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Can't keep smoker flame lit.

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

I am using my Masterbuilt 30" propane smoker for the second time. The first time I used it, I was having issues getting the temp down to 225 when cooking in the Texas sun. I was told to buy the following needle valve.


I installed the needle valve, but my fire goes out every few minutes. I'm constantly having to relight the fire. Any ideas?

post #2 of 15
Thread Starter 

Looks like I posted this under the electric forum. How do I move it to the right place?

post #3 of 15
Are you familiar with the safety shut off valve on the propane tank.... Close the needle valve, close the tank valve...... SLOWLY open the tank valve.... you should hear a "ping" or something as the safety valve resets itself..... the safety vale is designed to close off the propane supply if there is an "open" condition on the down stream side.... closing the needle valve, corrects that condition and all should be good.....
post #4 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks Dave. I was not aware of that. I've used a propane grill for years, but never run across this. I had to finish the ribs in the oven this time, so I'll give that a try next time.
post #5 of 15
Thread Starter 
It did seen like the propane shut off.
post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 

Tried the procedure you described and now I can't get any gas to come out at all. Can the safety valve get stuck? I'm seriously thinking about returning the needle valve. At least with the old hose the flame stayed lit, I just couldn't get the temps down below 250.

post #7 of 15
Ive had a bad tank valve before. Have you removed the needle valve and just try it direct to the smoker?
post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 
May be a couple of issues going on. Just got the safety valve unstuck but this time it appears either the wind blew out the flame or it's losing oxygen with the door closed. The flame went out, but I still had gas flowing.
post #9 of 15
If the smoker is air tight, no air flow, the flame will go out..... check the exhaust holes in the smoker body....
post #10 of 15

A needle valve only gives you more precise control over the flame.  Even with it in place, if the flame is very low, it could get blown out by the wind.     One thing you could do would be to set up a wind break to shield the flame.



On a broader note, are you using a water pan or something else as a heat synch?

post #11 of 15
Thread Starter 

Yes, I'm using a water pan.

post #12 of 15
Without proper exhaust, steam can snuff the flame...... with the small burner, you do not need a water pan to keep the heat low......

Generally speaking.... manufacturers put a water pan in the smoker because, the burner puts out too much heat, and won't provide a low temp.. the water sucks up BTU'S to lower the temp.....
post #13 of 15

I had trouble keeping my smoker build burner lit, then saw DaveOmak's reply to your post, and I increased my exhaust to 4" and it works great now, Thanks Dave. Smoking a brisket today and its holding at about 240 on the burner side, a little cooler at the exhaust side.

post #14 of 15
Thread Starter 

Got rid of the crappy needle valve regulator. Returned it to Amazon. Using it without a regulator and it works great now.

post #15 of 15

You're the second person I have seen here with that style needle valve that has had problems.  I am wondering if that style is not correct for the application.  Yes wind on a really low flame is going to obviously cause issue too.  If you ever wanted or needed to reconsider the needle valve idea, look at this one instead and see if it works better for you.  I run this on my Masterforge and don't have low flame issues unless it's windy out.

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