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Leak repair advice....I made my lid worse

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 

:hit:

 

So I got all fancy with my new cooker shed/carport and added a chimney and duct.  Well, while I was at it, I decided to do a thorough deep clean inside my cooker chamber.  Pulled all the parts and pieces out, scraped and vaccuumed.  I decided to go ahead and apply a new seal to my lid of the cooker chamber.  Scraped the old seal off, wire wheeled the lip & cleaned the lip with alcohol/rag for about 30 minutes.  Bought some real expensive high temp from Auto Zone and layed a bead.

 

The first time I applied a seal, I layed the bead around the edge and then applied cooking spray on the outside of the cooking chamber so that when I sat the lid back down on its own weight to "self seal", it wouldnt stick to the other surface.  Once done, I used a razor and cleaned up the edges.  Worked pretty good since this January!

 

This time I changed it up a bit.  I layed a bead of high temp and left the lid open to cure all the way.  I thought that since I got lever locks on the bottom of my lid, it would lock it down tight enough to prevent loss of heat/smoke...........not the case fellas.

 

By the naked eye, my surfaces look very straight.  My bead does too.  Now it releases way more heat and smoke out of the bottom side of the lid.  Please enlighten me of ya'lls experiences and methods of correction/enhancement on this process.  What did you guys have the best luck with on this issue?

 

post #2 of 11

Scrape it off and redo it the same way you did last time.

happy smoken.

David

post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by themule69 View Post
 

Scrape it off and redo it the same way you did last time.

happy smoken.

David

Ah man......I knew someone was gonna say that.  Live and learn I guess :)

post #4 of 11

I was planning on using this stuff:                      eBay item number:181364894013

 

It may not stick since there is silicone on there already, hardly anything sticks to silicone except more silicone....

 

I've seen folks using cling wrap or shipping tape on the cook chamber for the new silicone to cure against. 

post #5 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by throttlejunkie1 View Post
 

Ah man......I knew someone was gonna say that.  Live and learn I guess :)

If it works keep doing it.

Happy smoken.

David

post #6 of 11

Use Lava-Lock Nomex adhesive gasket.  It has a uniform thickness.  Order the thickness that matches the size of your gap without a gasket (or ever so slightly thicker).  It does a great job of sealing, and is easy to apply.

post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Addertooth View Post
 

Use Lava-Lock Nomex adhesive gasket.  It has a uniform thickness.  Order the thickness that matches the size of your gap without a gasket (or ever so slightly thicker).  It does a great job of sealing, and is easy to apply.

Isn't this for a uniform gap?

Happy smoken.

David

post #8 of 11

   Yes, it is for a uniform gap.  A soft faced hammer is used to "true" your metal to get all the gap uniform.  Then apply the lava-lock.  If the hinge area is a different gap than the rest, order two thicknesses of lava-lock.  I have even doubled up on the 1/8th inch stuff to fill extra thick gaps, and used an electric razor to "mow the lawn" of the pile to accommodate areas where the gap needs to taper. 

   If I had to work with liquid silicone, I would put Teflon tape on one surface with 3M contact cement (on the side where you do not want it to adhere), then liberally apply the goo.  Close the lid (but not cinch it down to the ultimate tightness) and let the goo smash out to form to the right thickness.  After it cures, open the lid, and peel off the Teflon plumbing tape.  Clean the surface where the 3M contact cement tacked the Teflon tape in place, and rock and roll.  But, simply put, Lava-Lock is just much easier.

post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by throttlejunkie1 View Post

hit.gif


By the naked eye, my surfaces look very straight.  My bead does too.  Now it releases way more heat and smoke out of the bottom side of the lid.  Please enlighten me of ya'lls experiences and methods of correction/enhancement on this process.  What did you guys have the best luck with on this issue?




Sounds like the gasket on the top of the door is holding it open at the bottom of the door.... One way to solve that problem is close the door, cut the hinges loose and reweld.... with the door held closed tightly... or, heat the hinge to allow it to come to a new position....
Welding hinges on, with no gasket, makes the door not fit too well when gaskets are applied....
post #10 of 11

Throttlejunkie , I have found that on a rig like yours , just letting the smoke residue accumulate on the edges is enough. A few smokes and it doesn't leak . Unless the lid was bent or miss made :icon_eek:.

 

JMHO , have fun and . . .

  Smoke out the stack and FB :biggrin:.

 

Have fun and . . .

post #11 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by throttlejunkie1 View Post
 

Ah man......I knew someone was gonna say that.  Live and learn I guess :)

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by LenDecaturAL View Post
 

I was planning on using this stuff:                      eBay item number:181364894013

 

It may not stick since there is silicone on there already, hardly anything sticks to silicone except more silicone....

 

I've seen folks using cling wrap or shipping tape on the cook chamber for the new silicone to cure against. 

 

 

Thanks for the advice!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by themule69 View Post
 

If it works keep doing it.

Happy smoken.

David

 

If its not broke dont fix it....I'm pickin up what your puttin down :beercheer:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Addertooth View Post
 

Use Lava-Lock Nomex adhesive gasket.  It has a uniform thickness.  Order the thickness that matches the size of your gap without a gasket (or ever so slightly thicker).  It does a great job of sealing, and is easy to apply.

 

Thanks! researching now

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveOmak View Post


Sounds like the gasket on the top of the door is holding it open at the bottom of the door.... One way to solve that problem is close the door, cut the hinges loose and reweld.... with the door held closed tightly... or, heat the hinge to allow it to come to a new position....
Welding hinges on, with no gasket, makes the door not fit too well when gaskets are applied....

 

You're dead on brother!  That was my immediate reaction, but thought that my lever locks would take care of it.  Maybe if I trim the fat on the top side, I can trail and error the rest...

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschoolbbq View Post
 

Throttlejunkie , I have found that on a rig like yours , just letting the smoke residue accumulate on the edges is enough. A few smokes and it doesn't leak . Unless the lid was bent or miss made :icon_eek:.

 

JMHO , have fun and . . .

  Smoke out the stack and FB :biggrin:.

 

Have fun and . . .

 

Well, I'm "that guy" that cant leave nothin alone.  So storing in the garage turned into: relocating.  Turned into: modifying my fence to get it in the back yard.  Turned into: making a shelter...then making the shelter better, then cleaning it, then redoing this and that and empty beer cans everywhere and.........here I am :hit:  Life has been hectic :)

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