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24" backyard smoker build. Some questions... - Page 2

post #21 of 39

I'm brainstorming on doing a backyard size build and this is right up my alley. If I can find a source for pipe this may end up being the winner! Thanks for sharing your progress, very nicely done.

post #22 of 39
Wow! Love the ax handles!
post #23 of 39

Amazing job man.. Damn. 

post #24 of 39

Only problem I see occurring with the drilled holes is your stuck with what you have, and cant tune it after. but I like the idea of it. Oh Yeah. Your smoker looks GREAT!

post #25 of 39

Awesome build very inspired now

post #26 of 39

First of all, awesome build!  Secondly, on the tuning plate or convection plate, I have seen them with small holes drilled towards the firebox increasing in size as you move away from the FB, but personally, I would just go tuning plates all the way.  I know several guys who use them and swear by them, plus you don't mess up perfectly good plate.

post #27 of 39

hello 45 just ran across your post your pit looks excellent  nice fab . Im building smoker also wanted your feed back on the adjustible dampner on the fire box are you able to control you temps better ? I am considering adding one to my build just wondering  if your glad you designed it that way and has it been helpful ?

post #28 of 39
I love this! I want to build one like it!
post #29 of 39
Amazing work.
post #30 of 39

Great looking smoker!  Hope mine turns out even half as nice as yours did!!!!

 

Quick question about your hinges.  I would like to use bullet hinges as well.  I see that you have outside flanges around the CC door cuts.  Did you then just weld the hinges to the flange?  So one side of the hinge is welded to pipe itself, and the other is welded to the flange which is in turn welded to the pipe section that is the door? 


Thanks and great job again!

Kevin

post #31 of 39
45 ACP what size flat bar did you use for the border on the chamber doors?
post #32 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdog83 View Post

45 ACP what size flat bar did you use for the border on the chamber doors?

 

pdog, morning...   material as thin as 18 gauge is fine...   you are only sealing the CC from air flow....    recommended blind welding the air seal....  plug welds...

 

post #33 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveOmak View Post

pdog, morning...   material as thin as 18 gauge is fine...   you are only sealing the CC from air flow....    recommended blind welding the air seal....  plug welds...




Thanks dave....i was thinking 1"x1/8" for the cook chamber and 1"x3/16" for the firebox. So to plug weld it i would need to drill holes in the flat bar and weld it to the chamber right?
post #34 of 39

Yep....  That way you don't warp the edge of the door, like a full weld might do...     Weld each end....  then the center...   Then the center of what's left...    That provides shrinkage in a uniform manner...  

 

Depending on the rod or wire, 1/4 or 5/16 should be an adequate hole size...  

 

Ribwizzard developed a method also....    Using a grinder, grind a notch in the door, then weld from the inside of the door... 

That method usually requires an "undersized" door so the welds do not interfere with the fit....   Sure looks nice from the outside...  NO welds...

post #35 of 39

I use  1 x1/8" for the seal and TIG  weld it.    If one of my guys don't have a TIG I usually get them to notch on an angle facing inwards then they can use a grandps welder (electrode) so it does not fill it too much.

Lots of newbies here are eager to try out their welding skills and weld the seal on solid.  I advise strongly against doing that.

  

Dave's got good advice.. He has been aroung the block once or twice.

post #36 of 39
Dave's idea to plug weld it was a good one.....thats what I'm going to go with🙂
post #37 of 39

Those plug welds should work at a 4-6" spacing...  See what works for you and looks good....

post #38 of 39

100-150mm works better ;)

post #39 of 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahumadora View Post
 

100-150mm works better ;)

 

 

 

 

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