Masterbuilt 30" smoker power cord repair

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The board is likely fiberglass or similar, and should not be bothered by the heat.

Soldering it is the proper solution. There may be some sort of adhesive you could try to use, but if so, I'm not aware of one. If desperate, you could try maybe spreading the pins a bit, to try and keep them in electrical contact with the board, and epoxy the connector to the board. But that would be kind of a last-ditch approach, in my opinion, it's really not the proper way to fix this.

This could be a bit tricky to solder, if you didn't have access to the metal contacts on/within the board.

Do the posts stick through beyond the back side of the board? If the posts stick out past the back of the board, that might make things easier. How are the others similar connectors attached, on the back side? Are there visible blobs of solder on the back of the board, where those attach? If so, that's good, that means you'll hopefully have access to the board's metal contacts from behind the board.

You can likely get a little soldering iron for around $10. One example:


You'll need rosin-core solder as well, or else plain solder and separate flux. The rosin core is the flux, which helps clean the connections, and lets the solder stick better. I prefer solder with lead, rather than the lead-free solder (solder with lead is easier to work with, and melts at a lower temperature).
 
The board is likely fiberglass or similar, and should not be bothered by the heat.

Soldering it is the proper solution. There may be some sort of adhesive you could try to use, but if so, I'm not aware of one. If desperate, you could try maybe spreading the pins a bit, to try and keep them in electrical contact with the board, and epoxy the connector to the board. But that would be kind of a last-ditch approach, in my opinion, it's really not the proper way to fix this.

This could be a bit tricky to solder, if you didn't have access to the metal contacts on/within the board.

Do the posts stick through beyond the back side of the board? If the posts stick out past the back of the board, that might make things easier. How are the others similar connectors attached, on the back side? Are there visible blobs of solder on the back of the board, where those attach? If so, that's good, that means you'll hopefully have access to the board's metal contacts from behind the board.

You can likely get a little soldering iron for around $10. One example:

https://www.amazon.com/Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Precision-Indicator/dp/B071S5Z1R2/ref=sr_1_19?s=hi&ie=UTF8

You'll need rosin-core solder as well, or else plain solder and separate flux. The rosin core is the flux, which helps clean the connections, and lets the solder stick better. I prefer solder with lead, rather than the lead-free solder (solder with lead is easier to work with, and melts at a lower temperature).
I agree soldering is the way to go especially in close proximity to heat. I solder pigtail heating element terminals with 100% tin resin core my grandfather had. It takes a little time with 14 guage wire and the high heat quick disconnect to heat enough to melt the tin solder with a 100w soldering gun. Lead is easiler to work with.
-Kurt
 
Looks like you did the job correctly . Only thing i would add is when you are using the unit please grab the cord every now and then to check for over heating. MES uses 14 gauge wire which is borderline good for the short cord.that is on the unit. When i had to replace my cord i went up to 12 gauge and stainless connecters .
  If the cord seems to be getting hot you may want to open the unit back up and go to a larger size wire.
 @110 v. the 800 watt unit draws 7.57 amps  110 v 1200 watts is close to 10 amp draw.
14 gauge is rated for 15 amps. so as long as nothing else is drawing from that circut you should be okay but i would still check the cable the first few times you use the MES.
Old post I know bit this very cool as I need to do this myself. Awsome share thanks.
 
so after putting new cord on the smoker seems to keep getting hotter even though the heating light is off the temp keeps tad ing on the gauge
 
with just smoker racks will it run hotter and continue to climb in temp or should it sit right at set temp?
MES behavior is to overshoot hour set temp and then it will fall below your set temp and repeat that behavior.  

Your set temp is basically better described as the average temp your smoker will have with the overshoots and the temp drops below the set temp.  Provided your smoker hits and exceeds the set temp, my MES wouldn't hit 275F much less overshoot it.

I rewired and used the HeaterMeter PID controller and now it does whatever I want with little issue :)

Best of luck :)
 
so after putting new cord on the smoker seems to keep getting hotter even though the heating light is off the temp keeps tad ing on the gauge
Over what sort of time frame, and what is the set temperature?

If it's set to 150F, your thermometer is reading 160F, the heating light goes out, and your thermometer rises to a peak of 165F, that wouldn't sound weird to me. There are temperature over-shoots, and thermometers also have a response time. So even if you unplug it while heating, a thermometer will likely keep showing a rise in temperature for some period of time (5? 10 minutes? not 2 hours).

But if you set it to 150F, and it's climbed to 225F, and it's still getting higher, then something is wrong. *Especially* if the heating light is off. The relay or something may have failed, so that the heater is never actually cycling on/off, and is just staying on, regardless of the setpoint.
 
it goes for about 10-15 mins maybe 10 degrees higher it probably always did and I'm just paying attention to it now because I redid the power cord
 
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