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Mongo - Stumps Clone Build - Gravity Feed Smoker

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 

And the two guys that built him.

 

Mongo!

 

And there you have it.

 

Grease flashing on interior of main door. This helps keep grease and moisture off of the gasket.

 

Diamond stamped aluminum heat deflector.

 

Diamond stamped aluminum heat deflector.

 

Diamond stamped aluminum heat deflector.

 

Latches on.

 

With paint from Forrest Manufacturing - Stovebright 1200 degree rated, satin black.

 

Gauge back on.

 

Latches on.

 

Managed to get him in the garage by dropping the tongue and lowering the stack carefully under the door opening, whewww, it was mighty close.

 

Mongo goes for his first ride, without paint.

 

Getting it on the trailer was a feat of engineering and prayer...and an engine hoist.

 

Pork loin, pretty darn tasty!

 

Didn't see any need to waste good smoke. We filled the hopper to half capacity and held 230 degrees for well over 24 hours!!

 

Main door latches installed.

 

Field test; we have lift-off!

 

Field test; we have lift-off!

 

Easy to hold temp wherever you want it. It was about 5 degrees outside the shop when we fired it up, it took a little bit to heat up 1200 lbs. of ice-cold steel - maybe 45 minutes.

 

Racks partially extended. Cleats at the back of each rack prevent them from pivoting down, even at full extension.

 

Insulated firebox door installed with continuous hinge. Gate valve assembly installed.

 

Racks installed using 3/4" #9 flat expanded metal welded to frame rods.

 

This rig is not complete without the trailer; it's not ever coming off. Finished weight of the smoker is around 1200 lbs., gauge your trailer capacities accordingly. This one will handle 2200 lbs.

 

Tel-Tru temp gauge. (McMaster-Carr)

 

Tension latch for hopper lid. (Grainger)

 

Front view with temp gauge and door handle installed.

 

Closed view of hopper lid.

 

Closed view of hopper lid.

 

Open view of hopper lid.

 

Top view of exhaust stack with inline damper.

 

Welding on hopper lid frame.

 

Under-cabinet access opening.

 

End skin attached.

 

Door hinged using heavy bolt-style hinges w/grease zerts.

 

Closed door view.

 

End piece sized over hotbox frame - not fastened yet.

 

Outer skins welded to frame.

 

Outer skins welded to frame.

 

Outer skins welded to frame.

 

Insulating cook chamber, firebox, and hopper.

 

Insulating cook chamber, firebox, and hopper.

 

Insulating cook chamber door.

 

Insulating cook chamber, firebox, and hopper.

 

Insulating cook chamber, firebox, and hopper.

 

1 1/2" mineral wool for insulation of all double width assemblies. (McMaster-Carr)

 

Door assembly with outside skin attached.

 

Diagonal view with primary and secondary grates extended.

 

Dang, wouldn't go into a standard garage, exhaust shortened!

 

Exhaust installed.

 

Exhaust placement.

 

Diagonal end view.

 

Welding, and more welding.

 

Inside top installed.

 

Inside back and end wall installed.

 

Diagonal end view.

 

Welding, and more welding.

 

Welding, and more welding.

 

Welding, and more welding.

 

Welding, and more welding.

 

Welding, and more welding.

 

Welding, and more welding.

 

Firewall installed.

 

Drain pan and duct installed. We used 10 gauge plate on all surfaces, inside and out, and 5/16" commercial steel on the duct. The duct opening is approximately 4" x 8". Our upper firebox is approximately 14" cubed and the lower is approximately 16" cubed; pretty large for a gravity feed design.

 

Firebox installed in frame.

 

Firebox installed in frame.

 

2 1/2" gate valve. Found on eBay for $4.99 + shipping.

 

A little team spirit!

 

2 1/2' nipple for gate valve air inlet.

 

Firebox installed in frame.

 

Firebox installed in frame.

 

Firebox installed in frame.

 

Firebox installed in frame.

 

Primary grate installed.

 

Primary grate installed.

 

Building the firebox; 5/16 commercial steel.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Building the firebox; 5/16 commercial steel.

 

Building the firebox; 5/16 commercial steel.

 

Building the firebox; 5/16 commercial steel.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

Assembling the frame.

 

End view.

 

This is the basic frame design that we built from, borrowed from most of the other clone designs that we looked at; front view. We decided to build for strength and durability rather than worry about weight. We used 11 gauge 1 1/4" square tube steel.

 

post #2 of 14
Nice build!
post #3 of 14
Very nice looking build. I'm a huge fan of the stumps design built myself one a few years ago. Great job on your built.
post #4 of 14
Thread Starter 

Thanks.

post #5 of 14

Great build. I too am a fan of the stumps clone and have one drawn up for my future project. I gotta give a thumbs up Thumbs Up

post #6 of 14
Nicholson I tried making a gravity fed cooker on the back side of a pic cooker but I used a 3/4 valve instead cause the 2 1/2 was so pricey but I had trouble with my fire so you think that was the problem also it was about a foot under the actual fire
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Sometimes even with a bigger valve establishing initial airflow can be an issue. I found that big valve of mine for $5 on ebay. You may need to buy, or make, a little blower system to attach to your valve. Usually once the coals are pretty well established it will burn just fine on its own, even with a smaller valve.
post #8 of 14
Getting it burning isn't so much the problem with the top open it's when I close the top when it's stops burning like it suppose to, guess installing a 2 1/2 inch nipple couldn't hurt anything to start with, thanks for the help
post #9 of 14
How big is your grate opening that your coals fall threw from
post #10 of 14
Hey, do you still have the plans that you built this off of? I would love to take a look at them and see if this is something I could build. Thanks.
post #11 of 14

Great build, will be my next project for sure.

post #12 of 14

How did you determine the size of your firebox? 

post #13 of 14

Looks great.  You are definitely a much better welder than i am.

post #14 of 14
Thread Starter 

I'd love to say I had some kind of method to my madness, but I really just winged it on size.

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