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Ok, here we go. - Page 3

post #41 of 412

Be interesting to see  If you decide to use them, Haven't seen these before, Look neat !



post #42 of 412
I have used them to make a snowmobile trailer. Torsion bars are cool and easy to package and work well.
post #43 of 412
Thread Starter 
Well, I need to do something soon, been dragging but on this build!
post #44 of 412
RW, morning.... The torsion axles came standard on my boat trailer... They are very nice... properly sized for the weight (GVW) they cushion very well..... You can weld them to an axle and then have an adjustable axle super easy... fore and aft for balance..... Takes the guess work out of it...

post #45 of 412
Thread Starter 

Ok, did just order 20 ft of 3" channel for my frame. ...and I am going to rub it in that my price is only $40.00, and it will be delivered tomorrow.


I can get a 4' x8' sheet of 1/8" stainless for $246.00, I was thinking of getting a sheet and line the reverse flow pan with it ( plug weld it on top), possibly build the pan out of 3/16" plate, then add the stainless to the top to give me 5/16" thickness over all. I would only use less than half the sheet for this one, so your really just talking about $123.00 ,


3/16" plate 4 x8 is $110.25



whatcha think????/   Sure is a lot cheaper than building Oak cabinets, thats for sure!!!

post #46 of 412
Thread Starter 

oh... and 3/8" plate 4 x 8 is $221.00

post #47 of 412
RW, I would have the SS "float".. The expansion coefficient of the dissimilar metals, could cause a warping problem..... A friend built a tent camping stove out of 10 ga, hot rolled and had a fully welded SS top on it.... Was planning on using the top as a griddle.... after a few heats, the top looked like the ocean in a wind storm.... couldn't cook directly on it ..... and frying pans didn't have good heat transfer.... BIG mistake...
post #48 of 412
Thread Starter 

Might be right, it will need to seal to the drain pipe in the center.....or could just do a slip sleeve, ...then I could just lift it all out to clean it.


Might not really be worth the extra work and $$,....... I'll sleep on that ideal for a few nights

post #49 of 412
Originally Posted by Ribwizzard View Post

Might be right, it will need to seal to the drain pipe in the center.....or could just do a slip sleeve, ...then I could just lift it all out to clean it.

Might not really be worth the extra work and $$,....... I'll sleep on that ideal for a few nights

And I thought you never slept....biggrin.gif
post #50 of 412
what about on your SS piece (floating as Dave said) you cut the hole where the drain is.. weld a 1" wide (whatever you like) collar on the underneath side that will fit down inside the steel drain pipe (thinking funnel here)... that will also help hold the SS in one place.... as you say it will be removable for easy cleaning.... If you have a lip at the end of RF plate... you could bend the SS to go over top of that lip.... and slide down on it... will seal that end up for any grease getting under the SS.... Just some thoughts that I kinda like....
Edited by JckDanls 07 - 12/3/13 at 4:43pm
post #51 of 412

I hear what Dave is saying about the stainless,but his buddies was used as a cook top. I could definitely see that warping as it was in direct heat with flames constantly hitting it. With the heat shield off the fire box I believe you would be fine with the 1/8" over the 3/16's. The temp in the CC chamber should get close to that of a cook top. Just another opinion thrown out there. I like the stainless RF idea.

post #52 of 412
Thread Starter 
It's got me thinking, if I decide to go with the stainless drip pan, who says it has to be form fitted to the reverse flow plate? If I go with a flat reverse flow plate, the drip pan could be removed and I could use charcoal on top of the reverse plate so as it's now a grill!

The wheels are spinning!
post #53 of 412

There you go, sounds like a plan ?



post #54 of 412
Thread Starter 

Here is what I'm leaning toward now for the trailer, the chamber is 24", so trailer frame will go 36" to 38", This axle kit should put my wheels centered at 50",





Photo 48 of 48

post #55 of 412
Thread Starter 

Any thoughts on that?

post #56 of 412

I guess you decided against the trailer in the earlier picture. Since you probably have the angle and channel , only thing left would be tires, wheels, hitch and lights.  What do you think your final cost will be ?



post #57 of 412
Thread Starter 

$400.00 +- 25 or so, but It will be exactly how I want it instead of dealing trying to Modify, the savings in labor will justify the added cost.


What do you think about that width?

post #58 of 412

Width sound about right to me  a little over 4'  definitely not to big  what do you think your overall length will be ?  Doesn't sound bad at all since you are doing all the labor. Reason I was wondering we have a trailer place just north of town that sells the parts and builds trailers.  My #2 son and I were going to build him a trailer so we went to price the parts and they could build it for about the same as we could. We may shop online for the parts like you and re-think ours. This last summer he completely re-built one of his trailers, new axel, springs, tires and wheels, boards and re-did the top rails.

I like your idea though $170 bucks not bad.



post #59 of 412
Thread Starter 

Buying it all in one kit saves money, I have Northern checking to see if they can get the same kit before I buy from these people.  It would add 100 bucks if I bout it all seperately.


I want there to be some storage under the cooking chamber for wood, but Im trying to keep it low and compact, still playing with it all, and would like to have axle before I start cutting channel up.

post #60 of 412

Understand,    Small and compact.   I like that.



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