New Smoker - Heat Source

That's one nice looking smoker. You got skills! I have a similar setup and the exact same heat source problem. Seen many guys using propane but I'd like to stay on electric as you. Hope you get some tips - I am in need of the same!

I tried tweaking the bimetal strip on the temp control knob so that it opens at hotter temp. Sure enough it ran hotter but it went too hot, melted some cables and almost burned by smoker down... So that might not be the way to go.

I've been looking at maybe taking the heating element from an old sauna heater or or a regular oven. Those are typically around 2KW. Fabricating a metal box and fill it with stones for heat sink in the sauna heater style. Should be possible to find an old oven for parts at the local recycling facility for free... Should work (famous last words).

Cheers /Wes

Hello Smoker, Do you have access to 240 volt if so I would go that way with a 2100w element.  If not then I would get rid of the hotplates and go with a 120v 1500w element. If you have access to two different 120v circuits then you could use two 1500w elements. I can give you links to the elements.

Stan

I'm 99.9% sure the hotplate I see in that photo will have a thermal limit device "somewhere" in the housing.  If it is UL listed (look for a sticker) it will have it.  The big clue is the element is red hot but is cutting off at some point (when the thermal limit device hit's it temp limit).

Since you already have the hot plates, I would just remove the two elements and use them.  2,000 watts should be plenty of heat in an insulated cabinet.  My only concern is 2,000 watts is going to draw around 16-17amps at 120 which is getting close to maxing out a 20 amp breaker and is over current on a 15 amp breaker.  Depending on what else is on the same circuit, that may be a problem.

I did not see any signs of a PID or other temperature control on your smoker photos.  Do you have one or were you going to use the dial on the hot plate to adjust temps? I would recommend a PID type controller and SSR relay to switch the elements on and off if you don't already have it set up that way.  This setup is in use by a lot of forum members and is proven to hold temps very tightly (within a degree or two is common). Using the dial on the hot plate will not work as it will shut off (as you have already found out).  And if you bypass the limit switch the element may overheat the hot plate housing and melt or damage it as the plate is basically "on" all the time.  Like I said, a PID controller is the way to go and the Auberins units are very popular here.  They have parts to build your own or fully assembled control units with temp probes.  Here is their website

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

Here is a photo I found of that same type hot plate element which someone used in a Alton Brown flower pot smoker.  This is what you need in the smoker, the wires to the element are most likely press on fittings (as these were) and can be pulled off to free the element (varies by brand).  Just use high temp wire of proper gauge to the SSR and you should be good to go (assuming your breaker is a 20 amp breaker).

If you decide to change out the element, the 1,500 element that is for the Brinkmann smoker is in use in a lot of smokers on this site.  They run about $30 or so on Amazon and can also be found at Bass Pro Shops, Academy Sports, etc... on the store shelf.  The 1,500 watt element would also draw less amperage and would probably work on a 15amp breaker depending on what else was on the circuit.

swechef mentioned the solution and the problem.....   Removing the over temp switch will let them heat up.... removing the element from the body will keep it from melting.... a new support system and remote temp sensor would  work..... I think your smoker may be a a bit too big and the 220V  PID set up, dward suggested, would be perfect.... 

By the way, that's one beautiful smoker....  enjoy it for many years....   Dave

Also I just noticed this...  are those white plastic chains for the bottom heat chamber door supports?  Or is that just a trick of the light hitting metal chains?  Non-galvanized I would take it.

Just posted this on another thread

Pam Spray for the grates.

Season dry.

Just place some hardwood in and smoke away.

Yes, galvanized metal can off gas some dangerous fumes when heated, it's called zinc poisoning.  Not sure if it will get hot enough in your smoker, but why take a chance?  Bare steel, stainless or brass chains would be OK though.

Use the search function on the side to look at info on PID controllers.  Basically it's a little computer control that you set a desired "set point" to cook at (say 225*) and the controller will provide power to your electric element as needed to maintain that set point.  A normal setup included the PID controller, the temperature probe, and some sort of relay to control the heat source. Most people use a SSR (Solid State Relay) which is an electronic switch.  It takes the low amperage, low voltage output from the PID to switch a larger amperage & voltage load on and off (ie, your heating element).

Auberins makes models that are very popular here.  They have parts to build your own, and pre-made control modules.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

here is a pre-made model that would run one of your 1,000 watt elements or the 1,500 watt brinkmann element.   If you want to run both of your elements, you will have to build something as I don't think they have an off the shelf ready to run module for 2,000 watts or more (and you would want it rated a little higher than the maximum load). 

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=203


Before I would spend the money on the prebuilt model, I would take one of those 1,000 watt elements out of the housing and run it straight (ie, hard wired to 120v so it's on 100% of the time when plugged in).  Let this sit in the cabinet and see what sort of temps you get.  If you are not happy with the output, then add the 2nd 1,000 watt element and run them.  I would think the two will output more heat than you want/need and the best mix is between them.  There are a lot of fridge conversions on this site that use the use the 1,500 watt brinkmann element and many of those appear to have more interior volume than your smoker does in the photos. So I'm fairly certain that element would work for you if you need more than 1,000 watts.

If you want to use both of the 1,000 watt elements you have now, then you have to build a custom PID to run both your elements.  It's not hard to do, but you will be working with electricity and if not done right, well it could be dangerous.

Den, you are getting great advice...nothing I could add to what these guys have said.  When you get the heating issue solved, you're gonna have one beautiful rig!  Very impressive skills, brother!  Be sure to post some pics of that beast in action.

Den....... That's one beautiful smoker....  Nice build....  Congrats on the super job....   Dave

Looks good.....      .....    Dave

Looking good