Building a New Smoker, Need a controller for 220v

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marshalgriffith

Newbie
Original poster
Dec 23, 2012
4
10
Hello,

I am turning an old upright freezer into an electric smoker and have a 220 v heat source.  I am looking for a controller/probe set up.  I have never built a smoker, but I am pretty handy around the house with wiring and have a wiring schematic that I found on the internet.  If anyone can send direct me to some place that has economic prices, I would certainly appreciate it.

Marsha
 
Thanks,

I was hoping to buy parts that were not specifically for the meat industry because I thought they might be cheaper, but I am not sure exactly what I need to buy.  I have looked on ebay and things were cheap there, but I wanted to buy from the US.
 
Just buy a PID with a probe type k and a ssr that will handle 240 most do off ebay.  The pid does not care what voltage just the ssr.  the one I got was $39.00

Stan
 
Thanks so much.  Here is the wiring schematic I found.  Does this look right to you?

WIRING%20OVENUS.jpg
 
I've also seen 220v setups where only one leg of the 220v circuit was switched by a single SSR.  Either way will work.  Here is a diagram Walleye1 posted a while back.  He used a 2nd control unit to switch a contactor as a master over temperature safety (it cut the power to the SSR and element if the temps got above the set safety level if his PID controller failed or there was a grease fire).   Note he also pulled 120v for the two controllers, SSR fan and his heat source in his diagram.

 
Last edited:
Marshallgriffith

You can't go wrong with Auber Instruments. I've built a number of smokers including two different 220v setups and all of them have used Auber parts. He is pretty reasonably priced too.

Mike
 
BTW: There is no reason to have an SSR on both legs going to the element. Stopping the current on one leg stops the element from heating.

current = voltage / resistance

So if current = 0, there is no voltage so the element is off.
 
BTW: There is no reason to have an SSR on both legs going to the element. Stopping the current on one leg stops the element from heating.

current = voltage / resistance

So if current = 0, there is no voltage so the element is off.
Grupe you are correct but by only dropping one leg still leaves voltage potential is still in the heatnig element.  To do things correctly and safely you should break both legs on a 240v circuit.  This can be done with a 2 pole relay or SSR
 
Have you considered using a control board from an old oven? I've got that on my fridge and my temp fluxuations are only about 10-15 degrees. If you looking for a cheap solution this would be a good choice.
 
After first trying to order the controller in the United States and the SSR and thermoocoupler separate and being unable to get it to work.  I ordered HandymanStan's suggested group of equipment from China.  It worked great.  We spent this week smoking smokies and brats for the past two days and it worked great.  Never straying more than a degree or two.  Although the first day we watched it carefully, by today we are confident that if we chose, we could bake cakes or pies even.  It is that accurate.  Thanks HandymanStan!
 
 
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