Sausage maker Electric build - Page 3
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One thing to keep an eye on is how you attach your stove rope. I have a freezer build and my inside door panel is stainless. I used a black stove rope cement to adhere the rope to the door. The problem I had was the cement didn't want to stick to the stainless because of how smooth it was. It stuck just fine to the rope but there was nothing for the cement to grab onto with the stainless steel. It would hold for awhile but then would slowly start to peel away from the ss panel. I tried roughing the surface where the rope would be but I had to eventually drill small holes in door and use ss panhead screws through the stove rope into the door. I just worked some of the fibers over the screw and you can't even tell the screws are there. Might not be a problem for you but just in case.
Edited by fish killer - 10/16/13 at 6:43pm
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Yep...................great looking build there Tim...... its going to produce some awesome smoked sausage....... There are different grades of stainless and the lower grades will rust.... If quality stainless steel has rust it came from some where else... Something is imbedded into the stainless and that is whats rusting... A flap disc wont do the trick cause all you are doing is spreading the contamination around. An old can that had rusted in the spot at one time may be the culprit. To properly clean the stainless you will need to pickle and passivate it......
Temp Test. Since the rain was forecast I decided not to try sausage today but did hook up the element with out the PID controller and ran it full bore for a couple of hours. Temp got to 180 in 1hour 20 minutes. Ran it another 40 minutes and it looks like 180-185 is max. Was a little disappointed, would have thought I could break 200 easy in this thing?
When you place your hand on the outside of the smoker can you feel heat from the inside.? I'm assuming by the picture that it is pretty well insulated. How much if any heat do you lose from the intake vent? That looks pretty big in the picture. Try blocking half of it off and see if that makes a difference. I have a 3 inch intake and exhaust.
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I 2nd the air inlet being too large. That type is what most people with gas burners use and they need the massive air influx and gas burners produce way more heat than electrics like this do. Try closing it down or cover most of it with cardboard and tape on the outside and see what the temps do. Do you have a damper in the exhaust? If so close it down most of the way also. It does not take much air flow to keep the pellets burning and really all you need is just enough to keep them going.
Also, how much fiberglass insulation did you put in? Did you compress it or did you split the batts to make them thin so they would fit? 1,500watts has been used by others in this size cabinet before and I did not expect a heat problem in yours. One other thought. Check the PID and make sure it's not in manual mode. If it is, you may not be running at a 100% cycle and it may only be running part of the time.
I suspect the large air inlet is the main culprit, but I'm trying to think of others to check out...
I wouldn't recommend putting a damper on your exhaust. I'm not sure of the diameter that you have, I have 3 inch. You don't want to trap smoke , it needs to always moving. Try to control inflow of cold air, and increase heat . I have read a lot of posts of people who complain of bitter taste due to improper air flow. Your smoke generator will constantly be producing smoke. It needs good outflow.if you want to try and avoid buying a bigger heating element you might try linining the bottom of the chamber with fire brick. To serve as a heat sink. My other option if it were me would be to look into a hotter element. Whatever you decide, good luck , you will figure it out.