Very informative Ribwizzard a good post and I like the idea about the different thread for each part of a smoker. That would be great.
When doing my tank the top and bottom of the door was cut with cut-off wheel all the way. I then scored sides with cut-off so as not to loose my line. Only after installing the hinges did I finish cutting the sides. I encountered no warpage do to little to no heat was applied to door. Did go through about 10 cutting wheels. Trick is don't push let them cut.
I just wanted to let you know I had to edit one of your posts and delete a link. As per @TulsaJeff and our User Guidelines, offsite links are not permitted to be posted on this forum.
Here is a link to the edited post:
Thank You for understanding,
That's OK, edit my posts as you like
This time of year is crazy busy getting everthing ready for the equipment auctions we have here in Florida.
But I promise, when I get back to my tinkering, Ill start doing more posts like this.
Hope everyones builds are going good.
Ive been a little busy with other projects lately, but next build Im going to try to go into more detail. I want to "blue print " the next one before I start and actually post the plans, material list, and post the actual build costs associated with it. Just give me another week or so to get started. I also hope to have plenty of input from the other great builders on here and input on what everyone thinks would be the "best designed smoker" I am seriously thinking about fine tuning a design and starting up manufacturing and marketing of a nice patio sized smoker. I have all the resources and connection's, just need to devote myself to it if that what I decide to do.
After reviewing this a couple times I decided my cooker need to have this done to it instead of the way the door flanges were currently on.
I am in the middle of putting the flanges on and I was wondering how you get the top and bottom flanges to follow the tanks shape. If it stays tangent you get gaps and was wondering what you do to get them to fit nice? I got the side ones to match easy enough but I would like the tops and bottoms to match as nicely.
I usually will use 1.25" by 1/8 " flat bar on large cookers and 1" by 3/32" on the mini's. On the large I will only have 1/2" of the flat bar be the flange. and will work it slightly with a hamer to help form it. If it is way off, take two creasant wrenches and install them on the flat bar snug, right next to each other. With one wrench hold the flange and the other to start tweaking the flange, and work your way down the flange until you get to the end.
Im hope you understand what Im trying to explain.
That is what I had planned on doing but wanted to make sure you didn't have any more little secret tricks on doing that. Only difference is mine will be 1/4 x 2 bar stock because I have a lot of it laying around and this is the prefect use for it. It forms nicely on the ends so I think I should be able to work the top and bottom with out too much headache. I guess worst case I add some heat to to get them to form easier.
I don't think I will use any, I haven't used any on it yet and it has done pretty well. Its not quite as efficient as it could be but, I have a lot of creek bottoms that are family owned that I get my wood from so for me its really not worth the hassle.
I work for a trailer manufacturer so I have access to a lot of heavier material but its all next to nothing in cost, so some stuff ends up being over built but the price is right.
I don't know why I didn't think of it sooner, but I am going to use the press break at work to put a slight kink in the top and bottom flanges so that I should minimize the amount of manual fit up. I did some figuring and I should have to deflect it around .033" to get it real dang close.
Ther you go, I would think about using the gasket material as well. I order Rutland black stove sealant from local Ace, and put a bead on the backside of the flange on the door, it holds up very well and also keeps the door from "banging" when you close it. It just gives it that "quality feel".
Just a recommendation.
Well I am considering the gasket, I was wondering do you let it setup completely before shutting the doors, or do you let it skim over, lay some plastic wrap over the cooker and set the door down so it can form to the tank without sticking?
I use plastic wrap, or masking tape with waxed backing. Word of advise, I do this after I paint the cooker, and I do paint the backside of the door with one light coat. If you apply the gasket material to fresh sandblasted metal, something in it will cause the area next to it to surface rust very fast, like by the time the gasket is set up.
Do you think this would be a similar product to your rutland silicone? Its more readily available for me.