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150 Gallon RF Trailer Build

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 

I am in the pre-planning stages of my 150gallon RF Trailer build.  So far I have a tank and a dream!


I have zero welding skills, but my brother is a Novice welder (small repairs on cars, fixed patio furniture, etc), so he will be doing most of the welding.  For safety's sake, we will get the big structural welds done by a pro, but to minimize cost, will do as much DIY as possible.


I have read pretty much the last 4 pages of threads, plus on other forums, but I have 2 outstanding questions (for now).


1) When talking about Chimney Pipe length, does that include the length inserted into the chamber?  IE a 40" pipe that sticks into the chamber by 6", is that considered 40" or 34" as 34" is outside the cooker?


2) As a completely inexperienced Fabricator, what is the easiest way to make the FB Intakes.  I am thinking cutting a big 3 X 6 hole on each side of FB with a slide.  And then another smaller one on the door for draft into the CC.  otherwise, I dont know how you guys are making the 2x2 holes, or drilling 3" circles without some heavy duty machinery.

post #2 of 17
Read this link... it will answer most if not all of your questions....
post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Thanks dave, why is that not a sticky?

Any guidance on my second question? What is the easiest way to create intake holes in the firebox?
post #4 of 17
Take a look at the hundreds of builds and see what folks have done about inlets to the FB....
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 
So, our door sprung, as we had expected, being only 1/8" thick steel tank. We used 1/4" strap for the flange to give it some more rigidity. We were able to clamp it to bend back most of the spring. Three corners are bang on, the fourth is sticking out about 3/4 inch. We tried a few times and this was the best we got... any ideas to fix it? As a last resort, we will use the pull type toggle clamps, but would prefer to fix it as opposed to having to clamp shut
post #6 of 17
post #7 of 17

Post some pics  that way we can see what you have and help in fixing the problem



post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 

Yes... sorry... I am bad at the "Break for a Pic" thing.  I have done it twice where I spend a few hours working and take nothing.  I had to get my dad to run out and grab this one.  The second is the same pic, just blown up.  Please ignore my horrible welds, as I said before I have zero experience (This is actually my first time).


The left side is perfect, but this side is spring at the bottom.  



post #9 of 17
Thread Starter 
Any thoughts?
post #10 of 17
Someone on here used a chain binder to "unwarp" their door..... Place a 1/2" or 3/4" piece of wood under the door between the hinge and the open bottom section... in the middle.... bind the door closed.... let it go and see what the results are.... if it is still agape, move the wood... go slow... you don't want to over correct..... then you can try a 1/4" thicker piece until you get it right......
Visually check the door to see if one spot in particular, is causing the door to be sprung, and work on that spot...

post #11 of 17
Thread Starter 
Sorry I haven't got back sooner, I have been out of the country for work. We dropped it off at the welding shop in town to get the firebox built and everything trailer mounted.

I like that idea Dave, but I don't have chain or chain binders on hand, do you think Healy duty ratchet straps would do the trick? Once I get it back from the shop, I will give it a try.
post #12 of 17

If you have it in a good fab/weld shop, they can correct that for you rather easily.  They fit metal for a living :icon_idea:

post #13 of 17
Straps have a lot of stretch... don't know but you can give it a try......
post #14 of 17
Your going to need some handles anyway. Trace the radius of the cc next to the door that you need to match up to. Fab two plates to match the radius and weld them onto the door to hold the door "rolled correctly"

Like this
post #15 of 17
Next time do that before you cut the door
post #16 of 17
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the excellent replies. I got the trailer back, and started out with ribwizzard'a suggestion, so I made cardboard template to match the radius, then I lined it up with the door and had a WTF moment. The template was bang on, indicating that door was perfect curvature.

I pondered it about 10 minutes trying to figure it out. How could it be the same curve, but be out by an inch??

It was my stupid hinges. The hinges are flat, so when I tightened the bolts, it pulled the bottom of the door up. As soon as I loosened the bolts, the door settled right in. It's now just a hair out, maybe 1/32" of a gap, just enough for daylight. Is this worth trying to fix now, or should I just get some of the high temp gasket sealant and fix it later after paint? I am leaning towards later.
post #17 of 17
Thread Starter 
Got some more work done, welded in the rails for bottom rack, and the firebox wood rack. I realized that the RF plate won't fit between the rails, so I am going to have to grind one out and re-weld.

I cut the hole for drain, and welded a black iron coupling so I can remove the drain pipe if I ever need to rinse the bottom of smoker. I am feeling more competent in welding, haven't burned through anything in a while, lol. By the time I finish, I might be not horrible.

Sorry about the over exposure on pics, was working right up to sunset for light, so my pics suffered.
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