way I gain an insulated door for the same price.

Do you have any pics of your project?
 
So I did a bit of price checking and I can get a 52"x21" piece of 1/8" aluminum cut for the door for about 65.00 bucks I would them just screw it to the existing door with some insulaton between it and the polycarbonate.

I am planning on using two range top elements for my heating source.  Will all be wired for 220v.  Any problems with using elements like that??

http://www.amresupply.com/part/38-826-ELEMENT-8-inch-PIGTAIL-2600W-240

http://www.amresupply.com/part/38-815-ELEMENT-6-inch-PIGTAIL-1500W-240
 
I would think the elements would be OK.  

Make SURE you have some SOLID connections to them, so those points are not susceptible to "burning open", like many folks have failures at that location on Masterbuilts.

A factory connector is best.

Solder, EVEN IF it adheres well, will let go around 360F.  

But if way under that, a great option.  Marc
 
AL sheet -  $65 is very reasonable, especially if sheared to correct size.

For your purpose, 1/2 that thickness would be ample, NOOO problem.

NO need for .125".

Elements - DON'T spend that money on new ones.

Option is to cannibalize from old range, benefit being you get the connector, and some heatproof leads with it !!!

And, ALL posibbly FREE.

They generally do not get "old".

I mean ya, maybe, but usually last longer than you. Marc
 
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Thanks Marc,

I know they also have material that is 0.06" if I recall that was about 50.00 for the piece I need cut to size.  As luck would have it my dad has an old stove out at the farm so I will "borrow" the parts from it.  I am going to be price checking some of the electrical components tomorrow.  Hoping to be ordering parts within a few days.  
 
So Christmas has come early.  I ordered the controller parts from Auberins and purchased to box locally.  I can not say enough good things about Auberins, the customer service is amazing and the items arrived VERY FAST.  I ordered the parts on Monday morning and they arrived today (2 day later to my office in Edmonton, Alberta).  I have spoke to them several times and have been very helpful and answered all of my questions.  I highly recommend dealing with them.  

Now just to put it all together.  but definitely one step closer.

 
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Same way I built mine.. does this PID have the "ramp" feature ??

Also Head... what's the 3 line block in the bottom left corner of the pic ?? I see the SSR above it ...
 
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Same way I built mine.. does this PID have the "ramp" feature ??

Also Head... what's the 3 line block in the bottom left corner of the pic ?? I see the SSR above it ...
Yes, the cooking temperature profile of the controller can be programmed up to 6 steps.  The block in the bottom left is a 3 pole 30 amp contactor.  I am running 220 volt power so you need the contactor to cut the power to both of the hot lines.  Here is the explanation on the Auberins site, It was listed in the build list so I went with it.  

A) Contactor
Contactor is an electromechanical switch. When the current rating is more than 15A, it is normally called contactor instead of relay. 

The advantages of using contactor to switch the power are the followings: (1) It does not generate heat as the SSR does. So there is no need for heat sink to dissipate the heat. (2) It normally comes with two poles or three poles. So when it is off, both power lines are open. It makes the system safe. (3) When it fails, it stays open for most of cases. This is relatively safer than the SSR. (4) The cost is low.

Keith, How big of a unit are you running how many watts of heating element are you useing?
 
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Yes, the cooking temperature profile of the controller can be programmed up to 6 steps.  The block in the bottom left is a 3 pole 30 amp contactor.  I am running 220 volt power so you need the contactor to cut the power to both of the hot lines.  Here is the explanation on the Auberins site, It was listed in the build list so I went with it.  

A) Contactor
Contactor is an electromechanical switch. When the current rating is more than 15A, it is normally called contactor instead of relay. 

The advantages of using contactor to switch the power are the followings: (1) It does not generate heat as the SSR does. So there is no need for heat sink to dissipate the heat. (2) It normally comes with two poles or three poles. So when it is off, both power lines are open. It makes the system safe. (3) When it fails, it stays open for most of cases. This is relatively safer than the SSR. (4) The cost is low.

Keith, How big of a unit are you running how many watts of heating element are you useing?
For snack sticks and sausage you will love that 6 step program memory.  I have mine set for snack sticks which is a 4 step heat profile the way I make them.  It makes the process truly set and forget once the meat is in the smoker.  From initial drying of the casing to finished product is totally automated by the PID.

Ahhhhh..... Contactor AKA a mercury wetted relay in the old days (before someone decided mercury was one of those substances that might end all life as we know it in the hands of mere mortals).  I might have a 60amp and 30amp one of those in the parts box in the basement.  They are spares for a 15kw textile dryer I have (yes I said 15,000 watts).  You can really watch the meter spin when that sucker is running.

Mercury wetted relay

 
no.. the MES is not the one I use... I have a smokehouse (not in signature) ... it has 2 - 220v elements out of an old oven... I only use a SSR (with heat sync) ... no contacter .... I am interested in seeing how your going to wire this as my thinking is the conactor will work against the SSR ?? meaning the contactor is ether on 100% full power or off... The SSR keeps turning on and off many times a minute to hold at set temp... The contactor (from what I understand) stays on until it gets to set temp then turns off... resulting in temps rising above and falling below set temps (like an oven) ... PLease correct me if i'm wrong ...
 
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