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New Sausage maker

post #1 of 40
Thread Starter 

Well between me and Jay, we decided it was time to build a new sausage smoker at his house that would hold more than my build. http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/149279/sausage-maker-electric-build


 Took the basic idea from Jerry's smoke house at the North Florida gathering. Going to try and run it off the electric PID I built for mine. It was only 1800 watts single phase. We are going to insulate the hell out of it so hope it will get to 180 degrees with the current set up. Will be 4 X 4 X 8. The inside will be cement board.. For the roof vent was thinking of using a ridge vent and cut only a small section out to start to see how the amazing tube smoker burn. If we don't get enough draw keep opening the ridge opening until we do. Thoughts?  Was just an idea instead of a traditional vent with damper. We have a hard time finding vent parts here in Northwest Florida.




 Hopefully have walls next weekend.

80 pound bags of sac-crete weigh more than they used to!!!

post #2 of 40

That is going to be a lot of air volume (and potentially a lot of meat mass) to get to 180* with a electric element. You are probably going to need 220v and higher wattage unless you want to let it warm up for a day before smoking.  Also it may take more than one pellet tube for the same reason (air volume).  But try what you have on hand and if it works, great!  If not, then you can modify.


As to the vent, I would be inclined to go with a stack type vent as you can put a damper in to control the air flow.  You could extend the vent down into the smoke chamber enough to mount the damper and control it from inside the smoker instead of having to get on the roof. Once you cut a ridge vent, it is what it is and is not adjustable.  Also if you have problems drawing at lower temps, you can add to the stack vent height to increase draw if needed.  Unfortunately things like that are difficult to model ahead of the build and adjustments would be made after it's built.


Oh, and that is going to be one awesome smoker once you get it dialed in!!!!!

post #3 of 40
Thread Starter 
Dward we'll be running 2 pellet smokers in it for sure. My warming box one I made has no trouble getting to 180 but we are basically doubling the smoking area. That's why we are going to insulate the heck out or it. May not work but I've already built that one and going to give it a shot. If not I'll be making another order from auerberins and spending more money building a 220 pid. And I'll have to run a 220 line. Crossing my fingers!!!
post #4 of 40

If the 120v element cannot keep up, I would try a small gas burner in that size pit before I sprung the money for the 220v mod and PID.  Not as flexible or "set and forget" as a multi-step Auber PID would be, but $50 at Norther Tool for the burner mod and add an extended hose to an external tank and it should work.  Put two steel plates separated by an inch or two on top to keep any meat drippings from starting a fire on the burner and you are good. This model has 3 levels of flame for heat control.


I would probably stick with pellets tubes as they are more consistent for smoke.  In that volume smoker, I don't think you would even need to fool with a hard line for the gas supply.  On the floor, standard gas line should be fine.


post #5 of 40
Thread Starter 
Do you think regular insulation will be fine with it covered in duraroc cement board? Roxul is so dang expensive. Should never get over 180. The burner will be a back up plan. Love the set and forget. Wait for the temp monitor to yell at me that it's done!
post #6 of 40
Tim.. the PID you have will work with 220V (just wire the PID with 110 split off the 220) ... that's what I use in my smokehouse with 2 oven elements... and that's on a 100' cord (#8 gauge) ...

Jay.. looks like you've been eat'n good bro... biggrin.gif

PS... you guys are loading up in Jay's camper and coming to S. FL. right ??? (reserve site early)...

post #7 of 40
Thread Starter 

I found this element if I have to go to 220 it's 5000 watts.



Keith what did you use for insulation?

post #8 of 40
no insulation... just plain ol plywood... If i'm not mistaken... I think there is a housing for that element to go in... maybe that was on Sausage maker I seen both of em ...
post #9 of 40

If you use fiberglass insulation, make sure it's the un-faced type.  it should be just fiberglass insulation and no paper or other facing or covering.  It should be fine for the temps you are running.  Off the top of my head, I seem to recall it's good to 700 or 800* anyway.  Even if you have a grease fire the cement board will protect it from open flames and it would have to be a LOT of grease to matter in that volume of air anyway.


Also that is a decent price for the 5kw 220v element.  I would recommend you look at the size/volume of air that element is made to work with.  Your smoker is going to be considerably bigger (about 4 times bigger?).  I would think it will work, but it may take a while to heat up due to size. Also 5KW is going to draw over 20 amps so even at 220v you are looking at a 30amp 220v circuit to power this element.  And like JckDaniels 07 said, you can pull 110v from one leg of the 220v circuit back to neutral to power the PID controller (also some PID's run fine on 220v but it depends on your specs).

post #10 of 40
Thread Starter 

Well I'm hoping with the way we are going to insulate the walls and ceiling that temps will not be a problem. Just did the math and not going to be happy to have to run a 30 amp circuit if it comes to that, but we'll do what it takes to get it working. Would have been easier to just run 4 batches thru mine. LOL but what fun is that!

post #11 of 40
Regular insulation will be fine. You need really high temps for fiberglass insulation to burn.
post #12 of 40
Thread Starter 

Well I had a guy offer me some sheet metal to line the inside with instead of the durarock? Trying to keep the costs down and it's free.  Thoughts

post #13 of 40
I think you'll like the sheet metal better.. easier clean up.. if needed ... and since it's donated ... shoot.. you could put the cement board in and then cover that with sheet metal...
post #14 of 40
Thread Starter 
Got a little done after work tonight. It's a build as you go!!! Lol
post #15 of 40
Looking good Tim
post #16 of 40
looking good Bub.. Hope the door fits better than Jerry's ... biggrin.gif
post #17 of 40

Looking good. 


Yep, sheet metal will work just fine.  If you have the cement board, you can use it under the sheet metal as it will act like a thermal mass and help moderate temps.  If you don't already have it, there are other ways to add thermal mass "if you need it" so save the money.  The drawback to thermal mass is, the more you have, the longer it takes the pit to hit temp as the mass is soaking up heat also.  The plus is it helps moderate temp swings both up and down once the mass is at temp.  But with an insulated pit, it's less of an issue to start with.

post #18 of 40
Thread Starter 

Was able to work a little more yesterday. Got the insulation in the ceiling and the roof dried in. Didn't get the shingles on yet cause we forgot to buy drip edge. Decided to drop the ceiling some cause it's just wasted space. Will get the rest of the insulation and the concrete board up in the next couple of days. Didn't build eaves on the back ran out of material and can't see it any way. Gonna use 3 1/2" eave metal anyway. Costs are starting to add up gotta cut a few corners in case I have to redo the heating system.






post #19 of 40
Thread Starter 

Got the durorock hung and we ran a test on it yesterday with my 110 volt 1500 watt element and that is not going to work. Back to the drawing board! good news is the 2 tube smokers burned good and the smoke stack worked out. Either going to have to run 220 or go propane for now.


post #20 of 40
Thread Starter 

Keith are you just using an oven element?

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