I have never had 'em smoked. There is a place in Carlsbad NM that is famous for them. They braise 'em. All my Cowboy cousins let the hands have 'em when they brand. That's a yearly thing, when this years yearlings arrive (usually around Halloween), they cut 'em and brand 'em and vaccinate 'em.
Its my understanding, that if they are braised they are mountain oysters (large bull huevos), if they are fried they are calf fries (yearling or younger), and when if the hands pull'em at the branding and heat 'em on the propane fire used for heating the irons its called plumb sick! LOL... an they will eat 'em till they get sick.