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Vintage Hobart Slicer Restoration

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Hopefully this is not jacking your thread, did you have to take the motor out? I am doing a restore on the same model and I am having a hell of a time pulling the motor itself out of the casing.

P.S. Amazing work. I hope that mine comes out half as good!

Thank you for any information that you can provide! 
 
Chris Blazer said:
 
Hopefully this is not jacking your thread, did you have to take the motor out? I am doing a restore on the same model and I am having a hell of a time pulling the motor itself out of the casing.

P.S. Amazing work. I hope that mine comes out half as good!

Thank you for any information that you can provide! 
Click to expand...
Some motors have access holes where the motor brushes can be released from the commutator...    look for some type of access point....   google rebuilding that particular motor....
 
I ended up getting it all apart and decided it was not worth it. Back together it went and now I need to pick a paint for this thing... I love the red that OP went with, however, I may need to switch it up.
 
Be sure to use an etching primer or your paint won't stick.....  I have used this primer on an outboard motor bracket I built for my boat...  14 years later, the paint is still like new... 

Product description

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For aluminum surfaces above or below the waterline. This powerful primer etches into the aluminum, forming a strong surface/primer union that is resistant to corrosion. For steel and iron surfaces, especially welded joints. This corrosive barrier contains 95% of zinc, for maximum resistance against solvents & abrasions.

 
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Just found this after acquiring same model.Going to go the same route and color.Yours looks awesome!!Disassembly is about 80%done.Found out by accident that TSP90Heavy duty cleaner (from red devil)is a great paint stripper.Didn't plan on it,but cut (50+years?) old grease real well,when I came back after soaking it ,the paint came of also...
 
I just picked up a Hobart 411 myself today and plan on restoring it...it's pretty much all there and seems to run great. I am looking for the part on the under side that fits into the shaft of the thickness arm on top..I believe it attaches with a set screw and has a bearing that rides in a groove also underneath... Anyone having any info on where I could find one would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
 
I'm missing only three parts to mine. I have it all freed up from years of crud buildup. I'm missing the same cam that you are describing. And also the thumbscrew that adjusts the tension on the meat slice, and one screw from the carriage. I'm attaching the original manual for it.
 

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20180719_172338.jpg 20180719_154740.jpg 20180719_154756.jpg 20180719_154934.jpg 20180719_154956.jpg I was doing some storage room cleaning at the nursing home I work at and found an old Hobart 411 tucked away in a far corner. It looks in good shape. I plugged it in and turned it on and it worked, but it sounds like the blade is scraping on something. I'm attaching a few pictures. I'm willing to part it out as a number of posts seem to be looking for parts. I've attached pictures, if you see a part you are looking for please contact me by email and make me an offer. Thanks.
 
I have a Hobart 411 in very goof condition. I have disassembled degreassed the whole machine and everything is working smoothly. I am located in CT but was wondering best way to sell this and a fair price. I can add pictures if needed or wanted. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Ed
 
I just picked up a Hobart 311 that had all it’s parts. I learned a lot from this thread and I plan on using a lot of technique I picked up, so thanks fo sharing.

A question regarding paint, would this Rustoleum primer work?

1607284598093.jpeg


Or, should I get the brand from Amazon?
 
See post #104....
Use that type of primer and then spray an oil based paint over the primer... like high gloss rustoleum... I wold NOT use any fast dry products.. use the old style Rustoleum.. that's what I used on my Duckworth boat.... Clean the aluminum metal, after sanding or what ever you do with several wipes using a clean paper towel and acetone to get off any oily residue.. If you notice any black residue as you are wiping it to clean, THAT is the instantly forming "rust"... oxidation .....
After going to all the trouble of refinishing, you surely don't want the paint to flake off....
Aluminum is a totally different animal to paint.... It "rusts" instantly when cut or sanded forming an aluminum oxide on the surface regular paints will NOT stick to...
 
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Good deal. I’m sure I’ll be asking more questions, will start a new thread when I get to work. Got another project to finish first, hopefully be on the slicer soon.
 
I just bought a Hobart 411 slicer at an auction. It's almost complete. I'm missing the rear blade guard and the 13201 truing wheel on the sharpener was broken. The 13200 sharpening wheel still looks good. I've got it completely disassembled other than the motor housing. I can't tell if the motor cap is threaded on or pressed in. Any suggestions for removing it? This thing was completely filthy and I want to completely clean it, strip off all the chipped paint, etc.
 
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