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"Baron Von Schwein" 120 Gallon Horizontal Tank RF Build. QVIEW! - Page 9

post #161 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by subvet View Post

Nice work this weekend.  Until you get a new drill, you could use square u-bolts to hold it down.  I don't remember if it was suggested earlier or not, but you might want to weld some cross pieces on your firebox door on the inside to keep it from warping.  It usually isn't a problem on the thicker steel doors but with the ~24 gauge steel on the tank you have, it might have some issues.  It might not be a bad idea to put a piece just below your grate and about the same distance from the top on the door end as well.  The vent end still has the integrity of rounded bottom, as well as, the  heavy-duty insert you welded on.

Dont worry, Ill get the bolts in. There are other drills to destroy I just ran out of time. Your explanation for the firebox reinforcements make sense. I was just imagining something external  and rounded that I had no idea how to fabricate. I don't want to lose any space inside the firebox so I will have to come up with something creative. Do I just need to reinforce the firebox? And just on the door end?
 

 

post #162 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrian View Post

Loved reading this thread.  Thanks for the entertainment!  When this is all done, are you going to make it look like a pig, as others have done?  th_roflmao.gif

 

Thanks again,

Brian


Haha Na, just black like all the others. Easier to touch up or repaint if I make changes.

 

post #163 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmasterpfautz View Post

Dont worry, Ill get the bolts in. There are other drills to destroy I just ran out of time. Your explanation for the firebox reinforcements make sense. I was just imagining something external  and rounded that I had no idea how to fabricate. I don't want to lose any space inside the firebox so I will have to come up with something creative. Do I just need to reinforce the firebox? And just on the door end?
 

 

I think that your vent end of the firebox will be just fine.  The only thing that concerns me is the door end.  I think that if you just use a piece of re-bar just below the grate  and similarly on the top it would do the trick.  You won't be losing much to do it that way.  I think you will still be able to get some big pieces of wood in there.

 

Externally, you might be able to accomplish the same thing and disguise it as a hot plate/ warming table.

 

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It could go nearly the whole length of the fire box on top and notch around the cooking vessel.  If you tack it with the plate steel sitting on top and where the flat stock comes down on the sides you will probably add enough strength on top to do the trick.  At the same time that you make a long weld, do it a little at a time to avoid warping.  It would defeat the whole purpose of what you are doing.
 

 

post #164 of 317

Awesome name for an awesome project.

I wouldn't mind a trailer smoker of this scale.

I'll put it on the list, just after "Ford go fast car", or maybe before...

post #165 of 317
Thread Starter 
post #166 of 317

Had an exciting day! Got a few loose ends buttoned up and brought her home for  a few weeks. Was able to get the first burn in going tonight. No signs of major warping. A little in the main door but nothing that will cause problems. Still missing the reverse flow plate and all the accessories but I think its far enough to test out. I am going to do a pork but next weekend for my grad party so I want to get one more burn in done this week. Any advice on seasoning this thing? I read other places that you season it like a cast iron skillet by spraying veg oil inside it when it gets to around 300º.

 

These are the plates for the intake. WHAT A PAIN! I tried milling the slots and destroyed the end mill that work let me borrow. I think my spindle speed was too high. So I ended up drilling holes at either end of each slot and cutting them out with the grinder this morning. I should have just went and got them laser or water cut. Oh well... its done. Live and learn.

2011-12-10_09-18-25_309.jpg

Finished intake baffles. I needed handles so I figured I would make them myself. Pretty easy. for the center part I used a piece of 1" angle and cut the one leg off so there was enough left for the plate to slide under. I then welded the cutoff from the angle to the opposite side to hold the top plate.

2011-12-10_16-07-12_249.jpg

Reinforced the door end of the firebox with some rebar on top and welded the front edge of the rack for the bottom. There were no signs of warping during the burn in and I had it way hotter then it will ever be run at.

2011-12-10_16-08-42_729.jpg

Latch I got off amazon. Its a great latch but it is TINY!!

2011-12-10_16-06-29_366.jpg

Temporary handle.

2011-12-10_16-08-50_390.jpg

BURN IN!!!!!!

2011-12-10_17-11-22_337.jpg

 

post #167 of 317

Looking good!  I wouldn't  do any more fires in the main cooking area though.  Next time, just heat the whole thing up by way of the fire box and do the spray oil thing.  You can spray it down before you even light the fire.  It might just be an optical illusion, but the handle on the cooking area door looks like a knuckle burner.  A space of about 2" does the trick quite well.  The handle will be warm but it won't burn you and you will have room to reach in there without a problem.  The surface area of the tank will roughly equal the internal temp of the cooker after it has been running awhile and it only has to be about 140* to burn your skin.  I'm not sure how familiar you are with these big cookers, but I have found that no matter what I do to start any of my smokers, just short of use a torch, it always takes me about an hour to get it up to cooking temp.  When they say low and slow, they're not just taking about the cooking part!

 

I'm not sure but you also might observe some silicon drip on your firebox handle.

