1920 Frigidaire refrigerator

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Yes it has a wood frame. 2x4 construction.  Is that a bad thing? Now I'm getting nervous. There was 1/8 partical board then tar, 4" of insulation then tar again on refrigerator cavity. Thanks for

everyone's input.

 
I read his build and reread again. I didn't see that he opened it up and removed old insulation. I was planning on removing all insulation and tar from the wood and fridge cavity. Will that not be enough? That's why I was concerned about using this fridge after i seen that build. And this is why I'm on here to learn and ask for help. If wood frame isn't safe what should i do next? Thanks for you info.
 
are you going to line the inside with anything in particular ?? thinking the wood will be fine with the proper insulation and liner ...
 
 
I read his build and reread again. I didn't see that he opened it up and removed old insulation. I was planning on removing all insulation and tar from the wood and fridge cavity. Will that not be enough? That's why I was concerned about using this fridge after i seen that build. And this is why I'm on here to learn and ask for help. If wood frame isn't safe what should i do next? Thanks for you info.

Did you also read where he heated it up to 425 deg. The reason his burnt was he did not remove the old paper backed insulation and got it hot enough to ignite the paper. You should not have this problem cause you have learned from his mistake and are insuring that there is nothing flammable in the walls of your smoker yes the would is combustible but with the lack of air in the walls you would have to get the wood way hotter than you what you will ever get. This is another reason I would not fire this type of smoker with gas or charcoal, It has a wood frame and if your fire gets out of control it could spell disaster. I would go with a PID controlled electric burner for heat. With the proper insulation {like Roxul} I would feel comfortable taking your smoker into the 300 to 350 deg. range if I wanted to {and I never do} smoke something that hot.

Keep Smokin!!!

Wolf
 
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You should be ok with the wood, make sure that where ever the electric element is put that it does NOT have wood on the other side or within several inches of it..  The walls might be ok, but when those element heat up the glow until the smoker hits the set temp.

Might be easier to replace the wood, or find another way to frame it with out the wood. 

But id agree with Wolfman, if there is no air in the walls the wood will be fine. Roxul insulation is the way to go. 

Each build comes with its own barriers, there is always somehting to figure out.lol
 
Thanks Wolf and Mike for your comments. I am feeling more confident on this fridge build. Was getting worried about the wood and the other guy burning his up.

So today i finished pulling out Insulation, was a pain. The black tar or epoxy is not coming out that easy. Some spots it 1/2" thick other spots 1" thick.  I'm chipping it out with a screw driver and hammer. I've tried wire wheel, epoxy removable wheel and just binds it up. Was wondering

about sandblasting the case, or just stick to hammer and chisel? Thanks -Andrew


 
 
Took advantage of warmer temps today. Had a successful Day .Went and got a good scraper/chisel and went to town removing all tar/epoxy. Nice and clean now. Removed cavity and started sanding and removing residue from wood. Almost there. Now figuring what electric element to go with and PIR. Now whats easist way to cut hole for smoke stack. I have a 1 1/2 hole there just wanna go to 3".
here is what i accomplished today.



 
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Looking good!! I would definitely go with 3" vent. The hard part is cutting the 3" hole. Where is the existing 1.5" hole located? You could go with 2 1.5" holes if you wanted, and if it would look OK.
 
if you have a shop that does exhaust work in your area, see if they have or can get these 3" collectors and make sure its long enough to make it outside your fridge so he can make a piece to slip   over that piece outside then.. hightemp silicone that collector in the inside and put your damper in the piece outside and all done... 

 
 
For cutting the holes I found that a bi-metal hole saw worked great.  Tough with the size of the hole there already you might have trouble keeping it a decent looking cut.  

Best Option for a clean and easy cut is to put a piece of sheet metal over the existing hole and secure with a couple sheet metal screws so you can start with a clean guide for the bit. 

Use the screws from the inside with some silicone sealant on them before tightening. to seal the holes. 
 
Hello all,  Haven't been here in awhile. I had moved and just been busy getting situated. I am still working on my smoker build. I had drilled my 3" hole for my exhaust. What i am wondering would i be able to use 3" round Aluminum tubing? I had it laying around from another project. Make my own baffle too? Thanks and going full bore on this. I can't wait to start smokin!!
 
Also ordering all part today. The inside of my cavity is 23 1/2" the heating element i want is 21". Question is how much clearance do i need to the walls. This is the one i was thing of.

http://www.grainger.com/product/TEMPCO-Heater-2XDZ6?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP

This is the PID control i was thinking?

http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3

This is the 25A SSR I was going with? Do i need 1 or 2 of them? I see some using 1 and 2 of them?

http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=9

This is the K Type Thermocouple (6 ft. cable) I was thing about going with.

http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=2

I already got my Dual-Row Barrier Strip and my box.

Then also going with this A-MAZE-N-PELLET-SMOKER 5X8

http://www.amazenproducts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=AMNPS5X8

So these are what i was thing of going with? What do you all think? Thanks for helping me in advance!!
 
Hello all, back at it. So i took my door apart and removed all insulation and the construction of it wood. Do i need to be concerned about this? I'm hoping not. I just don't want any fires. My next Question is the gasket material. What can i use to replace old gasket. Old gasket isn't rubber but i am gonna replace it. Could I use Fire blanket make strips and secure or? Here is a pic of the door. Any advice is greatly appreciated!! thanks all

 
Fan no, airflow yes. I am using a finned strip heater in my current build.
I used a sink drain under neath the strip heater. It will act as air flow, I'll have a ball valve connected to help control it, and it also will be a drain for cleaning
 
I'm going to use 1 1/2" steel pipe from a local hardware store that threads on perfectly to the drain so it will extend the drain down and add and elbow so it will reach to the back of the fridge underneath making it easy to reach and use the ball valve.
 
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