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PID Controller selcetion. HELP Needed.

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

After reading through the different threads on PID controllers I thought I had it all figured out, until I got to the ordering.

 

I am looking to use this exclusively for a sausage and jerky electric smoker. I really like the programmable features of the Aubers ramp soak PID's. From what I've read having a SSR is better than a manual relay. I thought I had it narrowed down to the Aubers SYL-2352P. But Now I am wondering if the SYL-2372P with the built in SSR output would be better. Seems like for a dollar more if you don't have to buy a SSR for $15-$20 this would be a better deal.  Or am I missing something, does the 2372P still need a SSR? Too much "Fuzzy Logic" overload!

 

Another question, it says that you can use two probes. Is there anything else needed to purchase besides the probes to make it all work. I want to order everything at once to save on shipping.

 

I purchased this 1500 watt element to use:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Brinkmann-812-3323-0-Smokeshop-Electric-Converter/dp/B0000AUSHQ

post #2 of 8

BBQ Guru has one called Raptor and it works with their nano q, cyber q and digi q. 

post #3 of 8

You missed a very important spec on the SYL-2372P, it only has a 2 amp SSR.  Cut and pasted from the specs section:

 

     "Output mode Built-in 2A SSR with zero crossing switching 20-240VAC"

 

2 amps is going to max out switching a 220watt load.  A 1,500 watt load is 13.64 amps at 110v. Basically the SYL2372P's SSR works as a switch for a triggering signal to control a larger load. So for that 1,500 watt element you still would need to add the bigger SSR and then add the DC triggering voltage source to be switched.  So at first glance the one with the built in SSR looks to be simpler, but in the final analysis it's not and actually would require more parts and a DC power source for the final triggering voltage (which the other one makes from the same power that runs the PID).

 

Go with the other PID with ramp/soak function and add a 25 amp SSR with adequate heat sink. The SYL-2352P is already set up to output the DC triggering voltage to the 25amp SSR. 

post #4 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by FWIsmoker View Post

BBQ Guru has one called Raptor and it works with their nano q, cyber q and digi q. 

Do any of the Guru's have a ramp feature? It doesn't really say on their website and that Raptor just looks like a $110 SSR.
post #5 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by S2K9K View Post


Do any of the Guru's have a ramp feature? It doesn't really say on their website and that Raptor just looks like a $110 SSR.

Here's some more info.

 

http://www.susanminor.org/smokers/WhoHowWhy/accessories.htm

post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by FWIsmoker View Post

Here's some more info.

http://www.susanminor.org/smokers/WhoHowWhy/accessories.htm

Thanks that's what I needed to know.
post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dward51 View Post

You missed a very important spec on the SYL-2372P, it only has a 2 amp SSR.  Cut and pasted from the specs section:

 

     "Output mode Built-in 2A SSR with zero crossing switching 20-240VAC"

 

2 amps is going to max out switching a 220watt load.  A 1,500 watt load is 13.64 amps at 110v. Basically the SYL2372P's SSR works as a switch for a triggering signal to control a larger load. So for that 1,500 watt element you still would need to add the bigger SSR and then add the DC triggering voltage source to be switched.  So at first glance the one with the built in SSR looks to be simpler, but in the final analysis it's not and actually would require more parts and a DC power source for the final triggering voltage (which the other one makes from the same power that runs the PID).

 

Go with the other PID with ramp/soak function and add a 25 amp SSR with adequate heat sink. The SYL-2352P is already set up to output the DC triggering voltage to the 25amp SSR. 

Thanks that's exactly what I needed to know!

 

I have all your wiring diagrams you've posted in other threads bookmarked. Just in case I need some additional help. I've wired things like this before but its always nice to have visuals to help along the way.

 

So I'll order the SYL 2353P, the 25amp SSR and I suppose a 10 lug terminal block would be nice to have too!

post #8 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtsailor2003 View Post

Thanks that's exactly what I needed to know!

 

I have all your wiring diagrams you've posted in other threads bookmarked. Just in case I need some additional help. I've wired things like this before but its always nice to have visuals to help along the way.

 

So I'll order the SYL 2353P, the 25amp SSR and I suppose a 10 lug terminal block would be nice to have too!


Sounds good to me. 

 

You could also consider adding a second temp controller as a thermal limit safety device.  All you need is one of their low end models and a 2nd SSR & temp probe.  You set it to only allow power to the 1st PID and 1st SSR as long as the pit temps are below the setpoint in that device.  If you have a run-a-way pit (SSR fails "ON" for some reason), then it kills all power and resets the first PID.  Does not cost much for the extra parts and there are several pits wired that way on here.  It also kills power if you have a grease fire and are not near the smoker when it happens.  No point in continuing to feed a fire.   The odds of two PID's and two SSR's failing at the same time are not even worth discussing.  Both have to be working for the smoker to work though.

 

This $37 PID would work and just needs a temp probe and another SSR to complete the safety package.  You could also use these with just a temp probe to serve as meat thermometers and "done" alarms. Add as many as you want.

 

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=14

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