- 4,612 Posts. Joined 9/2011
- Location: Florida.
- Points: 137
- Select All Posts By This User
Utility Cart Holding Cabinet Conversion - Should work well eh? - Page 2
SmokingMeatForums.com Top Picks
correct, thats what im going for with the auxilary firebox/mailbox mod. all that left is figuring out how to install the element and protect it.
First need to figure out whicih style to buy.
1000W stove top style?
Or cheap hotplate and modify it, something like this?
And then the strip style?
Here is the way mine is laid out. This was my first try with standard wire. I cut a 3/16" flat steel to fit in the shelf and cut a round hole for a round stove style burner. I now have the burner plate near the floor because I found it doesn't matter where I put it.
The burner is offset towards the front so there is room for AMNPS in the rear. (This just one idea.) Some day you will look back on how much fun you had building your smoker.
I do not have the round heat deflector under my element. That would cut down a lot of the heat and some insulation placed around but not under the burner would help. The Brinkman element you showed is raised and could be bolted to a plate.
Aluminum is good up to 1200 right? So how hot would the burner actually get if I set the pid to 300 (building a PID)?
Internal temp is 300 but the burner would be hotter than that.
I was thinking insulate between the plate and the floor and staying a few inches away from the element. With the heat deflector pan under the element it will force the plate to be about 2" above the floor. Room for insulation around your wires.
I found a small holding cabinet at an auction for $25
Replaced the element, and the controls actually work!
Still need to cut an intake and exhaust. It's stainless, so I'll have to get a plasma torch
Anyway, it's a simple way to make a great little smoker
The door seal on mine is rubber, and marginal at best
I'll most likely use a rope seal, and silicone it onto the door
Holding cabinets are a great way to make a smoker
Some are insulated
Most of them only heat to 175°, so you'll need to find an alternate heat source
My controller happens to work, but if it did not, I would invest in an Auber PID
Most Proofers or Holding Cabinets are NSF Approved. By adding a AMNPS or Tube Smoker to it, you now have a NSF Approved Smoker for far less than buying one from a Mfg.
The NSF sticker is missing on this one, but I really don't care
I have bought and sold 12 Proofers and/or Holding Cabinets. The cheapest I paid was $25 and the most expensive was $325. Some were way to nice to cut up into smokers and I resold to a restaurant.
Keep your eyes out for them!
And suggestions on nice looking vents/dampers/piping to use?
I thought bottom for intake as if I do add a small firebox I can come up through the bottom and still be all flush in the side.
Okay, getting ready to pull the trigger on everything for the PID controller. I want dual probes, one for smoke/box temp and 1 meat probe. Am i correct in assuming I can use this 2352P to set a temp manually and hold that temp? And then also have the ability to program temps using the ramp/soak feature? I just want to make sure I can manually set the temp too because it says in the description "This controller has all the features of the standard PID controller (except the manual control mode)." What exactly is manual control mode?
Also, do I need 2 SSR's or just the one? The 1512 will only be used to monitor internal meat temps on things like Turkeys, etc.
I called the company that manufactures Thermafiber Ultrabatt and they said it has not been tested for being around food. They said it is made from slag impurities skimmed off molten steel. It is spun like fiberglass into insulation. The guy I talked to said he wouldn't say it is safe for food because the impurities are not all the same and each would have to be tested. He said it is excellent home insulation and really expressed the sound proofing qualities.