Handymanstan has it covered.
L1 and L2 are your AC voltage connections. Wiring is on page 11, in figure 11a for 110v. Just hook the black and white wires from your 110v to terminals 1 and 2.
DO NOT confuse "Com" on terminal 3 with common which can be sometimes used for the neutral leg of a 110v circuit. On this PID the "COM" is for output 2 if used. Use only L1 and L2 for 110v AC power.
Any time you have wiring info on a sticker attached to the device, go with that over the printed PDF (but in this case they match, which is what I would expect from a quality company like Watlow. Not so much with Chinese products though). Watlow is first quality commercial grade stuff. That PID is a keeper for sure.
Here is your sticker
From your your model number on the sticker, SD3C-HCJA-AARG, this is what you have....
Model SD3 1/32 DIN with "other than a universal process output installed for output 1". Breakdown is as follows:
- H - High voltage AC power wiring (input power for the PID) on terminals 1 & 2 (100 to 240v AC range)
- C - Output 1 switched DC for SSR control - supplies 30mA maximum (this is plenty for triggering a smoker SSR), supplies 6 to 12v DC output (again perfect for triggering the SSR's you will see in smoker builds here). Terminal 5 is DC+ and terminal 6 is DC - output to the SSR (polarity does matter)
- J - Output 1 mechanical relay - plain old mechanical relay for up to a 2amp load. Will handle up to 240v AC or 30v DC. This is a simple relay and does not supply any power, it is only a controlled "switch" type relay. Terminal 3 is the common and terminal 4 is "normally open" and closes when triggered by the PID.
- A - not in the manual (that I saw), perhaps "A" for Absent or not used? That position appears to be for the Output 3 configuration and is appears to be absent in your unit as the PDF shows terminals 12 to 14 used depending on what internal configuration the unit has. It is common not to have a third output (and the biggest clue is you don't have terminals 12 to 14 on your model sticker).
- As to the temperature sensors you have many options that can be programmed by the user (you) depending on what you have. Should work with and RTD sensor or J, H, T, E, N, C, D, PTH, R, S, and B type thermocouples (pretty much anything you might encounter will work - Watlow is good stuff and commercial grade). Figures 12a and 12b on page 12 of the PDF cover the most common sensor hookups.
NOTE ***YOU MUST configure the software in the PID to match the sensor type you use or you will get incorrect readings***
Short version for 99.9% of the smoker controllers out there would be.....
Terminal Goes to
1 & 2 110v AC power (polarity does not matter)
3 & 4 Not used
5 & 6 DC triggering voltage out from PID to SSR trigger input (polarity does matter)
7 Not used
8 Only used if you have a RTD type sensor
9 Not used
10 & 11 Used for thermocouples, and used for RTD sensor (along with terminal 8 for RTD only).
That should cover the hookup of the unit.