Insulating the Landman 38" wide

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Dampers- I’ve done a few smokes, and going well. Beats any of the BBQ (sic) available locally here.
But, one thing I’m not very clear on are the Lower dampers. I’ve been leaving the top smokestack wide open for airflow (it’s not that large anyway). I understand the function of lower dampers for sick and charcoal burners- that’s pretty clear.

But, with propane, the whole bottom is already pretty well open (vented). The attached picture shows the two Adjustable bottom dampers, about level with the wood smoke box (water pan is above, burner below ). It doesn’t show all the open area on the bottom, however.

Any thoughts? I couldn’t find much good info for us lowly propane burners.......
 

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I never move my lower dampers. They were wide open the first time I ever used the GOSM and have remained open all these years. Temperature is regulated by a needle valve as I stated before.

Lamar
 
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I run a propane unit, I use the lower 2 dampers to fine tune the temps +/-
With stick burners, that makes sense as you can't turn a knob to dial the flame down. I just installed a needle valve, so can hopefully fine tune temps with that (the burner knob doesn't fine tune well). I also have a cast iron skillet I leave on the top rack as a heat sink (and to put the beans on later on in the smoke).

Also, I'm still not clear how the side dampers interact with the wood chip box to produce "optimal" smoke (given all the large openings on the bottom of the smoker). And, the proper quantities of chips and chunks (I cut my own wood). And, if I should turn the chip box lid sideways (or remove to start) to get more airflow to start (to get the TBS smoke going sooner).

And, if I need the side dampers open for "optimal" convection airflow through the cabinet.
It's a great (and fun) challenge trying for better and better BBQ.
 
Update, I’ve been smoking away the last 4 months on the Dynaglow that I insulated (see prior post). I’ve likely done 30 smokes. Everything is holding up great.

I did also add a cast iron pan for the smoke wood container (it came with a light sheet metal tray). The handles were the perfect spacing to set on a couple of bricks cut in half. I had to move the wood tray closer to the burner as I run much less flame vs uninsulated. I wasn’t getting enough smoke with the heavier cast iron pan set on the higher factory location.

Im very happy with the smoker. Although, next time I’d get a larger size.
 

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Ive had my Landmann 38" for a few years now. From the midwest and winters can be brutal so I insulated during the first summer. I took it a step further and wrapped it in wood. Ive always wanted to post pics but never got to it til tonight while getting ready for a smoke tommorow, -10 and this thing wont flinch at holding 225 all day and night. I need to drill a hole for my probes but Im a lazy smoker and haven't done it lol. I also added latches to the side of the door. Love this thing picked it up on swap for 50$ in basically new shape.

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Now that's an interesting approach. temps won't get hot enough to burn the wood. Good thinking and it looks good too.
Mine has been chugging along 8 years now and insulation is as good as when first installed.
Welcome to this fine forum.
 
That pic above is from the first year after a few smokes. It now has a nice patina smoke stain on the wood. I also added the wind blocks around 3 sides of the legs which helps as it gets windy here in SD. -3 today and can open and close the chamber door with no worries of this thing catching back up to temps without cranking the gas. But....if your looking it aint cookin, so that only gets opened when needed. They built these things right with the separate wood and water doors. Bottom rack will get eggplant finger food 30 minutes before I pull everything.

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I especially like the separate wood and water trays. I line the water tray with foil and use it or a large drip pan. 2 or 3 chunks of wood lasts a long time.
 
the only thing this smoker needed was a needle valve. once I added it, temp stability was unreal.
the factory valve did not give fine control on the flame.
I have used it at 5f temps.
 
Yea the needle valve is on the list too. There a good write up to add that in? You have pics of yours? Is it as simple as just splicing in a needle valve with some hose clamps?
 
it is actually that simple. the regulator puts out less than 1 psi so a clamp on a barbed valve works very well. I leave the control on the smoker full open and regulate the flame with the needle valve only.
 
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