If it heats to 230* then cools with the heating light on, on the controller, it can be the dime size snap disc over heat sensor failing on the back wall, opening the circuit to the element at too low of a temp instead of over 302*. Some have tried an ice cube on it to cool it down quickly to see if it heats up again. I don't have an access like the newer models to bypass it so I'd have to cut an access panel with a dremel tool to get to it. Just checking to see if the two tests in last post were good or bad with 12 OHMS and no continuity on one leg with the one probe and the other probe on the chassis. I have marked on the back of my smoker where the snap disc sensor is in case I have to bypass it with a quick cut out, cutting horizontal from above then two vertical cuts to avoid the wires that come up from the bottom of the smoker.Thanks for the reply dr k. Good to know about the extension cord, I have a 25ft 10 gauge so making the assumption it is sufficient. Also love the plywood shelter idea, stealin* that!
I have the two cleaned wires connected back to the element legs and I crimped the connection with pliers to ensure it was a tight fit connection. I fired the smoker back up but unfortunately it still heats up to about 230 degrees then cools down even with the red heating light still going. Guessing it’s a bad heating element? Going to get a replacement and hopefully that gets it back up and running again. Any ideas or thoughts on the issue would be appreciated. Thanks again
Best,
Zack
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