Problem #1 SOLVED (see post 6)
I was unable to get ALL of the miserable BLACK SEALANT TAR &$^%#$%^ out:
-I used a putty knife
-I used acetone
-I used Lacquer Thinner
... I re-read forum post's... and found something I missed a: HEAT GUN.... Used that.. worked way better
-I then Pressure washed (that did almost next to nothing)
I came to the conclusion that this black sealant crud is in the folds of this fridge and unless I cut out/remove the bottom of the fridge, I will NOT be able to get it all... please see pictures and tell me what you think... how big of a problem is it?.
Problem #2 SOLVED (going with a single exhaust straight out the top of the back, either 2" or 3" I don't know which size yet)
I don't know what to do about the placement of the stack. I have seen TWO different designs. Design 1: has a stack straight out the TOP or one out the back from near the top. Design 2: has TWO outlets out the back One near the TOP and one in near the MIDDLE leading to the same stack. .. I want to do things RIGHT the first go around.
-If I did Design 2, I would use 2" black pipe out the back with a BALL VALVE on each outlet leading to the stack so I could control the flow and which outlet I want to use.... but.. is there a reason WHY I would want to shut off the TOP outlet and only use the Middle outlet?
Problem #3
Should I bother to use a face dial mechanical thermometer drilled through the side/back/door? If so, in what location? ALSO what location for the PID thermocouple? (middle, high, etc?) (I'll be using a Maverick 733 also....)
Problem #4
I still need to get a Door Gasket. I was going to probably get a Tadpole design one and use the screws on the door panel to secure it. I need about 12' and I have a .350" gap to fill.... so I assume a 3/8" gasket would be too loose and I'll need a 1/2" for a tight seal? Looking for the best options.
Aside from those issues, This is what I have cooking:
-Electric 115v 1500watt Brinkmann Heating Element.
-Bunch of stuff from CHINA off fleabay to build a PID that will be located in the bottom area.
-AMNPS that will be in a metal box, with a door that has intake dampeners which will also be in the lower area and a 2" pipe connecting it to the BOTTOM of the smoker area.
-Lowes with ROXUL is 1.5 hours from me ONE WAY... so I bought this other Thermafiber MINERAL WOOL Ultrabatt from Menards Made from mostly recycled stuff..... it must be better than the smelly fiberglass from 6 or 7 decades ago that was in there?
-Stainless Door skin from a VIKING Professional unit (.047" or 18 Gauge) that worked as an inner skin to the fridge door AND the remaining pieces were welded to the INNER shell of the Fridge.
-4 Chrome plated oven racks... that fit PERFECT... but I don't know what they came out of?
-Welded 1/4" grade 5 nuts to the inner fridge shell so that I can screw in stainless studs OR bolt in whatever I think of in the future.
I was unable to get ALL of the miserable BLACK SEALANT TAR &$^%#$%^ out:
-I used a putty knife
-I used acetone
-I used Lacquer Thinner
... I re-read forum post's... and found something I missed a: HEAT GUN.... Used that.. worked way better
-I then Pressure washed (that did almost next to nothing)
I came to the conclusion that this black sealant crud is in the folds of this fridge and unless I cut out/remove the bottom of the fridge, I will NOT be able to get it all... please see pictures and tell me what you think... how big of a problem is it?.
Problem #2 SOLVED (going with a single exhaust straight out the top of the back, either 2" or 3" I don't know which size yet)
I don't know what to do about the placement of the stack. I have seen TWO different designs. Design 1: has a stack straight out the TOP or one out the back from near the top. Design 2: has TWO outlets out the back One near the TOP and one in near the MIDDLE leading to the same stack. .. I want to do things RIGHT the first go around.
-If I did Design 2, I would use 2" black pipe out the back with a BALL VALVE on each outlet leading to the stack so I could control the flow and which outlet I want to use.... but.. is there a reason WHY I would want to shut off the TOP outlet and only use the Middle outlet?
Problem #3
Should I bother to use a face dial mechanical thermometer drilled through the side/back/door? If so, in what location? ALSO what location for the PID thermocouple? (middle, high, etc?) (I'll be using a Maverick 733 also....)
Problem #4
I still need to get a Door Gasket. I was going to probably get a Tadpole design one and use the screws on the door panel to secure it. I need about 12' and I have a .350" gap to fill.... so I assume a 3/8" gasket would be too loose and I'll need a 1/2" for a tight seal? Looking for the best options.
Aside from those issues, This is what I have cooking:
-Electric 115v 1500watt Brinkmann Heating Element.
-Bunch of stuff from CHINA off fleabay to build a PID that will be located in the bottom area.
-AMNPS that will be in a metal box, with a door that has intake dampeners which will also be in the lower area and a 2" pipe connecting it to the BOTTOM of the smoker area.
-Lowes with ROXUL is 1.5 hours from me ONE WAY... so I bought this other Thermafiber MINERAL WOOL Ultrabatt from Menards Made from mostly recycled stuff..... it must be better than the smelly fiberglass from 6 or 7 decades ago that was in there?
-Stainless Door skin from a VIKING Professional unit (.047" or 18 Gauge) that worked as an inner skin to the fridge door AND the remaining pieces were welded to the INNER shell of the Fridge.
-4 Chrome plated oven racks... that fit PERFECT... but I don't know what they came out of?
-Welded 1/4" grade 5 nuts to the inner fridge shell so that I can screw in stainless studs OR bolt in whatever I think of in the future.
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