First UDS (mini) build

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manfjourde

Fire Starter
Original poster
Mar 8, 2015
63
15
Utah
I built a mini-WSM in a few hours and love it but wanted something a bit bigger.

Well, I got a new 30 gallon drum from Zoro tools for a decent price and did a burn and painted but the primer I used was high heat and the paint was high heat grill paint, both by Rustoleum. The paint never really hardened and could be easily scratched off but upon looking at the can it stated it was to not be used with primer. Anyway, I asked a few questions but thought I would just do a build thread and post questions and updates here.

Here are links to the other 2 threads with the questions.
http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/183790/can-i-season-my-drum#post_1340968

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/184516/sandblast-seasoned-uds#post_1345021

I called a few places for blasting prices and found one that is owned by some parents of students I teach (I'm an elementary teacher) and the dad offered to do it for free! I'm so stoked so I'll take him some Rockstars as a thanks (he loves them) and hopefully some Q when it's all done. I'll try to get some pics of the progress too and ask questions.
 
Another thing to look at when you go to repaint is most high temp paints also needs to cure at higher temps for a period of time.
 
In definitely going to follow the process to the T. I did do a bit of curing but I'll gonna use the weed burner to heat it a bit and help cure.
 
Others have had problems with Rustoleum in the spray can. It's my understanding the brush on works better. For higher temp paints look at your local auto parts store. Header paint is the best route to go.
 
Good to know on the brushing vs cans. I was planning on getting some header paint - do I need a header primer too or can I just use the paint?
 
Depends on the manufacturer. The brand that I have used did not require primer.
Good to know, thanks. 

I have 4 1" holes drilled with a hole saw but am unsure what to do to regulate air. I don't love the nipple/ball approach because I think i'll stub my toes but when I put a free magnet on when I seasoned it it melted lol. Are there any other good methods to do this?
 
Honestly to get the best control on your airflow having valved inlets is the way to go.

You could make metal flaps that you can screw on and rotate to close or open the hole.
 
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You could use a fitting like this with a cap:

636660204009lg.jpg


Or this style (I have two of these in addition to my ball valve)

636660714096lg.jpg


The only problem with this style is they are either opened or closed.
 
I just picked up some "close" nipples like the first pic along with some caps and a ball valve.

I also got some conduit nuts - do they need to soak in vinegar or something to remove the coating?

And...what is the best order to install the intake parts on the drum and each other?
 
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I was able to drill the holes tight enough to thread the nipples into the drum without the need for a conduit ring. If you drilled the holes too large and have to use one, you could burn the coating off with a torch.
 
Cool, I'll give it a shot when I have it back. Tonight is welding night with my bro-in-law, we"re gonna weld a few baskets that I can throw in storage because I know I'll be building more of these in the future too.
 
Well I picked up my barrel from blasting and it looks great with basically no surface rust. I hope to pick up paint tomorrow and get on it this weekend.



I then scored a deal at Lowes and got 8 bags (20 lb each) for $39 after tax! I love slickdeals.net and scoring deals which is where I saw the deal on charcoal.


Then I went to my bro-in-law's and welded 2 baskets. We tried welding the basket for the mini-WSM but the expanded steel was too thin so I will be using wire or getting thicker expanded. Bending that 3/4" was a pain, I used my weed torch and it helped. One basket is 10.5" and the other is 12" high which should work in the mini UDS and then a full size UDS in the future.



What do you suggest for a grommet for a Maverick ET-732? I am thinking the slot that is cut at the top, some rubber grommets from Maverick, or the lamp grommet. Thoughts?

Now I just need some meat..
 
You can weld the 18 gauge expanded from HD and Lowes for the mini Baskets. If using MIG you just need to turn down the AMPs and watch closely so you don't burn through. I'll be using two sheets tonight to make a new basket for my UDS. I'll post some photos. Here's a basket  Iwelded up for one of the mini-wsm's out of 18 gauge.

 
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Well I picked up some rebar wire for the mini-WSM for now and got some flat Rustoleum and did what ribwizzard says to do for painting it. this is during 2 coats. It had a bit of surface rust in the small pores of the blasted steel but worked well as an etcher. I heated the inside to about 160*F, let it cool to 100*F and did 4 light coats, 1 every 15 mins. 


I soaked the conduit nuts in vinegar/lemon juice and then burned them with the weed burner for a bit. They went milky white and a bit yellow. Is that bad?

 
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You may find you don't need the conduit nuts anyway. I would have done the same thing you did and torched them. I'm sure they are fine now. What are you going to use for ash pans under your baskets?
 
I was thinking of using the lid from the Imusa pot - it's about 1/2" tall, I may give that a shot and if it's too shallow I'll hunt for something else.
 
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