Found a older SS fridge laying behind a business. Asked about and was told if I wanted it to take it. So I did. I gutted the inside panels, ripped out the insulation. built the bottom up 5 1/2" inches to match the opening height with 2 2x6. Then I put in vermiculite to insulate the bottom. Bought some 12 gauge stainless to remake the inside panels. got that all welded up and now shoved that box in. Before I insulate the sides back and top what should I do for a electric heating element, I have a digital controller that I will be using to control this heater with, and will be using a smoke daddy for my smoke as I do a lot of cold and hot smoke. how big of a exhaust vent should I have out the back? Other minor detail is what are ppl using for a door seal. I have a 5/8 gap to fill.
Starting my first SS fridge smoker.
SmokingMeatForums.com Top Picks
- 4,665 Posts. Joined 9/2011
- Location: Florida.
- Points: 137
- Select All Posts By This User
yes menards carries vermiculite. about 15 dollars a 3 cu ft bag. used this for insulating are maple syrup wood fired box. worked better then anything I have tried so I thought why not use it in a smoker also. Now onto the intake and out take what size would anyone recommend?I purchased the Magnum smoke daddy. figured if I wanted a lot of smoke or a lil it was capable.
I have a similar unit and installed a 1500w Brinkmann replacement element in mine. I have seen others that use a fin-type heater, also.
For air, I put in stainless, flanged sink pipe that I bought at my local Ace Hardware. 1-1/4" wide for the intake, and 1-1/2" wide for the exhast. The intake I just put in the floor, and it also doubles as my drain hole. The outlet hole was already there where the refrigeration tubes came in, so I just used that. It seems to do just fine.
Ok so tonight's project led into the door. I used a piece of 20 gauge SS. drilled holes every 4 inches and now the thought came about instead of using stainless screws what about stainless rivets. any thoughts on this? a lot marine places use stainless. Before I do fasten it I want to run a small bead of aluminum colored food grade high temp silicone around the hole panel. And one the edges I left myself close to 3/4" inch for the seal to be mounted. For the exhaust I am thinking of using a 2" piece of stainless pipe out the back and using a threaded 90 to make it go straight up after it gets out of the box. Still don't know what size for the intake yet. The smoke daddy will have a 7/8" opening. 1 inch too small?
Didn't get too much accomplished tonight. Cut 1 hole in the bottom of the door at 2 3/8" and one up high in the back at the same width. Going to use 2 inch SS pipe for a exhaust with a damper of some sort, thought about the older tractors with the lil flipper on the exhaust. just tighten it up some so it holds open where u leave it. and then the front of the door for the intake going to make something similar like a weber grill has for a exhaust. lil dial that I can turn open and close. Also ordered the 1800 watt auber dual probe controller. Now to figure out what heating element to get. Who bought the 1800 watt one from grainger and how do u like it. and who bought the Brinkman heating element and how do you like that. just wondering if the grainger one could get up to 500+ degrees for cleaning purposes.
Welcome to the forums!
Read some of the threads here about commercial fridges. If you plan on hot smoking, I believe the conventional wisdom is to remove any polyurethane foam.
man i about gave up on this project but i got it apart going to have to put steel tubing in wall for support i am using a universal element with a built in thermostat 50 degrees to 400 would regular house insulation work or do i need to use something else and what do you think about the element
as long as you are all sealed up I wouldn't worry a bit about house insulation. Don't know if it is possible but vermiculite is fairly cheap. I used a total of 4 bags of it on my fridge conversion. even used it in the door. it really fills all the voids and also settles in very quick. just rock the unit back and forth and it gets packed in. Heating units are good as long as they don't have there own built in resistor so they don't go over temp. I don't believe yours has this so no worries.
OK GOT MY FIRST SS SMOKER APART AND FOAM OFF GOING TO TORCH LEFT OVER RESIN MY SMOKER CAME APART IN SECTION AND IT LOOKS LIKE THE FOAM GAVE IT STABILITY GOING TO HAVE TO STRENGTHEN THE TWO SIDE SO IT CAN BOLT BACK TOGETHER SHOULD I USE A STEEL TUBING ??? OR COULD I USE 2X4 CUT DOWN AND SCREWED TOGETHER ??? STEEL MORE BUCKS, WOOD CHEAPER, BUT WOULD THE WOOD HOLD UP TO THE HEAT SCREW WORKING OUT??? ANY ADVICE HELPFUL IN MY MIND I SAY STEEL TUBING