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MES 30 element voltage issues

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 

Hi all

 

Just replaced my 800 watt element with a new one from Masterbuilt no problem there but now I have 110 volts on the element  but it doesn't get hot .checked all wires and connections continuity on element is good my ? is could the control board on the bottom be bad ? all the wires are good there as well   I'm scratchen my head on this one .Called Masterbuilt  and they said they will no sell me that board because they don't have them for a replacement part but will sell me a complete box minus the door for a bunch of money.

 

Any help would be get

 

Thanks

post #2 of 14

Yes the control board could be bad. I don't know for sure that it is but it could be. What did Masterbuilt say?

I see this is your first post. When you get a chance will you drop by roll call so everyone can give you a proper SMF :welcome1:?

Happy smoken.

David

post #3 of 14
Time to bypass the MES controller and install a "Stand Alone" controller.... they work better than the OEM controller anyway... There are several manufacturers out there... PID's are the top of the line... several threads on here describing them.....
I use a 1500 watt dimmer switch to control the heat output of my heating element.... I'm not smart enough to even spell "PID"....
post #4 of 14

Perhaps if you call MB back you'll get another CSR who will give you another answer hopefully more to your liking. I've worked in call centers and many times it's all in who takes your call.

post #5 of 14
Thread Starter 

@ Daveomak I'd like to stay with MES if I can ,I like the remote monitoring for it with temperature and probe.... 

 

@ daricksta   I will be calling again to discuss my options on this that's for sure ....

post #6 of 14
If you hook up the element to a controller, and leave the MES plugged in..... all the other stuff should work... the element and controls are on 2 separate circuits...
post #7 of 14
You could have a faulty over-temp snap switch... it is the round looking button on the back wall....
post #8 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by mazakbill View Post
 

Hi all

 

Just replaced my 800 watt element with a new one from Masterbuilt no problem there but now I have 110 volts on the element  but it doesn't get hot .checked all wires and connections continuity on element is good my ? is could the control board on the bottom be bad ? all the wires are good there as well   I'm scratchen my head on this one .Called Masterbuilt  and they said they will no sell me that board because they don't have them for a replacement part but will sell me a complete box minus the door for a bunch of money.

 

Any help would be get

 

Thanks


Bill,

There are also a bunch of other web sites that sell MES replacement parts. You  need your model number, and you can do a search, but I would see if you can get what you need from Masterbuilt first, plus make sure what is causing the problem.

 

Here's just one of many sites:

http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/gasgrillparts/brands/masterbuilt/masterbuilt-controls.html

 

 

Bear

post #9 of 14
Thread Starter 

Checked over temp and i have voltage going thru , when power is on and all other functions work like setting temp ,time probe temp light inside smoker , what pizzles me is I have the 110 voltage going to one side on element and it comes out the other side but I'm guessing I'm missing circuit.I think I am going to take the output side of element and run a wire to the common side of the power cord and see if it heats up I think that will tell me if that controller board on the bottom is got something wrong with it.:icon_question:  :eek:

post #10 of 14
Check the OHMs resistance on the element... with the power off and element unhooked...
( For your info: The 800 watt element had 21 OHMS resistance.)
That is what I measured when I did a mod to my MES... The element was fairly new.....
post #11 of 14
Thread Starter 

O.K I will do that tonight and see what it is Thanks that should tell me if that is bad even though its a brand new element from masterbuilt I am also going to hook up a wire on the output side of the element and run it to the common side of the power cord to see if the element get hot ,then that would tell me maybe that control card has issues.Thanks  :icon_question:  :icon_eek:

post #12 of 14
Thread Starter 

Well after more checking and double checking it turns out it was the overtemp button switch that DaveOmak was talking about ,when I checked it the first time and had all the wires hooked up on the control board  I seem to remember getting voltage on both sides of the overtemp switch but when I unplugged the wire that goes to control board from the one side on the switch and then checked voltage i had nothing on that side only had voltage coming out of the element and up to the switch and nothing coming out the other side.Cut the wires on switch spiced with a wire nut and turned on and wallaa the element starts getting hot :yahoo:So I call Masterbuilt to get a new switch and guess what they don't sell them only way to get it is  to buy a new box which is that they said before with the controller Thumbs Down . So I ended up getting the box minus the door from them because the price they sold it to me for I couldn't refuse .so I'll keep my old one for parts or maybe make a door for it see if I can find a overtemp switch  and keep it for a backup thumb.gif

post #13 of 14
Your smoker should take a "Normally Closed", 275 Deg. F automatic resetting, surface mount, snap switch.... Solder it to the existing wiring.... pop rivet it in place and you should be good to go.....


http://www.cpi-nj.com/thermal-switches/snapstat-0f-300f/surface-mount
post #14 of 14
Thread Starter 

Thanks a bunch DaveOmak I'll get one ordered ,I figured someone has replaced theses with aftermarket ones on this forum and would lead me in the right direction .thumb1.gif  

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