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Scuba tank mini reverse flow - first build - Page 4

post #61 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobycat View Post

So I am resorting to techniques I have not used since I was a kid building go-carts head-wall.gif to get this hole made for the chimney. The hole saw worked OK for getting through the actual side wall of the tank but where it is cutting vertically through the end of the tank the wall thickness is at least 1/2". It is easy enough to drill this stuff but it absolutely kills blades of any type. So getting back to the go-cart thing  I am drilling small holes around the perimeter and when I get the piece knocked out I will clean it up with a file or die grinder.

Nothing wrong with that! Now you're talking my metal working skill level!
post #62 of 150
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtsailor2003 View Post


Nothing wrong with that! Now you're talking my metal working skill level!


Dirtsailor, you would have got a kick outta watching me beat that slug out with a hammer!  I finally got it out!! I killed my new drill though (the spindle developed a wobble causing broken drill bits).  I really wanted to make a nice clean hole but this thing was starting to beat me. To be honest I actually took it by a welding shop to see if they would take pity and just plasma cut it out for a sixpack.  I guess the guy didn't drink because he wanted to charge me  $35.00 and told me I would never get the piece out with the tools  I had. Well I still have my $35 bucks a sixpack And a  hole for my chimney, I am now drinking a beer  admiring my handiwork.

post #63 of 150
Thread Starter 

So I guess this is how they made my cookchamber

post #64 of 150
Thread Starter 

The chimney hole of doom and the slug that came out

post #65 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobycat View Post

The chimney hole of doom and the slug that came out




That's one thick chunk of metal!!! Bummer about the drill. If I think I might ruin a power tool, I'll go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheapie to use rather than use my good one.
post #66 of 150

I just cut my chimney hole on the weekend and broke a drill. It still works, but whatever the mechanism is that changes it from straight drill to hammer drill let go as soon as the hole saw touched the tank... still works as a straight drill with a bit more noise. I really took my time after reading about your struggles. Made sure to keep cooling the hole saw, etc... took a while but worked out. I don't think my tank was nearly as hard as yours because we could put a nice center punch mark in it with little effort. 

 

Glad to hear you finally got it out, too bad the tool body count was so high. 

post #67 of 150
Quote:

  I guess the guy didn't drink because he wanted to charge me $35.00 and told me I would never get the piece out with the tools I had

Some are more worried about making a buck rather than building a respectable business. The two minutes it would have taken to cut the hole for free would cost less that the reputation he will get for trying to hustle you for $35.00.

post #68 of 150

Dirt.....  If you would have brought it north, a few hundred miles to OMAK, I would have cut it with the plasma AND bought the beer......   How could you beat that deal..... 

post #69 of 150
Thread Starter 

Chimney is welded in, sticks into the chamber about  1-1/2" .  Starting to look like a smoker! still things to do..

 

 

1. drill and weld in grease drain for reverse flow plate

DONE 2. weld in dam for end of reverse flow plate

3. hinges or liftoff door for cook chamber

4. intake vent for firebox

5. chimney damper

DONE 6. latch for firebox

DONE 7. grate for firebox

8. build base
 


Edited by Tobycat - 8/24/13 at 6:54pm
post #70 of 150

Looking more and more like a smoker..... Don't give up now.......    

 

Dave

post #71 of 150

that is gonna be an awsome little cooker  and please dont take this the wrong way but reminds me of a dachshund dog in one of those wheel chairs

post #72 of 150
Thread Starter 

Anyone have opinions on the type of intake vent for the firebox? going to use two 1" holes but not sure on slider vs. rotating. Need pros and cons

 

If I use a slider both holes will be parallel on the lower side of the firebox at the fire grate level.

 

If I use a rotater one hole will be towards the bottom at grate level and one hole at about the middle of the firebox more inline with the  firebox to cookchamber opening.

post #73 of 150

Toby,

 

If you use round intakes be sure to allow sufficient overlap on the stoppers for air seal.  Things have to be flush and square to seal tight.  Given the 1" size maybe you could use

a plumbing valve.

 

Its looking good....cooks are not that far off

 

RG
 

post #74 of 150

Looking great! make it towable so you can pull it behind a bike!

 

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/83093/home-made-smoker-trailer-for-a-bicycle

post #75 of 150

Toby, morning.....  Think about one at fire grate level and one above the grate, across from the FB/CC opening...   Bottom inlet controls the heat of the fire.....  top opening moves the heat through the smoker....    Seems to work well on larger smokers......    If you do that, I would put slide gates on them.... 

 

Dave

post #76 of 150
Thread Starter 

Hi Dave , most likely going with a two hole slider at the grate level and see how it burns before adding an upper vent. My big hangup now is I cant decide on what I want to do for the base. I have two different ideas for the small patio style base.  I was also thinking about welding on some type of receiver/bracket on the bottom of the cookchamber so I could also mount it on a pole attached to a heavy patio umbrella stand so I don't have to crouch down all the time.  I know my back will thank me.
 

post #77 of 150
Thread Starter 

Dirtsailor, I was thinking I could mount it on a gimbal and take it on the Wednesday night beer can sailboat races here in Santa Cruz.
 

post #78 of 150
Thread Starter 

A few pics of the recent progress, firebox latch with stainless rod and spring handle. reverse flow plate dam, and the base.

Anybody want to tell me what I did wrong to make that tube bend out of shape when I welded it??

I am using drilled out square nuts hammered into the tube to support the axle. That's it for now , I need to buy a deep enough clamp to jig up  the base leg against the fire box to weld it on. This has been a good project to accumulate the tools I will need for my full size build. I still need a way to effectively cut thick steel = Plasma or Torch.  I would also really like to have a roll bender.


Edited by Tobycat - 9/4/13 at 9:34pm
post #79 of 150

Looking good......    How did you get the leg to bend that much.....   :biggrin: ....

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tobycat View Post
 

 

 

Anybody want to tell me what I did wrong to make that tube bend out of shape when I welded it??

 

 

Welding the pieces in the wrong sequence had part of the blame......  full welds and not "tacking" the pieces in place...   not letting the welds cool before starting a weld on another section.....   

And welding that pattern of steel is almost impossible to not have it bend....   I weld and the stuff still bends when I don't want it to....

 

Dave

post #80 of 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobycat View Post
 

A few pics of the recent progress, firebox latch with stainless rod and spring handle. reverse flow plate dam, and the base.

 

 

Anybody want to tell me what I did wrong to make that tube bend out of shape when I welded it??

 

I just figured you were turning it into a cradle or rocking chair! Lull those pork butts to perfection!

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