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pipe nipple and ball valve question

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

I have been considering some more control in the oxygen department from the 1 1/4 in hole on the side of my UDS.  I currently use magnets, but I am not happy with the amount of control it gives me, as the magnets are small rectangular shaped, and do not cover the hole completely, as the side of the barrel is round, leaving little cracks for air to get in.


Anyway, do you guys use stainless steel pipe nipples?  If not, then what do you use?


Also, I have never seen a stainless steel ball valve, what do you use?  has it been damaged by the heat?  What about the rubber seals in the ball valves, have they been damaged?


Any insight would be deeply appreciated.

post #2 of 8


I just use black pipe nipples and for the ball valve the nipple puts it out far enough from the heat that I have never had a problem.

post #3 of 8

I used black iron pipe. and a brass all valve. I have seen a PVC valve used. It is on the intake side so it doesn't get that hot.

Happy smoken.


post #4 of 8
Learnem, afternoon... If you can find a bushing reducing pipe fitting that fits the existing hole, install it..... If it is a 1 1/4" x 3/4 or 1/2, install a nipple and ball valve.... you are good to go..... To secure the reducer to the UDS, try a "nut" from electrical....

post #5 of 8

Here's my build thread. I used two vertically piped 3/4" brass ball valves. From what I can see there is no rubber in them but even if there were, they never get hot enough when piped away from the charcoal basket like mine are. The vertical black pipe is 24" x 3/4" and is fairly cheap. It makes it much nicer for adjustments no having to bend over to see how far open/closed it currently is before or during adjustments. You can't tell by my build pics but I also used 3 casters mounted to the bottom of my barrel. Two are fixed one swivels. They add some height as well but I should have placed them a bit closer to the edges as it can get tippy if you move it around too quickly; not that it's ever been a problem.


BTW, I used the electrical conduit nuts posted above to hold the pipe nipples in place. They worked great with one on the inside and one outsite the barrel, for each nipple of course. Combined with the U-bolts seen below, there is no wiggle or bending whatsoever.



Here's a pertinent pic from that thread


post #6 of 8
Thread Starter 

Thanks for all the help guys.  I ended up going with a brass hose bib, as I believe it gives me more control of the air that the handled ball valve, plus it was less than half of the same size handled ball valve!


I'll post a picture when I get a pic

post #7 of 8
Tried using elbows and pipes on mine. They apparently caused to much of a restriction as I couldn't get the temperature above 275*.
post #8 of 8
I am in the piping construction business. Black steel pipe is no problem. The electrical lock nuts that Dave shows are good to keep pipes in alignment. I would use as large of size as you can and use the valve to throttle it. You can't get more air through a smaller pipe, but you can restrict too much air in a larger pipe. As far as valves are concerned, stainless is a huge waste of money. Use brass valves. The ball seats are Teflon, not rubber, so don't worry about the heat. Good luck, Joe
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