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Propane tank build - Page 3

post #41 of 95
Thread Starter 

post #42 of 95

That clamp does look like it is in good shape and the lug looks like it is tinned. Lets go from the other end, are you using a direct plug into at least a 20 amp circuit and no extension cord to the machine? Those machines are very sensitive to voltage drop on the input side.

post #43 of 95
Thread Starter 
Len you probably just figured it out. I'm using an extension chord but it's an 8 gauge (I believe.. It's about three times the size of a normal one). But that's probably the problem. Guess I'll try to move the work into my garage
post #44 of 95
Thread Starter 
I didn't even think about the chord........
post #45 of 95

It would be easy enough to check out with a couple of pieces of metal and a quick trip! Keep me posted. I run my little machine on 30amp circuit.

post #46 of 95
Thread Starter 

Len I tried it without the chord.  Seems to be doing a lot better...  This is going to be a pain in my butt to move this smoker inside my garage.  I guess the next step in the build will be putting wheels on it.  lol

post #47 of 95

Most solved problems end up causing another...... but glad that part is done! Can you run another circuit from the breaker box? I have done this for temporary work and just rolled the wire up at night, its not hard to add a breaker and you can size it for a welder with nothing else on the circuit.

post #48 of 95
Thread Starter 

Len yes I could add a breaker just for welding.  But I would have to go buy the wire and breaker and I'm sure my wife wouldn't be to happy with me doing that.  I just realized I have a plug outside about 20 feet from where I'm working on it.  So I'll just move it over there.  I just need to figure out how I'm going to fix this door.  Its warped about 1/2 inch at the bottom any suggestions.  SmokinGunny suggested getting latches to pull it closed.  I might try that or maybe some straps with a torch?  Could I get it hot enough to bend back?

post #49 of 95

I couldn't find the thread that showed how one of the guys did it but he took a piece of wood, closed the door with the wood in the middle and pulled it down from the outside with a ratchet strap. Another took the door off and took a chain and wrapped it around the door and jacked between the chain and the door to pull the ends down. Also saw where a guy ran some beads of weld on the inside of the door which pulled the bottom down, there are a couple of ways to skin that cat.

post #50 of 95
Thread Starter 

I wonder if I built a big fire in it and then closed the door and ratched it down with the wood if that would work...

post #51 of 95
Thread Starter 

would not wood.. hahaha

post #52 of 95
Thread Starter 
. So I thought I was goi to cut my ends out like this but it seems my tank isn't 100% round ( note the difference in the pencil line vs the the marker line on the right.
post #53 of 95
Thread Starter 
. So I decide to just cut the circles out. I do have a question though. My opening per the calculator is 5.5 inches for chord
post #54 of 95
Thread Starter 
Well I don't know how that posted but it did. Lol. Anyways my opening is 5.5 for segment height Ed using the circle calculator. If I'm making a football shape is that still right? Or do I need to make my top cut straight?
post #55 of 95
Thread Starter 
. Those are my figures.
post #56 of 95

Using the calculator above, what is the FB/CC opening.....

If you are making the FB round, and need to fit it up to a round CC, the "football" shape works well....

In the calculator, it explains how to adjust for 1/2 FB/CC calculation.... for each half of the football shape.....

I haven't seen any numbers or how you calculated this new smoker.... If you are comfortable with your work... cool.... If you want someone to look it over... there are many members willing to take the time to help.... Making an error during the build is.. head-wall.gif... and will tick you off forever....
post #57 of 95
Thread Starter 

Dave thanks for the advice.  Smokingunny actually helped me with my measurements but I will post them on here for anyone to help and chime in.  The cook chamber is 43 inches long with a 23inch diameter.  The FB is going to be 20 inches with the same 23inch diameter.  So any advice on this I greatly appreciate.  You all have been amazing giving information during this build I really appreciate the help!

post #58 of 95
Originally Posted by Curtisimo81 View Post

Well I don't know how that posted but it did. Lol. Anyways my opening is 5.5 for segment height Ed using the circle calculator. If I'm making a football shape is that still right? Or do I need to make my top cut straight?

The football "height" should be 7".... that will give you about 80 sq. in. opening between the FB and CC.... Continue that height under the RF plate and use those numbers for the end of the RF plate also...
Some folks have trouble understanding my reasoning and how I calculate stuff.... 5.5 is correct if you have a "flat topped" opening.... not for a football shape...
I'd hate to see you build this thing with one miscalculated number.... The football shape opening is explained in the calculator I linked for you....

post #59 of 95
Thread Starter 

Thanks for the advice Dave.  It makes sense now.  So now for my reverse flow plate, using the circle calculator my measurement for chord AB comes to 19.9  Is it ok to just make my plate 20 inches wide and take 7 inches off for length of my over CC since its 43 inches long that would make my reverse flow plate 20 x 36 correct?

post #60 of 95
I used 11.25 for the radius..... Then I plugged back in the 7" seg. hgt. ED for the new football shape opening.... The RF plate has to be ABOVE the football... Sooo, that gives the Chord AB 20.833 inches .... so the RF plate should be 21" wide and 38" long would work.... that leaves 105 sq. in. opening at the end.... 25% larger than the FB/CC opening...
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