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UK build.....all done...I think... - Page 3

post #41 of 114
Thread Starter 

They are working ok, even if I put the flange on the outside. Its just a bit close to scraping for my liking. I'd like the pin a bit closer to the chamber and further away from the cut to make the door work better.

I just had to knock something up so I could make the cut. Better ones will follow...And I could rework those ones for the firebox door.



axle photo axleunder.jpg

I put it on stands and rolled the axle under to see how it sits. It all looked good, it should all mount ok.

The picture is a little deceiving, the cook chamber needs to be a little higher, but that's good as it would mean the legs and the axle mounts would be in the same ball park


The yellow vertical near the chain block is a tape measure, I was assessing stack height. If I used 6" pipe it would need to be 54"tall, with 8"pipe only 30.5"tall. (from Feldons Calculator).


I'm thinking of going with the 6" and removing it for transport. That way the smoke would be clear of people around it and could be better seen from a distance.


What do you think?

post #42 of 114

Hello.  I like the idea of getting the stack above head height.  Instead of removable how about a hinged flange so that it lays down.  Maybe twist-lock type latches and an automotive type gasket to seal.  Just some thoughts.  Lookin good.


post #43 of 114
Thread Starter 

Yeah, we thought about hinged, it would lay down nice across the top. We hadn't thought about the latches, it was cold and a Sunday lunch time so we accidently went to the pub to sit in front of the fire with a beer.

post #44 of 114

Sounds like a good plan.  Sit in front of the fire with a beer and discuss your options.  Was thinking a twist type latch angled so that the tighter you twist the tighter the seal if you know what I mean.  Incorporate the latch in the stack so that you don't have to find any clamps or such. Push up, twist latches and done.  Maybe incorporate the boss's into a stack support/door stop??  Good luck.


post #45 of 114
I plan on making my pipe just tall enough to still fit under the garage door, and that will still get the smoke above eye level, I have never paid any attention to length of pipe, but more so to the dia. I think if you have at least two ft of the right dia, anything after that is just for looks.

That's just my opinion though.
post #46 of 114
Thread Starter 
I also measured the height of my workshop door with that in mind, but I think It would look too short. (I have a low door)

I think it will be hinged, I like the twist lock idea, that would be very easy to use.
I'd need to put a cap over it when folded away to keep the rain out.

Is the prefered method to extend the pipe down into the cook chamber?

I'm just waiting for a piece of pipe to turn up so I can offer it up to see what it will look like.

I think the two shelves will be 4'x3' and 4'x2'2"
post #47 of 114

You might just want to make a part of the pipe removable,


The pipe I bought, 6 inch schedule 40 ,36 inches long is way heavier than I would want to have to handle,  But I have thought about making like a one foot extention.

post #48 of 114
Originally Posted by Ribwizzard View Post

You might just want to make a part of the pipe removable,

The pipe I bought, 6 inch schedule 40 ,36 inches long is way heavier than I would want to have to handle,  But I have thought about making like a one foot extention.

Possibly you could use a tapered piece up top. Skinny end downward, make diameters so that friction would hold it up in position during a "cook".

Here is a link to an adjustable length (inside CC) stack. http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/94214/exhaust-pipe-damper

I just completed my stack and made the inside CC height adjustable by using a smaller diameter piece slid inside the main stack. Friction holds it in place. Will it be useful....I don't know...but its there since adding it would be major after the fact. Most guys recommend cutting this pipe at an angle to reduce friction.


post #49 of 114
Thread Starter 

My pipe has turned up, 6" internal diameter, 3/16 wall thickness (5mm).

I think it may be too heavy to lift up as a hinged chimney, I may need a rethink.


photo photo2.jpg

post #50 of 114

Hello Michael.  That's a chunk of iron.  Off the top of my head the only thing I come up with is a hand crank winch,  like a boat winch with the cable run up a solid post with a pulley at the top to winch the stack in to place.  Don't like it, will look tacky.  If it is a height thing maybe you could get by with putting the hinge half way up?  Would make it lighter.  Have a couple other great ideas for dealing with the stack but you will lose heat and smoke control so ABSOLUTELY worthless for this application.  Give me a day or 2.  Good luck.


post #51 of 114
I told you it would be heavy!
post #52 of 114
I'd cut it to fit under the door, then make a slip on extension.
post #53 of 114
Thread Starter 

Its actually 7mm thick (9/32"), That's why its so damn heavy! It was our favourite price though, free!

I was thinking of welding about 5" of it on, then buying a piece of 3mm (1/8") to hinge on to it.

Or like you say, slip on extension.

post #54 of 114

Hello Michael.  I keep running ideas through my head but each either looks like crap or you lose the proper draught.  Unsuitable for application!  I think you have hit on your only viable solution; buy the lighter pipe for the application.  As suggested by both, weld a "base" from what you have and then buy lighter pipe for an extension, slip on or hinged.  HATE to have to buy when I have free laying around.  Good luck.


post #55 of 114

A slip pipe . with in a pipe would be a nice looking solution, but then you need seamless pipe to have a good seal.  Could use a achme threaded rod on the inside and just "spin" it up to the right height.   But thats a lot of fab work and money for an exhaust that ( in my opinion) really doesnt matter.

post #56 of 114
Thread Starter 
I've had a few hours in the office trying to figure out how to balance my door.
The problem is that my door is quite far around the side, so to get a counter weight the other side of the hinge point to help balance the door, it greatly restricts the door opening amount.

The best way I can see to overcome this is to have a weight on the inside of the chamber, dog legged into the unused ends of the cylinder. It wouldnt be in the way of the shelves.

The weight on the outside would take over from the one on the inside as they pass the pivot point.

photo cad.jpg

What do you guys think? Its the position and amount of travel of the door that doesn't lend itself to traditional counter weights.
Edited by UK Builder - 1/16/14 at 8:27am
post #57 of 114

you got to play with it a bit, best thing is to cut some mock up pieces from cardboard and open and close the door,  the trick is to keep it short and close to the hinge, and start with the weight on the door side of the hinge. then as you lift, the weight passes the hinge and starts your counterweight.   I know, ...i know....youve already done that and it didnt work,... but trust me, its trickey and it took me a long time playing with these things, just forget those tall ones you see on all those other builds and start with a fresh mind when you get back to building, cut out some cardboard pieces and start taping them on.  Ive done doors low like this and fixing to do another, maybe even start this weekend.  So if you want to hold off a bit on that part, I may have some pics to show next week.

post #58 of 114
A counter weight on the inside will hit the food and food racks.... Weights on the outside have worked for years.... Like RW said, time to rethink your design.... Look at all the other builds to see what they have done.....
post #59 of 114

Hello Michael.  I have to agree with the above.  Like Ribwizzard said it is a matter of testing it.  Dave also makes a good point about the inside counter-weight.  Have only ever seen or made an outside weight.  When I have done it in the past it was a trial and error thing, depending on the door.  I would start with Drawing 1 ( without the internal weight ) and maybe angle the outer weight to 30 degrees to the back of the smoker.  Just a starting point.  Good luck.


post #60 of 114
Thread Starter 

I think I may have to go with the designs below. I put a scale under the handle and it weighs 40lbs, So I want to counter balance some of this weight to make it open easier.

If I move my external weight to the chamber side of the hinge, the door doesn't open far enough. The internal hinge weight wont be in the way of the food or shelves.

I will do as you suggest and tack some external weights on and see how they work first though.

photo sidedoorweight.jpg

photo doorweightend.jpg

On the plus side I found a large piece of thin walled 6" pipe in the scrap skip at work, so thats the chimney parts sorted.




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