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Smoker paint! - Page 2

post #21 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by tgrimmett View Post

I've been reading a lot on this getn ready to paint a big smoker im building . I read were that some people build a fire an paint while the smoker is hot and it bakes on . Anyone ever try this?


Follow the directions on the paint can......
post #22 of 37
Thread Starter 
The key to not getting blisters in the paint is thin coats and making sure each coat is dry before the next one. Im impatient, and prefer to heat up the smoker to about 100 to 120 degrees so as the coats dry fast. Best done with a heated paint booth, or by placing a propane burner inside the cooker. Problem with building a fire is the firebox will get too hot, and dry too fast , also the soot will keep paint from adhering,
post #23 of 37
Thanks for the info. Greatly appreciated!!
post #24 of 37
How would a clear high temp finish hold up? I am getting my ideas together for a build and I was looming to just brush the rust off and clear coat so it keeps the natural rust/patina look. I will still blast and paint the inside. How would this hold up?
post #25 of 37
My brother sand blasted his 120 gallon smoker. He takes care of his like a cast iron pot.
post #26 of 37
I forgot I've got a drum smoker I sand blasted down and cleared it with high temp clear. It's under a porch and covered most of the time but it's held up nice. It's been cleared for almost a year now. I don't cook on it much just at Competitions mostly.
post #27 of 37
Is powder coating a viable option for smokers? I have never done any but I've read several online references. It seems that cleaning the metal is the big drawback. Also, it might not be feasible to heat cure the powder on a large smoker. Would the types of heating chambers used in auto body shops get hot enough to cure the powder? Otherwise, the coating can be applied with a relatively inexpensive electrolytic sprayer.

Just curious to know . . .
post #28 of 37

You may have already tried it . There is a Bronze company in Illinois that makes paint. Sheffields Pot Belly Stove Paint its a satin but if you apply it right and do a few coats you can wash it or even pressure wash and scrub it back to new. Its really tough. Its only 1000 deg but its a true  1000 deg as long as a flame doesn't hit it. It will take the temps and it is very durable. I built a cooker for a friend in St Augustine he lives ocean front and after 8 years it still cleans up very well. They grind bronze filings in the paint and it sticks and does not chalk

post #29 of 37

I am currently building a 50 style fridge into a smoker there was some rust from water leaking so I want to chemical remove or bead blast the rust but then I will have an issue with future rust is there any way I can stop it from rusting besides oiling it.

 

thanks

post #30 of 37

Ospho.....   We use this on our steel commercial fishing boats, in the salt water....   We have coated rust using this and not overpainted with marine paint...  In one season, the rust was still encapsulated with the Ospho and no new rust was seen.... 

This stuff is incredible....... 

 

https://smile.amazon.com/Ospho-605-Metal-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503874148&sr=8-1&keywords=ospho

post #31 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Donny88 View Post
 

I am currently building a 50 style fridge into a smoker there was some rust from water leaking so I want to chemical remove or bead blast the rust but then I will have an issue with future rust is there any way I can stop it from rusting besides oiling it.

 

thanks

If the rust is inside the cabinet where you will be cooking then bead blast and season with spray Pam. If the rust is outside bead blast and prime with inorganic Zinc primer then top coat.

post #32 of 37


inside the smoker being a metal old fridge it is white I assume it is white paint would you recommend taking it off by bead blasting or leave it

post #33 of 37

It's more than likely baked on enamel...  not a problem...

post #34 of 37

Still no replies on the Rust-Oleum Ultra....HMM. I was thinking about trying it but it won't be for a while.

 

Bill

post #35 of 37

I bought a can of the regular High Heat in flat black and a can of the Ultra in Semi-Gloss this weekend to test them. I'll report back.  My guess is that the semi will be easier to clean grease off.

post #36 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by Motocrash View Post

Still no replies on the Rust-Oleum Ultra....HMM. I was thinking about trying it but it won't be for a while.

Bill

I haven't heard of anyone here that has used that paint. That being said the Hi Heat one has a rating upto 1200degrees. I have looked at this one myself but have found a few others that are good upto 2000degrees around the same price point so that is where I am leaning. http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/high-heat
post #37 of 37
I tried the gloss ultra last year on my converted pellet smoker and wasn't happy with the look. I'm no professional painter but I had a hard time getting a smooth even looking coverage... and it didn't last


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