MF Door Mod Question

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roadkill cafe

Smoking Fanatic
Original poster
Jan 28, 2012
766
40
South Florida
Ok, got a couple issues I could use a few suggestions on. I have the Master Forge Dual Door gasser, and as just about anyone with this unit knows, the doors don't seal very well at all. When I first bought it I tracked down the rope gasket (fireplace stores are not to be found here in S. Florida) and applied it. After a couple smokes the adheisive/cement became rock hard and the gasket fell off upon opening the door. Next I tried the Big Green Egg felt gasket. I thought that would work well but after the first smoke (buffalo wings) it cooked to a crisp. I would love to get this unit back into working order. Ideas????

The 2nd issue is no matter what I've tried, my wood chunks and/or chips always catch fire. I've tried soaking, raising the chip pan, wrapping the pan lid with foil. Always flames to heavy, white smoke instead of TBS.

Any and all suggestions are welcomed. Thanks...Steve
 
An easy inexpensive way to make a door seal is to get some high temp silicone (RTV), you can get it at auto parts stores. Permatex Ultra Back works good. Clean the edge of the smoker where the door meets it really good with some degreaser and wipe it dry, make sure you clean it really good. Then run a bead of the RTV around the same edge and cut some plastic wrap in long strips and press onto the RTV. Now close the door and latch it and let it sit for 4 or 5 hours to let the RTV set up. Open the door and peel off the plastic wrap and you have a form fitting gasket that will last a very long time.

A couple of things to try with the chip pan. You might have to raise it higher and play with the height to find the right spot. You could also try a different pan. A lot of people use a cast iron frying pan with good results. And if all else fails you could get an AMNTS, the Tube smoker from A-Maze-N Products, I've seen a lot of people using the Tube in propane smokers with very good results and it will provide perfect smoke for 4-5 hours without having to refill it.
 
If you have access to a sawsall cut a half inch off of the front and back of the water pan. This will allow heat to reach the smoke chamber with a much lower flame. What temps are you running in your smoker, and are you going by the factory therm on the door? I was having flare ups till I realized my door therm was 60* off. Was running a lot hotter than I thought. Since I trimmed the water pan I run my flame on low. You can also take the bottom vents off bend the tab over and put them on backwards. This will seal up the vents tighter. I don't ever open them, enough air gets into the unit from underneath. When you open them all you do is lose heat which in turn again makes you run the flame higher which will cause chip flare ups. I usually run with chimney half open with great results, but after the mods I sometimes have to open it all the way to let some heat out.


David
 
Thanks for the ideas guys. Think I'll give the RTV a try. Certainly can't hurt and is cheap. Wondering if there would be any concerns with any fumes from this type (automotive) sealer? I'm not going by the door thermo. I know they're garbage on this unit. First one ran about 100* too low, MF sent a replacement and it runs about 50* too high. I use a Maverick 732 now. I don't have a sawsall but will ask a few of my friends as they might. If not, I guess I'll try drilling some 1/2" holes in the edges. Think I might hit a few yard sales and thrift stores to find a POS Lodge or Made in China cast iron skillet. No way I'm going to trash my trusty Griswolds or Wagner Ware! I'll let you know how it turns out. Seriously considering moving to an MES 40. Will definitely invest in one of Todd's AMNPS if I go that route.

Thanks again guys....Steve
 
I was getting frustrated with mine till I did those mods. It is like a completely different unit now. I love it. Getting over 40 hours on a 20 Lb. tank.


David
 
Wow, 40 hrs. on one 20 lb. tank is great!! While looking at the inside of the unit I just saw another issue where cutting the front/rear edges off the water pan may not be enough. Mine is the "new" style unit that has the drip diverters welded on all 4 sides above the pan. This would still block the heat from rising. Going to have to ponder on this one for a bit. Stopped in Sam's to look at the MES 40 and just my luck, was told only available online now (at least in my area).
 
Can you snap a pic of the inside. Maybe I could help with some ideas. Haven't seen the inside of the new model.


David
 
Yeah, I'll swing by Harbor Freight Tools and see if they have a decent cutting wheel. Have to pick up a wire wheel to remove the crispy gasket anyway. Found the MES 40 at a Sam's about 30 miles away. The temptation is getting stronger.
 
Well, I just couldn't stand it any longer and decided I needed some retail therapy. Picked up the MES 40 at Bass Pro Shop today. Couldn't talk them into matching Sam's price but still got the Mgr. to knock $50.00 off for a $379.99 total. Comes close on the total as I don't have a Sam's membership ($40.00) and if you use the one day pass they jack the price up 10%. Besides, Sam's was another 15 miles further away. I'll still whip the MF gasser into shape and use it when the wind isn't whipping like it has been the past few days (15 mph). It was real fun trying to get this thing in my Honda Civic in the rain (I miss my truck!) but we managed to wiggle it into the back seat (trunk was a no go). Time to get building and figure out where the heck I'm going to store it on my tiny, filled up screened in patio. If there's a will, there's a way!!
 
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