 

Judging by the lack of burn marks on the paint of the main cooking chamber door, I also see a potential for condensation to drip out of your main cooking door.  After you have used your cooker a few times and it is well seasoned, you will notice on start up that there is black fluid dripping out of the main chamber door.  This will start when the cooker reaches about 150-160*.  It will last until you hit 212* when you hit the flash point for steam and it will just go out the stack.  To prevent having to clean this up every time you start it, you could weld a piece of flat stock at an angle near the bottom edge of the main cooking chamber door.  This will cause the condensation to drip back in the cooker and not out the door.  As previously mentioned, be sure to only weld a little at a time on this to prevent warping the door.

post #168 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by subvet View Post

Looking good!  I wouldn't  do any more fires in the main cooking area though.  Next time, just heat the whole thing up by way of the fire box and do the spray oil thing.  You can spray it down before you even light the fire.  It might just be an optical illusion, but the handle on the cooking area door looks like a knuckle burner.  A space of about 2" does the trick quite well.  The handle will be warm but it won't burn you and you will have room to reach in there without a problem.  The surface area of the tank will roughly equal the internal temp of the cooker after it has been running awhile and it only has to be about 140* to burn your skin.  I'm not sure how familiar you are with these big cookers, but I have found that no matter what I do to start any of my smokers, just short of use a torch, it always takes me about an hour to get it up to cooking temp.  When they say low and slow, they're not just taking about the cooking part!

 

I'm not sure but you also might observe some silicon drip on your firebox handle.

 

Judging by the lack of burn marks on the paint of the main cooking chamber door, I also see a potential for condensation to drip out of your main cooking door.  After you have used your cooker a few times and it is well seasoned, you will notice on start up that there is black fluid dripping out of the main chamber door.  This will start when the cooker reaches about 150-160*.  It will last until you hit 212* when you hit the flash point for steam and it will just go out the stack.  To prevent having to clean this up every time you start it, you could weld a piece of flat stock at an angle near the bottom edge of the main cooking chamber door.  This will cause the condensation to drip back in the cooker and not out the door.  As previously mentioned, be sure to only weld a little at a time on this to prevent warping the door.


Thanks for the comments subvet. I realize the handle is too close. It was a temporary solution to get me through the next few weeks. I figured I would be wearing welding gloves while working this thing anyway. I was anticipating the silicone melting off of the firebox latch but after burning it in it was only soft. I will try to pull it off then. I did have some of that black fluid drip out of the bottom of the door onto the firebox. What is that? Its kinda nasty. Will I still need to add some flat stock once the door trim and gasket are added. I'm guessing so.

 

Again, thanks for the feedback!

 


Edited by gmasterpfautz - 12/11/11 at 8:42am
post #169 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmasterpfautz View Post


Thanks for the comments subvet. I realize the handle is too close. It was a temporary solution to get me through the next few weeks. I figured I would be wearing welding gloves while working this thing anyway. I was anticipating the silicone melting off of the firebox latch but after burning it in it was only soft. I will try to pull it off then. I did have some of that black fluid drip out of the bottom of the door onto the firebox. What is that? Its kinda nasty. Will I still need to add some flat stock once the door trim and gasket are added. I'm guessing so.

 

Again, thanks for the feedback!

 


I believe that "black fluid" that dripped out and is "kinda nasty" is Creosote which is probably one of the reasons that subvet suggested you don't build anymore fires that big in the main chamber. Creosote will coat the inside of smoker and then, when it drys, eventually flakes and peels off and falls on your food.Not to mention gumming everything else that move/slide up.

 

post #170 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmasterpfautz View Post


Thanks for the comments subvet. I realize the handle is too close. It was a temporary solution to get me through the next few weeks. I figured I would be wearing welding gloves while working this thing anyway. I was anticipating the silicone melting off of the firebox latch but after burning it in it was only soft. I will try to pull it off then. I did have some of that black fluid drip out of the bottom of the door onto the firebox. What is that? Its kinda nasty. Will I still need to add some flat stock once the door trim and gasket are added. I'm guessing so.

 

Again, thanks for the feedback!

 


I am surprised that it came out of your firebox.  But I guess that is the lowest point of your cooker.  I would still add the drip ledge to the main door though.  I am no chemist but I will take a guess at what is dripping out...there is moisture in the wood and I believe that in condenses in the main chamber.  Like DOMAPOI said, there is probably creosote in there too as well as the leftover residue from your previous cooks.  Since you don't have that, I would imagine that it is what I/we mentioned.

 

post #171 of 317


All in all still a great show to watch!  I expect the DIY channel to try to option this build for their next season.110.gif

post #172 of 317

This is going to be an interesting process for me.  I am looking forward to learning some stuff as you guys proceed with this build.

 

post #173 of 317

any update? still on track for the wedding in Junebeercheer.gif

post #174 of 317

Beautiful work! Excellent job on the post as well.

post #175 of 317

Love the smoker. The propane tank is the way to go. 1 question are you gonna put a water pan in it ?

post #176 of 317

Love following this thread and your progress. The amount of resources (AKA tools) that you have access to is super cool! If you want a fancy door pull I could probably send you something pretty sweet. I'm in the door hardware business and we get returns on occasion that we can give no credit for. Let me know if your interested via PM... Happy Smoking, Smokin - K

post #177 of 317

3_3_1_compass_design_options_C1ES_03012011.jpg

 

 

 

I have two of these 24" pulls that were mounted back to back but you could probably make your own thru bolt mounting for them. They have a ruberized black grip and are pretty dang cool... Smokin - K

post #178 of 317

Did you finish?  We would like to see how it turned out.

 

post #179 of 317
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin - K View Post

3_3_1_compass_design_options_C1ES_03012011.jpg

 

 

 

I have two of these 24" pulls that were mounted back to back but you could probably make your own thru bolt mounting for them. They have a ruberized black grip and are pretty dang cool... Smokin - K


Dang!  Those are WAY KOOL!

 

If he doesn't want them, I'd love to have them for my build.

 

PM me if you have anything else.

 

post #180 of 317

Looks like you have the hinge pin in upside down - you don't wan't to lose it. Either tack it or reverse it. Any pictures of the finished product yet?

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