or Connect
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

RF Pit Upgrades

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

Well guys I can't believe it has been 5 years since my RF trailer build.  Here is a link to that build: http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/104223/new-rf-smoker-trailer-build

 

It has since treated me well, had numerous cook-offs, won a few trophies. Done plenty of benefits, reunions, fundraisers, etc. I felt it was time for me to do some upgrades to the pit and trailer.  It all started when my foot when through the wooden floor of the trailer... long story, and no pitmaster was hurt from it :icon_lol:.   So new flooring it is, but my imagination kinda went from there...

 

So here is my thread for the upgrades.  It includes:

- new flooring

- new insulated firebox

- rebar firebox grate

- propane torch build in the firebox

- roof

- wired for electrical, including LED lights on it.

- repaint the whole pit/ trailer.

 

Once again I will be in a cookoff in the middle of April, so I am working to get most of this done pretty quick. Already a month into the upgrades, and have made progress.  I will be posing pics in a bit.  Here's one to start, the firebox grate:


This is the old grate.. it was all torn up from 5 years of use. 


And here is the new grate. 

 

 

More pics to come, stay tuned!

post #2 of 12
I went back and read your original build. Really nice setup. Looking forward to seeing the upgrades!
post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 

Ok finally getting a second to post some more pics of the progress

 


so here I removed the supports and moved the whole pit to the front to accommodate the new firebox and tongue weight.  Removed all the flooring to get ready to install the new grate. I got some walking grate from the steel supply, as you can see in this pic, I just dry fitted it.

 

 

Firebox cut off and cutting the inside walls for the new firebox.

 

 

New firebox welded together minus the door.  36 X36 X 29" high 1/4" thick.

 

 

Firebox dry fitted and ready for the hole to the CC to be cut. the wall on the back side closest to the wheel already insulated and capped.  Air intakes cut from the floor, 15x 7"

 

Rest of the outside framed with angle to hold the insulation. Also put in  2 1/2" tall firebrick on the bottom.  Framed out the air intakes.

 

 

2" insulation installed, capped off with 1/8" plate. inside bottom capped with 1/4" plate.

 

 

another view of the inside, with a view of the built in torch. 

 

 

The grate along over the air intakes.

 

And now, the my favorite part of this build.. the torch

 

 

More work to come, maybe Monday I will have more updates!

post #4 of 12

That FB is going to hold a lot of heat....   Think about upper air inlets to help move that heat to the Cook Chamber....

 

post #5 of 12

Always good to upgrade an old friend! Looks great so far!

post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 


Dave,

 

I see what you are talking about through your picture, but do not understand the science behind it.  Can you please explain?  I'm not an expert, and will take all feedback I can get.  I figured that the firebox opening to the cooking chamber and the 6" exhaust pipe would be enough to pull that heat into the chamber.

post #7 of 12

If the fire gets too hot, you have to shut off the air supply which stops heat / air from going through the CC...   you can just open the upper air inlet, which allows more air through the CC and reduces the air to the fire....    It's a fine tune tool..   It also allows for fresh air into the heat stream to burn off creosote and other combustibles that are produced from incomplete combustion.....

 

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/172425/standard-reverse-flow-smoker-calculator-by-daveomak-and-others-ready-to-use-rev5-6-19-15#post_1264161

post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 

I see what  you are talking about Dave. At this point I will revisit that if it comes down to it.  I want to get this pit finished in time for my next cookoff (in another month time) and I will tweak it after that if needed.  I appreciate the input and will consider if I see it needs it.

post #9 of 12
Thread Starter 
Well Dave let me ask you this. Does it matter where the upper air inlets are and what size will I need? I can easily put one or two 4 - 6" round inlets on the top of my door. That would put it about 6-7 inches from the top of the inside. Would that be ok or would I need to put it on the side opposite of the cc opening?
post #10 of 12

You need to click on the link I provided....

post #11 of 12
Thread Starter 

Thanks Dave, the more I'm thinking about it and the more research I do on it, the more I think I want to do it. I have 6" pipe available, according to the link you sent, I should be more than good with one vent. 

post #12 of 12

Typically, this is what folks do...

 

 

 

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Reverse Flow