Baffle Installation?

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Then large valve bung had to be cut off the end of the cylinder. This is an old 125 lb. Refrigerant cylinder.m Approx. 12" dia x 36" long. The hole is now filled in with a piece of plate.


The door was cut out 1/4 of the diameter.


This view shows the heat deflector plate extending into over half of the CC area. Is this too far? Should it be cut back some? There is very little space between this plate and the Reverse Flow Baffle which will be about 1" above this and extends the whole length down to about the weld line of the cylinder.. This should allow lots of space for the smoke to get around.


This is a side view of the plenum I am making to support the 3" dia.stainless Steel chimney.


I flanged the end of the FB as this is where the loading door will sit against. I picked up some rope gasket material for this today and will attach the gasket to the door.


I made a stainless cooking grate out of stainless angle and stainless mesh. It was originally going to slid in and out on angles, but it sits down inside nice and flush, so I will leave it this way. The RF baffle will extend just slightly past the grate on the left.


The Door for the CC is just sitting in place temporarily. I have drilled out all the holes for plug welds from the other side and will weld them next week. Then the paint comes off.


Once I cut into the end of the CC, I will close up the face of the chimney plenum adapter.


This was a preliminary view of the FB before the flange to show the "floating" heat shield.


I have the bottom of the cart built with wheels. Next step is to add the risers and attach this assembly to the cart.






Heat shield is one piece from FB into CC.

I'm really not sure about the length of this. If i should cut it shorter, now would be the time!

I tried to follow all of the wonderful tips and suggestions along the way that you all have offered. I thank you very much for all this info. If you have any suggestions, please offer them. I'm getting close to "the point of no return"! lol
 
UL, afternoon..... Check the size of the opening UNDER the heat deflector plate BEFORE you install everything.... make sure that opening is the calculated square inches for the FB/CC opening.... It looks to me like you did the FB/CC opening then added the heat deflector plate, which make the opening smaller than planned.... If so, you may experience significant loss of air flow which will cause an overheated FB and reduced air flow.... especially since you have a 1" air gap + the thickness of the plate.... Dave
 
Dave,

I'll have to re measure the FB o CC opening on Tuesday. If the line (chord) AB is 10.5" and the segment height ED is 2.5" (I'm guessing. It might even be 3" or slightly more), would this not be enough area for the opening? The radius of the CC is 6". The gap between the heat shield and the ceiling of the FB is 1/2". All steel is 3/16" thickness.

I could possibly chew out a little more segment height (1/2"?).

My FB is way over sized for the CC. The box outside dimensions are 13 3/4" wide x 13 1/2"" high x 16" long. Now, the height above the fire to the underside of the heat deflector shield will be significantly less still.

I was more concerned with the length the heat deflector extends into the CC. Any thoughts on this?

The 3" dia. chimney is schedule 10 stainless steel (given to me). I have almost 24" of this and was planning to use it all full height.

Thanks,

Brian
 
Generally, the heat deflector is about 1/4 the length of the CC.... It is designed to stop the impingement of the flames on the RF plate, where the fire exits the FB..... some smokers work well without it.... It is "insurance" in a new build....
If the FB CC opening is less than 3", can you raise the heat deflector 1/4" so you have 1/4" air gap... you don't need much of an air gap.... It stops the heat transfer and any gap works well... As I posted earlier.... in a small smoker, the ratio of surface area of steel vs. the volume in cubic inches is a very high number, and extra volume is always better in a small smoker.....

Small smokers are so hard to predict how they will perform... They have a lot of steel per volume, and very good air flow is pretty much necessary for them to work well...

Starting with the 24" exhaust is good..... If need be, a choke plate can be put on the top of the stack, if it draws too much air....

This discussion may be moot as the smoker may work just perfectly.... It's difficult at best to determine how a new design will work...
Trying to overcome the known pitfalls, in a new design, is all we can do....

Your smoker looks really good.... good proportions and style... I do think you have a winner.....
 
Thanks Dave!

You guys have been a tremendous help in so many ways.

I had no idea of things like the heat shield or the calculations for all the difference aspects of opening sizes and such.

My kids and their spouses are so excited to see this thing complete and have our first cook-out on it! I have accumulated a huge collection of sauces and my eldest daughter bought me Jeff''s recipes to try out.

I have a place in the yard that I will designate as the new home of this little smoker. It wil be out of harms way from the Grand kids and have some concrete slabs underneath in case of ash drops or embers.
 
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