You might put a lug on the ground wire and secure it under the nut.... and wrap the frayed insulation or put heat shrink on it.... just so it looks professional...
MES 30" not working after replacing element - help!
- Thread starter husker3in4
- Start date
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texascoast
Fire Starter
Husker3in4,
I used J-B Weld, 8265S, it comes with two tubes, one is black the other is white, you will need to mix equal parts from each tube.
Then apply the mix onto the two surfaces, set the position of the TCS and the Flange and let them dry for 24hours.
Remember you are just trying to get the TCS to extend into the Smoker box so that it can get a good temperature reading for safety purposes.
I think the original TCS part extended something like 2-3 millimeters into the smoker unit. I would look at the original TCS you pulled from your unit to verify this...
Your Ground wire question:
Electrical tape would probably not work for long because of the heat of the unit at that location!
The main thing on the ground is the actual wire itself, if it looks good and the wire strands are not broken you should be good.
You can buy heat shrink tubing to cover the frayed wire covering to make it look "cleaner".
Have you actually tried to see if the Smoker with the new TCS installed will come on and heat up?
I used J-B Weld, 8265S, it comes with two tubes, one is black the other is white, you will need to mix equal parts from each tube.
Then apply the mix onto the two surfaces, set the position of the TCS and the Flange and let them dry for 24hours.
Remember you are just trying to get the TCS to extend into the Smoker box so that it can get a good temperature reading for safety purposes.
I think the original TCS part extended something like 2-3 millimeters into the smoker unit. I would look at the original TCS you pulled from your unit to verify this...
Your Ground wire question:
Electrical tape would probably not work for long because of the heat of the unit at that location!
The main thing on the ground is the actual wire itself, if it looks good and the wire strands are not broken you should be good.
You can buy heat shrink tubing to cover the frayed wire covering to make it look "cleaner".
Have you actually tried to see if the Smoker with the new TCS installed will come on and heat up?
wa0auu
Fire Starter
What you are calling a temp control switch is really just a safety, if the smoker gets over what ever the temp that switch is set for, it " opens" and will turn the smoker off, that smoker will work without that. In a pinch you could just put the two wires together. In the refrigeration game, that safety switch is known as a " clicks on " ( I have done my own refrigeration work work many years )
- Feb 24, 2015
- 212
- 24
I went to my local walmart to check out the JB Weld, they had several kinds, but the standard JB Weld was, of course, out of stock.
Do I need that specific kind, or will the JB KWIK or one of these others work?
Do I need that specific kind, or will the JB KWIK or one of these others work?
texascoast
Fire Starter
Husker3in4,
I have never used any of the other J-B Weld products!
Whatever you use it will need to be one that works with "High Temperature areas".
I would imagine the ones for plastic would not work....
You might try an Auto parts store, the version I use can be used on engine blocks or radiators.
I have never used any of the other J-B Weld products!
Whatever you use it will need to be one that works with "High Temperature areas".
I would imagine the ones for plastic would not work....
You might try an Auto parts store, the version I use can be used on engine blocks or radiators.
- Feb 24, 2015
- 212
- 24
Ok, no worries. Ill find the regular stuff at another walmart or at an auto parts store. Once I get it "Cold welded", does it matter how I connect the wires? As in, is there a positive or negative side i need to pay attention to?
texascoast
Fire Starter
No, the wire connection is not an issue with the TCS device, remember it acts like a temperature fuse, if the internal Temp of the smoker unit gets over about 301deg Fahrenheit the TCS will open up and the unit will stop working!
Just make sure your TCS wire connections are very clean and good, all current to the heating element goes through this device!
This is where I used "Lead free Solder" once I crimped the wire connectors onto the TCS.
Just make sure your TCS wire connections are very clean and good, all current to the heating element goes through this device!
This is where I used "Lead free Solder" once I crimped the wire connectors onto the TCS.
- Feb 24, 2015
- 212
- 24
Ok, I should be able to handle this part pretty well, most likely will get to it tomorrow or friday. the other question was the ground wire. Can you look at the pic below and tell me if this is how yours is attached to the heating element?
The metal plate would then go over this, then the rubber cover. I just want to make sure the wire is going in correctly.
The metal plate would then go over this, then the rubber cover. I just want to make sure the wire is going in correctly.
texascoast
Fire Starter
Ok, mine looks a little different!
As you can see mine has a small metal box where the Ground wire and the two wires for the Heating Element come together.
You will see the ground wire nut in the center of box (a piece of white paper behind it) it exits the small metal box with one of the black power wires. It then connects to the power cord of the unit.
The Power wire have crimp on connectors which have been soldered in place, then I used heat shrink tubing to protect the connections.
As you can see mine has a small metal box where the Ground wire and the two wires for the Heating Element come together.
You will see the ground wire nut in the center of box (a piece of white paper behind it) it exits the small metal box with one of the black power wires. It then connects to the power cord of the unit.
The Power wire have crimp on connectors which have been soldered in place, then I used heat shrink tubing to protect the connections.
- Feb 24, 2015
- 212
- 24
Well actually urs looks very similar to mine, I just dont have the back plate on when I took the picture. Can you confirm which model you have? It should be printed on a silver plate on the back outside wall of the smoker body.
Mine is # 2070910
Mine is # 2070910
texascoast
Fire Starter
- Feb 24, 2015
- 212
- 24
Im only reviving this in case someone has the same problem. Mine is now solved and I have been smoking with it for the past couple of months. The problem was in fact the little round temperature shutoff sensor that shuts off if the smoker gets too hot. Once it trips the smoker wont work anymore until you replace it. Im not sure if the element acted up to trip the switch or what, but in the process it fried the wire that went from the safety temp shutoff sensor to the element. So, to make a long story short, I replaced the temp shutoff sensor (can get em cheap at amazon.. think it was less than $5 for 2) and replaced the wire that fried with hi temp wire and now it works like a charm. If anyone needs help with their issue, I can try to help and provide the part and link if I can find it.
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