pid to hot plate

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sawyer

Newbie
Original poster
Dec 18, 2012
26
10
   Hi guys ,

  quick question , I am building an electric smoker using a pid. I ordered a replacment burner element for an electric oven on line wich is just the coil alone for my heat sorce. It seams everyone is using hot plates tho? Is this because i need the wireing from the hot plate to power it? or can i plug direct into the relay and get power without blowing myself up? any direction would help a lot. or if im posting in the wrong area please let me know.

thanks guys.
 
Bare elements work best.... wire it into the hot side of the controlling stuff... If you need to reduce the output of the element to cool it down, think about a dimmer switch to reduce it's wattage...   Hot plates have a major drawback... the limit switch to keep them from melting the housing... they don't get hot enough...   Dave
 
   so then the dimmer switch would take the place of the temp controle on a hot plate so to speak? but set back from the heat?

    Will the PID controle the watage of the bare element alone? or do i need a dial to adjust it myself.. I was thinking of going right in like you 

said but i just want to make sure the wattage wont get out of controle and over heat / short everything out.
 
If the electronics will handle it, put the dimmer between the controller and the element....  then you can vary the output of the element, say from 100 watts to 800 watts... and anywhere in between...     would keep the element from coming on full blast and that would temper the heat....  Dave
 
The PID itself can be programmed to restrict the power output if you really wanted to, although I never do on any of my smokers. My largest one is 220v & 3000 watts. You really don't need a dimmer switch. I'm familar with the Auber PIDs. Here is a direct quote out of one of the manuals...

4.12 Output range limits "OUTL" and "OUTH"

[font=Arial,Arial][font=Arial,Arial]OUTL and OUTH allow you set the output range low and high limit.OUTL is a useful feature for a system that needs to have a minimum amount of power as long as the controller is powered. e.g. If OUTL=20, the controller will maintain a minimum of 20% power output even when input sensor failed.OUTH can be used when you have an overpowered heater to control a small subject. e.g. If you set the OUTH=50, the 5000 watt heater will be used as 2500W heater (50%) even when the PID wants to send 100% output.[/font][/font]

In addition to the PID you will want to control the power swiching with a SSR.

Mike
 
Sawyer

I couldn't find a manual for the PID you are using but I would think it will work fine. I'm assuming by the 2100 watt element it is likely 220v? Do you have a SSR (Solid State Relay) with a heat sink?

Here is a link on putting a controller together for a smoker that may also be helpful. I could also post my wiring diagram but it has quite a few additional things in it that may be confusing. 

http://www.susanminor.org/forums/showthread.php?315-PID-Controller&p=504#post504

Mike
 
    That helps, thank you for the link . I do have a heat sink for the SSR. what do you think adding fuses ? im not sure if i need them or not.
 
Hi Sawyer

I usually rule on the side of safety and use fuses. I always run a 1 amp slow blow fuse for the power that runs the PID. I also run fuses on the hot side of the circuit before it gets to the SSR, these fuses need to be the sppropreate size for you load.

Mike
 
another concern,   what amp rating should my plugs be? i currently have a 10 A  250V  plug for power witch i got on accident and a 15A 250V that will connect to the hot plate. should they match? should they have higher ratings to max out the element?    
 
 i currently have a 10 A  250V  plug for power witch i got on accident and a 15A 250V that will connect to the hot plate. should they match? 

The female plug should match the circuit breaker amperage.....   the male plug on the cord, should match also....  All wiring should match the amperage of the circuit breaker also or larger amp rating....  Dave
 
I have a thought if you are cheap. (Like me) Often when appliances are sold the old units are hauled off and end up sitting behind the appliance store.  You don't really care what kind of element you use so you can scrounge the old burners.  Other things you can scrounge are things like heat resistant wire, oven insulation, etc.

Ask nice and don't make a mess and you should have an endless supply of free parts.

If you local appliance store won't let you scrounge, you can also look on craigslist free section, old stoves are commonly available.
 
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